Hi all, since I can't find any specific details about what the alternator upgrade entails on Ron's site, I'd like to ask some of your experiences on the upgrade.

My main concern is about a difference in pulley and belt sizing with the new alternator. Do any of you have information on this? Also, I assume the AC Delco alternator I need is a common 12 o'clock model, not some other variation of the 10/12si - am I correct?

I just graduated high school and got some extra cash, I'd like to put it into some auxiliary driving lights but need to ditch my generator first.

Thanks

Howdy Moloko,

Send an email directly to Ron. I have purchased a couple of items from him and he does answer emails. Put something in the title of the email that he can recognize so it doesn't get passed over as spam. "Alternator upgrade" ought to work OK.

I would recommend one upgrade besides the alternator before you add driving lights; the SWEM brake light kit. It is a major safety enhancement over the aged hydraulic pressure brake light switch.

There are several ways to add driving lights (on the switching side, that is). What ever means you use to switch the lights ON, be sure to run a dedicated fused circuit through the relay(s) to power the lights.

Congratulations on graduating. A major milestone passed. What are your plans for the future?

--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man.

I've already gotten the brake light switch upgrade kit - a huuuuuge improvement over stock for 20 mins of work and $34. Thanks for the recommendation about the email, I'll try it but I know he can be slow to reply.

As for future plans, I'm going to the University of California Santa Cruz in the fall to hopefully study some course of science or engineering. I'd prefer mechanical, but since that major isn't offered, it may just have to be electrical or computer engineering. (not that I really have a problem with those...) I've also been able to find a summer job around where I live at a shop to get some experience and do some work (on my own car, heh) but nobody is really looking, especially for an 18 year old.

Say, here's an unrelated question - I've noticed that certain parts of my car are SAE and others metric. I hope this isn't just because of the previous owner, is there a guide to which is which? I think I remember the castle nuts on tie rod ends being 17mm but I'm not totally sure. I recognize a lot of stuff on the body is standard.

Edit: Actually it's all standard isn't it and the tire rod end probably was 3/4" and I was using an analogous 19mm socket.

There is a very subtle difference between the British Standard (BS) series thread and the Unified National (UN) series of threads. The internal angle of the BS threads is 55 degrees and that of the UN threads is 60 degrees.

The VAST majority of the threads on the Amazon are Unified, a joint US-British
standard in effect since about 1960s. What used to be known as "SAE" is correctly
identified as UNF (Unified Fine) and the Old US Standard are UNC, Unified Coarse.
They are completely interchangeable with older US specifications and mostly
interchangeable with the British Standard Coarse Whitworth threads, except for
½", where the Brits formerly used 12 threads/inch and the US and UNC use 13.
There are some UNS (formerly National Special) threads) which are used on guns
and other things where the UNC and UNF threads don't meet the need.

I'd recommend that you bite the bullet and get a micrometer and a thread pitch
gauge. Don't have to be expensive and you can usually pick up micrometers fairly
cheaply in pawnshops. These items will help you get a good grip on threads that
will be worth a lot to you in both theoretical(educational) and practical (dirty-hands) pursuits.
In about 40 years as a metallurgist, welding engineer, test engineer, as well as
a fixer of old Volvos, I've come across a LOT of engineers, especially from other
countries, who graduated from engineering schools without a SINGLE shop class of
any kind, including an electrical engineer who graduated with honors from the University of Madrid who borrowed and extension cord and returned it with the plug
cut off. I suggested that he should fix it before he returned it, as it was like new
when he borrowed it. He told me that he did not know how to fix it. (!!!??)
It's just plain SCARY!! No wonder they like US engineers in foreign countries!
We know how to DO STUFF!!
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Cody-

looks like you and I have a lot in common...

I grew up in the Northbay (Sonoma) & started @ UCSC in 2000. I too wanted to be a mechanical engineer, but as you know, it's not offered.

The path I followed, and something I highly recommend, is called the "3/2 Program."

you can try one of these results for more info:
http://www.google.com/search?q=ucsc+3%2F2+program

but basically, the gist of it is:

since UCSC doesn't offer engineering in anything besides electrical & computer science, they've partnered with UC Berkeley to offer kids the chance to pursue these studies.

The end result is a 5 year, dual-degree program (3 @ SC, 2 @ Cal). You pick one B.A. to earn @ UCSC (I picked Environmental Studies), and one engineering degree from UCB (I did Mechanical). The UCB degree CAN'T be electrical or some form of Computer Science and Engineering, as that defeats the whole point of the program.

With my grades coming out of high school I never would have been admitted to Berkeley. But as a 3/2 student, the admission criteria was a lot more attainable.

If it's something you think you'd be interested in I recommend reading up on it right away and getting involved. It's a small program and very fast paced. It's not something you can decide after a year that you want to do. Normally you're supposed to be admitted to UCSC with "3/2" as your declared major, but I personally know at least one person who joined the program during her second semester. There should be a coordinator at UCSC who you'll need to speak with. Support on the Berkeley side is minimal.

I'd be happy to discuss further, off board. If you think you might be interested in seeing the life of a mechanical engineer, I can also arrange to show you around my workplace. I'm work as an Automation Engineer at a plastic injection molding factory in Petaluma. We make 3 million plastic parts per day.

Shoot me an email if you like.

Venus Happ
venus.l.h (at) gmail (dot) com

(Like Shannon DeWolff, I add go by "Mr." because my first name "misleads folks on the WWW")

Thanks for that awesome post! I have looked into the 3/2 program, as my grades are not "cal material" but I haven't been able to decide on whether I want to commit to it yet. I still have about 2 months before classes begin - and most are all filled already! I hope I can still get into the ones I need for a program like that. Also weird is that I live in the North Bay! (West Marin) I took my 122s out to Sears Point Racetrack up in Sonoma last year for some drag racing and got a *ahem* 21 second quarter mile at 63 mph... Heh. I was tempted to treat myself and fill up on race fuel, but at $7 a gallon it was a bit much.

Thanks Ron for the info about pulley sizes, I'm more worried about the width/pitch of the v-belt though. Is it likely that the pulley on the alternator will be "close enough" to the one on the engine?

Also, thanks to everyone else giving info about the sizing. I think the erroneous mention of the car being primarily metric in my Haynes manual must have thrown me off a while ago.

Moloko;

Alt Kit details can be found at: http://www.sw-em.com/altkit.htm The pulleys on the alts are sized for the lower RPMs of V8s, but will work out just fine for the somewhat higher RPMs of our fours.

I will usually answer e-mails as soon as I see them (unless the spam filter, which is set pretty tight, eats them...that's why content of subject line is important)...sometimes, filling an order can take time...sometimes, kits go out pretty quick...depends on what items I have pre-made-up...

As a rule, Amazons are SAE, with the Bosch delivered, and some of the brake items pieces being metric. If you buy a $100 "Craftsperson" special toolset and add on a few special pieces (like for brake tubing, and a 1/2" drive 1 1/4" for the drum-nuts, etc. as need arises) you should be fine...a couple of extra 1/2 X 9/16"s can't hurt...

As a young man just getting started in life, you already have a headstart being a hands-on guy repairing and upgrading (and taking the time to understand how things work!) your own vintage vehicle....add to that maybe some more theoretical schoolin' and a positive, get-it-done-attitude, you will be a very desirable package for any employer! Just never quit learning, and I expect you'll do alright!

Cheers

As a rule, Amazons are SAE, with the Bosch delivered, and some of the brake items pieces being metric.

And just for S&G, the carbs have Whitworth-sized fasteners. Sometimes an SAE or Metric will fit, but if you get into serious teardown, Moss Motors sells Whitworth toolsets specifically for SUs

Howdy,

Your car does have a mix of metric and standard fasteners. Mostly standard. But the metric fasteners are hidden like Easter eggs. See the current post concerning temperature gauges in the 120-130 section. Eric outlines some of the metric fasteners you will encounter.

If you want an engineering degree in one of the automotive technologies, Clemson has a fine program. Also, when you get to school in California, find the Formula SAE group. Build a race car and earn credit doing it; how much more fun can an education get? ;-)
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man. ;-)

I'd toss in my vote for mix and match fasteners. In general, they are all SAE, but there are a few spots that are not. Of those not mentioned I would include the brake caliper mounting plates (M12 - 1.5 or whatever the fine pitch is). Get a good set of SAE fractional and Metric wrenches...what am I saying get SEVERAL sets of each.

One last point...get the education you want, not what is offered. You won't regret that decision.

Craig