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after hearing about the great engineering of the 240's i bought one but after attemping to remove the flame trap i have to question "great engineering". after getting my hand stuck i gave up to try another day. i have read about a relocation kit but believe this is for earlier models only, please correct me if i'm wrong and if so where can i get one. has anyone come up with a home made relocation kit for the 1990+ 240's or some good tips on how to get the job done without pulling intake off? there has got to be a better way.
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RCA
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Stupid me, after re-reading some posts, and the new IPD catalogue for bricks, I finally realized that my 88240 had the new and improved and re-located flame trap! I popped it off, sloshed it around in solvent, blew it out with compressed air, just like new, popped it back in.
It looked like a PO had tried to take it apart at some time. Ain't life great? Gratitude is the beginning of happiness. Thank-you very much.
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Straighten out a paper clip (leave one bend so you don't lose the whole thing down the intake) and use it to clean the orfice where the small vacuum hose goes from the flame trap holder to the intake manifold. This orfice tube is brass, small, and has a smaller hole down the center. Just root out the hole with the paper clip tool, and reconnect the hose. You won't believe how well the system works when all the parts are clean and clear.
Bill
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The flame trap on your 1991 245 should be no problem to service. It sits atop a tube that is just above the intake manifold. The early version is the hand trap, since it is below the intake manifold just atop the oil seperator. All yo should have to do is to remove the hose that attaches just before the throttle body and to the flame trap holder, and remove the flame trap. It's a 5 minute or less job. I have not a clue what you are trying to remove.
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Those who beat their swords into plowshares will surely plow for those who did not.
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What Bill said. You're probably just following directions for servicing an older 240's flame trap and don't see your flame trap sitting right there on top.
It can still take a few minutes of fumbling on a later 240, but it surely doesn't require removing anything.
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'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, fully converted to poly bushings, HD springs front, wagon springs rear.
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you fellows are right, i had read some post about the difficulty of cleaning flame trap and was searching (feeling) for it under the intake but have found it now. thanks. this is my first volvo and much to learn.
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Anyone can design something but it takes a genius to make it simple.
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Even with the better location, It still is a bit tough. Kind of buried under the fuel Rail and between the Intake .
Do yourself a favor, Buy a new flametrap and flametrap holder. This way you pull one off the engine, put the new one on, Holder and all. The little nipple on these holders get brittle and break so having a good one ready to go works best.
After the car is set, take the 'old' trap in the garage and clean the goop out of the holes, blow through the small nipple to make sure it's clear, then put it away for the next time.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Ditto what Tony said: Even on the newer 240's, it's not a whole lot of fun getting the top off of the flame trap doohicky. I hate that thing! :-)
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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It would be very easy to get a longer hose for the Oil Box up to the Holder BUT I worry that locating the Flame trap a bit Higher then the Head might have some negative results. I think it was placed down low for a reason.
Anyone have any thoughts?
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Since I should perform this service, I too looked at the gordian knot to left side of my engine, 88240/M47. Shocking to say the least. With a flashlight I can see virtually nothing. Looks like the entire intake up to and including the throttle body will have to come out and then maybe I can get my hands on that flame trap. Could take all morning.
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I was able to reach mine by removing the idle air controller. Then I installed the relocation kit from IPD. My old one had been "serviced" by Volvo for years but it was completely clogged up. It didn't look like it had been touched in a very long time.
Not sure if removing the IAC only works as well on the '88 as on the '86.
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1986 Volvo 245
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The 1986 244 had the same flame trap set-up as my 1979 and younger, the hand trap. I pull the dizzy cap and stuff a hand in there.
My 1988 has the "high level" flame trap. WOW! 30 second service, if all works OK, i.e. no busted hoses or such.
I did see that the parts which make the '88 high level setup, will work in the 1986, except for the space between intake rail #3 and #4. The old style engines have the large main harness going down to below the manifold through that space, and I don't know if the "S" hose will fit. Parts needed are oil separator box, "S" hose, trap holder, hose from trap to accordion air hose.
If you drive your '86 a lot, the change would be worth it IMHO.
Another was to make the FT service easy is to run synthetic engine oil. No varnish and what-all that glops up the trap. It stays clean.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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The Flame Trap relocation kit from IPD uses a straight hose that is about 9" long. It also comes with a new flame trap holder that is not angled as is the original. You get the hook up hoses to the Air intake pipe, and the vacuum trigger hose that goes to the metered orfice in the intake manifold. If you insert a 3/8" dowell into the oil seperator box, and slide the new flame trap hose down over the dowell, then it is an easy install. Finish up by installing the flame trap holder, the flame trap and the hoses, and you are finished.
Bill
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That is the very reason that I stopped taking Helga to the local Dealer for service. I don't think that the flame trap had been touched for 70,000 miles. It had to start puking oil for me to realize that I had been paying for unreceived service for all those years. I recently installed the flame trap relocation kit from IPD and now it only takes me a couple of minutes to do what used to take over 30 minutes to do.
Bill
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Those who beat their swords into plowshares will surely plow for those who did not.
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Hi vrollvo -
As I read this thread now, the response from stickbuilder is a complete answer. It should help you, too.
Using a flashlight - good idea. Often you can see more clearly using a flashlight after sundown.
Under the intake manifold you should easily see the large black box which is the oil separator box. Upward from its top is a vacuum hose, 1/2-inch diameter or so, and on top of that is the housing of the flame trap.
Now look above the intake manifold. Look between intake rails #3 and #4. There you should see a large hose which goes over towards the power brake booster, then down to a connection to the accordion air intake hose. At the intake manifold end that hose can be lifted straight up, revealing the flame trap.
Before embarking on flame trap service I recommend having on hand a new flame trap and housing, and "S" hose, as these components often are clogged enough to be easiest cleared by soaking. The small diameter hose, unlike the other items, can be purchased at any parts house. Get mopre than you need, it's cheap.
Also clean out the fitting on the intake manifold where that little hose connects. If it's clogged the PCV system won't work when the engine it at idle.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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