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This a 1971 1800E D-jet setup installed in a 1967 122S. The system ran very well when it was still in the 1800E, but it giving me some grief after the transplant.
I've been able to start and run the car several times, however it take a while to get it going and requires a lot of throttle footwork to get it run up to a nice smooth "idle." It shakes like heck getting there. When I let off the throttle the engine dies quickly.
I've checked the MAP sensor of vacuum hose for leaks and it and the hose hole a good vacuum.
I'm only just getting into the D-Jet diagnosis procedure.
I have a slight suspicion that the #2 and #3 injectors may be the/part of the problem. When test running the car, I found the #2 and #3 plugs dry when the #1 and #4 plugs were wet with gas. However, when cranking with the sparks out, I appeared to get a good jet of atomized fuel from each cylinder (so much so I started a fire last time).
The valve lash has not been checked since the car was last drive. They might be out of adjustment and are probably worth a re-check for the shaking alone.
Static timing was set using the Kwas method, but w/o an idle, I can't check with the timing light.
Do any of these symptoms sound familiar?
Background
The engine features a new K&N air filter, new injectors seals, new intake and exhaust gaskets, an IPD valve cover, buna-nitril valve cover gasket, and a new Bosch Coil. There's a new dizzy cap and points, and the plug wires are new as of last year and saw little use until now. The system also has new FI-rated 5/6" fuel line to and from the fuel rail. The only wrinkle is that the Fuel rail and FPR are from a 73ES.
The engine was taken from a 1800E in early 2006 and the ports were plugged and the engine ran with SU carbs for approximately a year. Recently, I pulled the softplugs, installed the D-jet and converted the amazon to "run" with fuel injection.
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have you checked the throttle position switch? if not, just remove cover and see if the contact area is intact.if it is,then just clean with contact cleaner and a q-tip if needed. best of luck
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I found the spade connectors to the #2 temp sensor (by the aux air valve) were frayed and one broke off when I messed with it. I removed the spades from the connector block, dug out the old wiring, clipped the wires back to good insulation, installed some protective shrink tubing and then soldered the spades back on (I marked which was which before I removed them).
I was able to get a fairly quick start, rough running that would slowly respond to the throttle. I warmed the car up to temperature and tried to let it idle.
Again, it would die as soon as I let off the throttle.
I rechecked connectors, plugged the evap-intake nipple (the one to the manifold from the charcoal cannister) and tried to start the car again. I barely got it going, but it died quickly and could not be restarted.
I tried unplugging the cold start injector and found no improvement.
When it was idling it was rough and the whole engine wobbled quite a bit. I'm going to check the lifters here in a bit, but they were fine when I stopped driving the car.
Also, the parts store did not have any pressure gauges that went above 15 psi, so I've still been unable to check fuel pressure.
I'm still not sure what's going on. The aux air valve seems the most likely, but I'm unsure if it could be causing all this trouble...
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Dang.
Removed the aux air valve and found a huge glob of silicone on the sensor. Must have done that when I was running with carbs.
I cleaned that off and cleaned up and flushed out the aux air valve. I then applied a thin silicone seal to the head and re-installed the valve - correct side up this time.
While I was at it, I also removed and cleaned the lower trigger points, and re-oiled the dizzy. I also cleaned the lower trigger point-harness plug
I was rewarded with an almost immediate start... which died as soon as I tried to give it throttle. It would not fully, start and it got much worse when I gave the engine throttle. Now it won't start at all.
Pulling each plug, I found (again) that #1 and #4 were slick with gasoline and #2 and #3 were only slightly wet.
I confirmed that all four sparks are getting pulse and sparking and I pulled the cold start injector to check for fuel (it's squirting fuel).
I've re-set static timing and checked the points gap.
This is really confusing. The whole system worked flawlessly when it was in the 1800. I carefully pulled and stored the D-jet parts and ran the motor with carbs for 10-12 months, and then put all the d-jet parts back in last month.
I must have done something when it was in "carbs" mode. I really don't get why the car's not starting at all anymore...
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I re-adjusted my valve lash and did a quick compression test.
#1 - 190
#2 - 190
#3 - 170
#4 - 180
While doing the compression test, I noticed that there's NO air/fuel jet from ANY of the cylinders.
I checked the pump and pulled the supply line at the fuel rail. The pump is fine and there is a lot of fuel and fuel pressure in the rail.
I'm not sure what's happened, but my injectors are no longer firing.
Could cleaning the lower trigger points have caused the problem?
All I did was spray the contacts with some carb cleaner and then used a small brass "toothbrush" to clean the old corrosion. The trigger points only install one way, so I don't see what I could have done.
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"While doing the compression test, I noticed that there's NO air/fuel jet from ANY of the cylinders."
I know you're usually working the car by yourself, so I have to ask... how are you cranking the engine during the compression test? I'm typing this without looking up the wiring details, but depending on the setup, using a remote starter switch can bypass the starter signal to the ECU. IIRC, that signal must be present for the injectors to fire when engine speed is below 100 rpm.
--
Gary L - 1971 142E ITB racer, 73 1800ES, 02 S60 T5
BlueBrick Racing
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Good question, but I'm cranking the car with the normal ignition switch.
I *was* getting a good jet from my cylinders before I cleaned the contacts, now it's nothing... I don't get it.
I found a PDF copy of of Volvo FI Fault Tracing online (1800Pictures.se) and gave it a quick look. When I stop working 14 hour days, I'll try some more diagnosis as described by the manual... 'though I don't see anything for "Injectors Not Firing"
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Step 1: Check your fuel pressure with a gauge.
I have a high quality air pressure gauges for tyres that does double duty as a fuel pressure gauge when required.
If everything was working fine before & the only thing you changed was the fuel side of things when do the transplant, then look to the fuel side first before anything electrical.
Until you actually check fuel pressure, you will just spend hours taking shots in the dark.
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Its good advice to rule out fuel pressure, but I'm fairly sure this is electrical/sensor The Fuel pressure was sufficient to blow a not-quite-fully-torqued hose clamp on my cold start injector when idling. It was also sufficient to cause all the new clamps at the fuel pump to leak until I torqued them fully.
Of course I'm got a used FPR on there bought from a third party, so I shoudl confirm that it's working properly.
Regarding the electrical and fuel system - this was not a direct transplant. I ran the engine with carbs for nearly a year while the FI components were sitting in a box waiting for me to start this project.
I've also noticed that the two wires to the #2 Temp Sensor are a little frayed on the end. After unplugging and reconnecting this sensor, the car refused to start at all...
It may or may not matter, but my Aux Air valve seems to be installed upside-down...
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I would double check the "lower points" of the dizzy. If those points are not making contact correctly it can cause 2 of the injectors to fire improperly. You could also check if the cold start injector is staying on for some reason by pulling it & cranking it into a container. [You have a fire ext. that's now recharged right?] If it stays on it could be electrical or it could be stuck.
Mike M.
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I didn't have the use the extinguisher - although the fire was tad frightening...
I've checked the trigger points but it may be that there's some crud inside the dizzy - it sat on a shelf for a while and I changed out the breaker plate when I was trying out a hotspark unit.
I've not have a chance to give the car a try, but will hopefully do so over the weekend.
Thanks!
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Try checking the plug to the thermal enrichment sensor. If it is not making good contact it can cause fuel and ignition problems.(fifth injector doesn't fire to supply fast idle, or coil can over-heat or blow-up)I know because I had the same problems as you do.Btw the thermal timer is screwed into your water-neck.
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I'm not sure which sensor you mean. The 71 doesn't have the "thermo-timer" on the back of the block, but the air temp sensor (up in the nose) and the water temp sensor next to the aux air valve.
I think that this is the right tack. Most have directed me to that part of the motor...
I'll playing with it tomorrow and will post when I've tried some more tests.
Thanks!
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My memory (not known to be reliable, and I'm away from my documentation) is that D-Jetronic used trigger contacts in the distributor to fire the injectors two at a time. If your distributor is so equipped, make sure that the contacts are clean and functioning.
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How about swapping injector leads between cylinders to see if the problem follows the wire(s)?
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I've not tried that yet. I'm not positive that the 2 & 3 injectors are not firing. I spent some time today with my 68 instead and did not do anything other than start and run the D-jet car for a while. I pulled the temp sensors (air and water) and after reconnecting them, the car would not start anymore.
I noticed that the wires to the water temp sensor are in bad shape, but I'm not sure if that sensor alone could be causing all this trouble.
I have confirmed a solid regular pluse to all four spark plugs so I know I have good "fire"
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rolfe
on
Mon Sep 29 00:48 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Very likely that the coolant temperature sensor is a major cause of your problem. When it fails (or the wiring fails) the computer makes the mixture go way rich. The air temperature sensor will have much less, but similar effect. The car will run reasonably well with the AT disconnected, but not with the coolant sensor inoperative. Replacements are cheap and readily available (NAPA carries them).
Rolfe--'70E,'71E
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