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If anyone can help me solve this problem it be greatly appreciated.
I'm new to volvo and have a 1990 740 GL 291,565 miles with the Regina system.
Starts up idles fine, then after about 6 seconds, in park, it starts becoming very unstable. Sometimes seems like might be ok, so you go to drive and has horrible intermitant acceleration, as if you took your foot off the pedal completely for 1.5 seconds then smashed it again over and over.
About month ago, when just started randomly dying most of the time at slowing down to a stop, but couple times at 40mph and 60mph- just stalls. But always restarts after about 30seconds. Next it started having this idle problem, but then would stabilize and I''''d drive off and it would have the acceleration problem but it would eventually go away.
Now it is really undriveable, the idle is intermintantly jumping around between 500-1500rpms and if you try and drive, if does stabilize, it has jerky, hestitant, intermitant acceleration - usually will die at some point.
I had given it a tune up thinking just needed one, bought used with 289000miles
new timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley
new fuel filter and air filter
new distributor cap, rotor and sparks plugs - wires seem good
cleaned out the TB by removing it and replaced flame trap
Drove good to work - 10miles, but barely made it home (jerky acceleration problem) and died as i pulled into the drive way.
Question 1:
fuel related problem?, but not sure what - if the regulator or pump or relay were bad, the car wouldn't restart would it?
Question 2:
the Power Stage/coil pack (regina) - if that was faulty, the car wouldn't restart would it b/c the coil is part of the power stage?
Qustion 3:
Could be vacuum line leak?
I was wondering if anyone could tell me what lines these are in the pictures in the links below- thanks in advance- I've circled the items in red on the pictures
[ http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h18/fizban525/Volvo%201990%20740%20GL%20Regina/whatisit.jpg ]
[ http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h18/fizban525/Volvo%201990%20740%20GL%20Regina/vacuumline.jpg ]
Thank you very much in advance.
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Hey Paul,
I am pretty sure what you've got circled in the pictures is the vacuum line that goes to the map sensor. Its hard plastic about 1/8" or so? Check out the rubber pieces of hose that connect to it on the ends. Those will often crack and cause the engine to run very poorly. Keep your eyes open for other cracked rubber hoses. I think that you should pull out the fuel pump relay and re-solder it. Its located in the fuse box/relay tray behind the ashtray. Its the white relay on the right side towards the front of the car. Rules it out as a problem. You may want to replace your fuel pump, as its a known failure point on Regina equipped cars. They can be weak and cause the car to run lousy for a long time before failing. Check the pressure at the rail with a gauge if possible. If the pressure is much below 35 psi with the vacuum line to the pressure regulator attached, its likely worn. Take a look at the fuel pressure regulator. Remove the small vacuum line and check for fuel/odor. If you find either, the regulator is bad and needs to be replaced. Another thing to look for is the radio suppression relay. This has nothing to do with the radio, but supplies power to the fuel injectors. A bad one can cause the symptoms that you're describing. They are located under the hood, usually on or near the strut tower. Check out the fuel injection section of the FAQ for more details. If the fuel system checks out ok, then you may want to replace the coil/amplifier. A good place to get the fuel pump and coil/amp and other OE parts is Tasca Volvo (www.tascavovloparts.com). They sell at employee prices and ship to your door. No sales tax outside of MA.
Regards, Jon 'Uncle Olaf'
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I'm not sure what you have circled- It's not there in the 89 740.
But in the second photo, there's a vacuum hose missing on the air
intake bellows just before the throttle body.
Better check for vacuum leaks, old rubber vacuum hoses are trouble.
Have you checked /cleaned the air mass meter?
What do the plugs look like? (Avoid platinum plugs, NGK copper BP6ES is
better for the B230F)
Spend some time with the Brick FAQs there's plenty of good info for you.
Bill
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We're pretty sure there is no vacuum leaks. 2 days in a row, every start up and would idle crazy and I thought it be easier to fix. Well, now it's back to normal mostly... however, when you rev is in park up to like 1500 rpms, it has a bit of lag coming down when you remove your foot from the pedal, it stops for second about 1200 then 1000 then drop to about 750.
Additionally, I heard you could test the MAP sensor by unplugging it and it goes into limp mode, but not sure what i'm looking for, so i started it up after unplugging it and it seemed the same, so i plugged it back in (w/ the car off) and then removed fuse 1 and put it back in to clear check engine caused by unplugging the MAP sensor. Next, we started it back up with everything plugged in and i've driven it 16 or so miles since and hasn't had a problem. Can you tell anything from that?
Am I suppose to drive w/ it unplugged vs plugged in to test it or how.
What symptoms of which mode am I looking out for?
One last thing, is there just one Radio suppression relay? [http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/16757/nm/1988_1992_Volvo_740_8_Valve_Relay_Radio_Noise_Suppression_and_Cooling_Fan/category_id/172]
All my testing has been at night (cooler) no problems, I do face all the trouble when it does occur in the day. However, the very 1st time stalled, but didn't do it again for a month was on cool rainy evening, so I don't know.
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Hey Paul,
There is only one radio suppression relay, which is located under the hood, usually attached to a strut tower. There is also a fuel pump relay. That is located in the fuse/relay box located in the dash behind the ashtray. When these problems present themselves intermittently (especially in damp weather), its often because of dirty ground connections under the hood. Take them off one at a time, and clean them with fine sandpaper or a wire brush. Also check out the condition of the battery cables. Make sure they are clean and tight. There are ground connections on the right fender, above the battery, and several that attach to the engine and body. You may want to clean the idle air motor if you haven't done it already. Another thing to look at is the impulse sensor located towards the rear on the bellhousing. If the insulation on the wire is broken, it should be replaced. You may want to check the adjustment of the throttle body, its switch and the throttle linkage. These can cause the problems you're experiencing. Check out the FAQ on how to set the throttle body/switch and linkage.
Regards, Jon 'Uncle Olaf'
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The Cable the attaches to the battery is missing some of the rubber coating (about an 1 inch at most) right where it connects to the battery. I did have it in the Volvo shop before it was doing this and they didn't say anything about it, b/c normally they tell or replace some the most minor things - which I'm glad.
I tried to get to the fuel pump relay in the dash, but I couldn't figure out how to get the cigarette/tray piece out, there is one screw inside the housing a bit under it once you remove the panel to the fuses, but still didn't seem to pull out at all.
Btw, the car drove excellent today, about 25 miles total, except had two idle surges. One after start up about a minute passed and surged up for just a second. Then at a stop light, it dropped to 500rpms and surged up to 1200 about.
Impulse sensor, I'll have to check closer when I have more daylight. I'll let you know what I find out on the other stuff. I'm almost wondering if I should buy the 2 relays just see if that fixes it, if not then just wait for to get worse and take it in. Atm, the way it's so inconsistant they don't find anything, I still need to have someone check the FPR with a gauge
Is the idle motor on plastic electric box on the Throttle body?
Thanks for the help so far.
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Hey Paul,
The black thing mounted to the throttle body is the throttle switch. The idle air motor is the thing under the intake manifold with a hose from the air cleaner and a hose going into the intake manifold. Its not a bad idea to replace the relays. However, the fuel pump relay is very easy to solder if you are familiar with soldering. Check out the FAQ regarding the relays. You don't need to pull the fuse panel out if you remove the cigarette lighter/storage bin. Pull the lighter out. There is is plastic bezel that surrounds it: it pulls off with your fingers or a screwdriver. Now two screws will be exposed. Remove them and gently pull the storage bin out. The wires to the ashtray light and the cigarette lighter will be attached. Note their position. Now you should be able to reach in and get to anything you need. Its easier than it sounds.
Regards, Jon 'Uncle Olaf'
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You were right about the relay. It seems that the unstable idle after weeks of investigation is the Fuel sending unit. I'm told that one of the wires is broken... [ http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/14910/nm/1990_1992_Volvo_740_8_Valve_Fuel_Tank_Sending_Unit_Regina_Injection/category_id/302 ] about $455 + fuel feed line so looking at $555 not including any labor.
You know much about this? You can't just replace a wire can you?
Anyways, thanks for all help up to this point, I'll let you know the final results.
Forsyth
Also, do you know anything about the validity/quality and such of this website [ http://www.thevolvosite.com/740/volvo-740-fuel-system-and-related-parts.html# ] their price is about $50 less - I think it is OEM & New.
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Hey Paul,
Sorry to hear about the cost for that sending unit. I looked around, and the only fix I see done to sending units is a resistor to fix a non-working fuel gauge and replacing the pump. I'm not sure if the wire can be replaced. It would have to be fuel proof. I have not ordered from the volvosite, so I have no opinion about them. However, I have found a good place to get OEM Volvo parts is Tasca Volvo, (www.tascavolvoparts.com).
They charge employee prices to everyone and ship to your door. I have found them to be quite a bit cheaper on many OEM parts than FCP. Don't take this as bashing of FCP Groton. They are a great place. Give them a call or email them, since they don't have everything on their site. Calling them seems to work best.
Regards, Jon
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Actually that stub sticking out from the air intake is solid, it has no hole, I really don't know why it has it there at all.
My new spark plugs are the NGK from ipdusa.com
According to [ http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineFuelinjection.html#BoschvsRegina ]
Uses an intake air temperature sensor and a manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor, instead of the mass airflow meter.
Have any suggestion of the best way to clean these?
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