Hi,

My 740 turbo and I have been playing heck for glory looking for her misfire. I may finally have taken care of it... what is a standard 0-60 time for the turbo so I can kind of compare?

Also, what the heck happened to my car? Whenever I switch on the high beams now, the engine dies, doesn't matter if it's at idle or while driving... VERY VERY odd.. no?

Thanks for any help!
EG Deaile

Okay, misfire still there, that's okay, I'm narrowing in on it.

The bright lights killing the engine had to do with a connector to a part of the AC system I had on backwards. Seems to be all right now (although my AC system still doesn't have a belt on it yet).

Thanks for all the help!

E.G. Deaile

The problem with the engine quitting when you turn on the lights probably has to do with a bad ground connection. The engine miss could also have to do with a bad ground. On the drivers side of the car just behind the headlight, on the inner fender, there is a ground block. Make sure the block is grounded well as we and make sure the terminals hooked to it are clean and tight.

Jimo

What voltage to you see at the battery with the car off/car on/hi and low beams

I have no idea. Sorry to tell you that.
The reported time for an 89 volvo was 6.7 seconds, but I have a 90 and have never seen under 8.9 timed with my cell phone... as accurate as you want to call that.

I would start checking things like power to the coil and fuel pumps with the highs on vs. off. See if it will start with them on.

Post back and I'll give you a guess... :/
-Will
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

hello Will
where was it reported this car had 0-60 time of 6.7?
a highly modded turbo can do that but never a stock setup.
your 8.9 is about right.
thanks
mike

Hmmmm, i had a similar problem. My car wouldn't start unless I turned on the right directional. As soon as I turned the flasher off, my car would kill. I fixed it by tracing electrical currents throughout the car.
I traced current from the fuel pump to the relay, that was fine. Then, from the fuse box to the fuel pump. That was broken. So then, I then physically checked the wires corresponding from the fuel pump on the fuse box, back to the fuel pump. There is a band of wires taped up under the floorboards all the way back. If salt water from wintertime or any kind of water, gets through there, you'll find what I found. Fused together, corroded, shorting wires, grounded to the body and other wires.
I had to clip, re-solder and seal properly many wires, including the culprit fuel pump. The only bad thing is ripping up the rug and putting everything back together when you are done. But, I found from directly under the driver's side floor mat to the left rear wheel well (wagon) it was all munched up. Needless to say this fixed many problems, from features on the hatchback, to my cruise control.
So, it could be wires messing up somewhere, or a bad headlamp switch. Unless you fault check what is happening when the brights get turned on, or what stops working when you engage that switch, you won't know where to look for the solution.
Get a broad idea by testing terminals on the fuse box back to where the component in question receives power. There should be little resistance lost. If there is a lot of power missing or none at all, it could be wires somewhere or a relay that meets along the way. That's what I found out. Not entirely fun, but it had to be done. Saved lots of $$$ by doing it myself, too. Good luck!
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual