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Well the Volvo kit is WAY out of my price range, so I'm putting together my system using my own sourced parts. I realize the original evaporator is the one component of the Volvo kit that you really need for cold temps, but as long as it works even weakly, I'm going to do this conversion using the original one. The Volvo kit also comes with a new hose from the compressor to the condenser. Can I use the original hose that has the muffler in it? What will it harm if I don't buy a new hose that eliminates that muffler? If I have to eliminate the muffler, does hose 3540018 screw right into my old original condenser without trouble? Also the instructions from Volvo say to remove the "factory fill" at the dryer. Is this the black plastic capped 90 degree angled jobbie? Do I just reroute the hose straight on to the dryer to eliminate that thing? What if I leave it in there? Are any of the aftermarket evaporators better than the original one in my car or is the one in the now super expensive kit the only one available that will make my A/C work well? I have a new dryer and expansion valve and expect to have to remove the evaporator to install the TXV. I am going to remove my compressor and drain it and refill with Ester oil and install R134 fittings on the back. Pull a vacuum and recharge. Thank for any and all info.
Charles
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So, use the hoses as is? Has anybody left the muffler in place and the black capped 90 degree angle piece at the dryer? I'm seriously thinking about getting the compressor to condenser hose to remove the muffler. Why? Only because the Volvo retrofit kit does this, but I don't know why exactly?
Charles
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OK Ya'll. I asked Dean at eEuroparts if the hose 3540018 that goes from the compressor to the condenser and eliminates the muffler in that hose is the same as the hose that comes in the Volvo R134 retrofit kit, and he was kind enough to answer my email and reply that it is. SO, I'm ordering it and one step closer to getting this stuff together and thought someone here may be interested in this info. So there it is.
Charles
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Hoses? We don't need no stinkin hoses!
I have an '85, 240 DL; retro'd to 134a, probably spent more money than you want to, but that is probably because I bought the tools to continually service it, and any others I come in contact with.
I flushed my system (purchased a moderately sophisticated tool with which to do so) to prep it for 134a, changed the accumulator and o-rings. Placed the new oil in, vacuumed, then recharged. I was given some insight to finalize the charging based on 2000 rpm.
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As the others have written, use the Enviro-Safe refrigerant. I like the Industrial 12a. My wife's car puts out 30ยบ F air with it. They even sell a can tap to use on their cans (which accept an R-134a style can tapper) to directly charge an R-12 system. It works very well.
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john
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yes, as the other poster suggested, try Envirosafe. I first converted to R134a and I was not satisfied. I just converted to Envirosafe and it is much better than the 134a, however still not ice cold, but it works well enough. I bought mine from http://autorefrigerants.com/. Yes it's a hydrocarbon and yes it's flammable but so is R134a and the gas in your tank. To me it's not a big deal. I know this has been debated a lot, but I have researched it a lot and that was my conclusion. Look for info on http://www.aircondition.com/
-Brian
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I have just about the same situation (89 240, needing A/C revived) and was wondering the same thing---what is the minimum I can get away with doing, to have a functional system with a decent life expectancy. I am willing to put up with not having it get ice cold, if I can avoid replacing the evaporator.
On my previous car, an 88 745, I did a quick and dirty conversion---evacuate and refill with a conversion kit---which worked OK for two summers, though it always seemed to have a slow leak. When it was fully charged, it was capable of getting cold enough to satisfy me. Last winter I crashed the car, and while dismantling it, I found no trace of black goo or other bad stuff in the A/C system.
I would like to do a better job on the 240, so I'm thinking; change all the O rings, dryer, expansion valve, and possibly swap the compressor for a 134a compressor I took off of a 740 that had been "properly" converted (assuming it will fit) What's the story on the hose that "needs to be replaced"?
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Why convert? The 134a is already scheduled for the same fate as r-12 as I understand it - and my albeit limited experience with a properly 134a retrofitted volvo factory kit installed in my 90 780 by the po is that when converted and working properly, it doesn't get cold enough if the ambient temp is above 85 F or so!
I have been using a r-12 replacement called enviro-safe for nearly ten years now in my cars without any problems at all - in fact the old systems work better with the replacement gas according to the manufacturer and my experience would confirm that claim. The gas costs about the same as 134a and is easy and forgiving for do it yourself. The process for the conversion is to screw a 134a type quick connect fitting on to the low pressure side schrader valve - then your ready to add gas and get cool!
Just google or ebay search for "enviro safe r12" and you'll find plenty of info.
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I'm going with R134 because: 1. It's legal 2. future servicing by a repair facility that will only touch R12 and R134 for legal and practical reasons 3. cost 4. on the shelf at WallyWorld or local Auto Parts store 5. it will cool well enough as I have it in my Alfa and it does fine. 6. my manifold gauges and vacuum pump are setup for R134 7. off the shelf adapters, etc. I am not interested in alternatives, just in the R134 because Volvo knows it is the correct thing to do for now. Maybe the cost on their kit went up because of a future change that is nearly here, or they just want to gouge us? Why is EVERYTHING all about lightening my wallet! :-( Has it gotten bad or what! Anybody have any answers on the hoses, etc?
Charles
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I agree with you 100% on your list of reasons to use 134a. In particular, I have to second your opinion number 5---it cooled just fine in an 88 745--- with outside temps in the 90s, and high humidity, it would take a while to cool the car down, but after 10-15 minutes, I would have to cut it back to the small snowflake, and the fan on position 2, or it would get TOO cold for me. The only difficulty I had was that it would slowly leak down---I did the conversion in May, and by September, it needed to be topped up. (1/4-1/3 can, maybe) It needed a shot again the following spring, and was good again all summer. I had a similar experience with a Mercedes 240D--cooling was adequate, but no more (I live in Northern Virginia, and it can get plenty hot and sticky here) ---it wouldn't put out ice cold air instantly, but it was a LOT better than running with the windows open---and it would slowly leak down. I hope to avoid the leakage problem by replacing all the O-rings when I do the 240.
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