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I posted a few weeks back that my 83DL was stalling on hot days.
I then replaced the fuel relays, the old ones were rusty, but not
at the terminals.
Today while out in 95 degree temp. she stalled again while on the
freeway. I attempted to start her up again, she would idle bad and
when I put her in drive there was no power and then she would stall again.
I let her sit for about five minutes then she started right up again
as had been the case a few weeks back.
I drove her to a shady spot and parked her.
After a little rest of about 20 minutes she started right up and I drove home again, like nothing had happened as she had did a few weeks past.
Would my next best bet be to replace the coil?
Could the AMM have caused this problem?
While looking around the engine while she was resting I noticed that the
wires below the coil seem dry with some of the plastic coating cracking off
one of them.
Any and all advice would be appreciated.
Joseph
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Have you tried to isolate the problem between ignition and fuel when it stalls and won't start?
I suspect that you may have a problem with wiring insulation that is degrading.
Heat only makes it worse as far as causing a no start condition.
Check the coil wire for spark (at the coil) when it stalls.
If it's firing, unplug the coil wire at the distributor and see if you have spark there.
It could be as simple as a weak coil wire.
The heat will make a marginal set of plug wires get worse.
First thing is to find out if it's fuel or spark related.
steve
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Hi Steve,
I have not tried to isolate between ignition or fuel.
With checking the coil wire for spark, how would I do
this accurately.
The plug wires were installed by the previous owner within
two years.
How would I check if there is no fuel getting to the engine?
I understand that my wiring insulation sucks and I also need
to get into that soon.
Thanks for your help,
Joseph
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After reading your original post again, I have a suggestion.
Try cleaning the fuse terminals that go to the fuel pumps (numbers 5 and 7 from the top..I think).
steve
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I will clean the fuses and the contacts, thanks for the idea.
Last time I was in the fuses was last week and they looked great.
But, would the hot weather effect or change the fuse contact
even if they were dirty.
Well yesterday when I went to re-park the car in the driveway I
was listening closely and noticed that one of the fuel pumps is
humming.......I am gonna guess that a humming pump is going soon
and that my be my problem.
any othter pumps humming out there.....
Thanks,
Joseph
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Some posters seem unaware of the different FI systems used thru the '80's.
Your LH 2.0 has the somewhat infamous 25 amp blade fuse near the ignition coil.
The smaller wire connecting that fuse to the Battery + terminal is also a suspect.
A lesser known fuse culprit is #13 (possibly #14. It changed in late '83 or '84).
Poor contact at that fuse will kill the Fuel relay. And it can be intermittent.
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Hi Lucid,
Since the car first stalled in April on a HOT day I have
put in a new 25amp fuse and holder because the previous
one was rusty and falling apart.
I will check fuse 13 and 14 to make sure they are tight
and clean.
Could HOT weather cause a fuse problem?
I tend to think it is either the wiring harness or the coil.
But, last night I was moving the car and noticed that the fuel
pump is humming and that my be my problem.
Thanks,
Joseph
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Just another thought....Does this stalling problem occur when your fuel tank is less than half full?
If your in-tank pump is defective (or not running), it will put extra load on the Main pump.
Usually the Main pump will keep the car running in this situation, but with the weather being so warm, it's possible that the Main pump is cavitating.....not sucking the fuel from the tank.
This occurs because the vapor pressure of the gasoline gets lower as the fuel gets warmer.
At some point on the temperature scale, the fuel will actually boil in the suction line, and no fuel will reach the pump.
When you let it cool off for a few minutes, it may be able to suck liquid until it heats up again.
The more fuel in the tank, the less work the main pump has to do to prime itself....this with the in-tank pump not running.
Just a thought
steve
ps....If it's the main pump that you hear humming loudly, that's a sure sign that the in-tank pump is not operating.
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Steve,
This does occur when the tank if less than half.
The humming is going to have me put in a new intank
pump, before I burn out the main pump.
I will probably do this next week.
Wish me luck.
Thank you all for your help.
Joseph in New Mexico
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Be sure to check for voltage at the in-tank pump connection before you buy a new pump.
Also check the ground connection.
It could be a problem in the wiring, fuse or relay.
You may save yourself some time and $$$.
steve
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I see you referring to Lucid, but his posts are not showing up on my screen....what's up with this?
steve
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Hi Steve,
They show up for me here OK, ever since I jumped in about the fuse numbers.
I have no idea why they don't show for you.
Bruce
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"I have put in a new 25amp fuse and holder because the previous
one was rusty and falling apart."
If you just cut and spliced in the new holder, you could have missed some bad wires at the battery + terminal. That's a known trouble spot, where over time corrosion can ruin the wiring inside the red covering.
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Lucid,
Hey you think of everything......I will check that
tonight....when the temp. falls under 85 degrees.
thanks.
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Lucid,
Hey you think of everything......I will check that
tonight....when the temp. falls under 85 degrees.
thanks.
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I just read elsewhere that the air flap inside the air filter box
might be stuck open on the hot side allowing too much hot air into the AMM and
causing it to have issues. Also that a lot of people in warm climates remove the hose that feeds it for this reason.
Joseph in New Mexico
It was 95 degrees here today when my 240 was stalling.
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Removing the thermostat in the air box (air flap) worked for me last summer. My car would stall while sitting in line at the bank across town, almost every visit too. The tellers pretty much just expected it to happen. I tore it out in the bank parking lot. Almost immediate results. I got more noticeable results cleaning my throttle body.
I plugged up the approx 2" inlet with a rubber cap and worm gear clamp found in the pvc isle in home depot, and I also removed the reducing end piece of the snorkel behind the grill. Don't be tempted with the idea of ramming cold air into the box using the shopvac hoses and attachments you might pass on the way too the caps, it doesn't work : )
Just curious, how does she fare when you put her in reverse after driving a while?
My '89 (LH 2.4) would puke out almost every time if I didn't give her a reckless dose of the accelerator pedal. This occurred even after removing the air box thermostat. Cleaning the throttle body and tightening every hose in the intake system a couple months ago fixed that.
Good luck,
Justin
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Hi Justin,
Thanks for the reply to my post.
When your car stalled did it start right back up or did she need a rest?
I don't have any problems with reverse at any time, I am glad you fixed
yours.
When you cleaned your throttle body, how did you go about that?
Is that explained in the Bentley Book.
Thanks for your help,
Joseph
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Joseph,
IPDusa.com sells a kit for cleaning the throttle body, comes with a can of throttle body cleaner, a brush, and a new gasket. I love IPD, but skip the kit, just get a new gasket and a can of throttle body cleaner. I brought up IPD because they have a some pretty good instructions on how to do it.
http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/sku_files/6158_INST.PDF
Sorry that I suck at html, but that link will bring you to their instructions pdf file.
Good luck, and I hope it works for you as well as is it did for me. Make sure all of your intake hoses are tight, especially the hoses involved with the idle air control valve.
Justin
P.S: After my she would stall, she would start back up, but would only run if I gave her lots of throttle.
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I had the same problem with my 740 Ti today. I posted on the 700 boards you may want to see if anyone responds to my post.
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1292774/740/760/780/740_turbo_stalled_60mph_start_cooled_started.html
Good luck. I'll be watching your post.
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Hey Joseph, Remember my car is a 740 Turbo but I know we have been following each others threads since our car proplems were so similar.
After changning the fuel filter and the external fuel pump I noticed that the replacement fuel pump had a similar whining sound to the old one...not the purring sound it normally has. At the advice of others I went ahead and changed the power stage chip (sinced I got it for free) that didn't help. I changed the in tank fuel pump and added a new strainer. I haven't had time to test the car in depth but the whining sound from the external fuel pump is gone and the car is starting and driving with out incident. Hopefully, no more surprises on the highway.
Good luck!
Chad
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