Well I got the air bypass circuit for the idle adjusment screw plugged. Engine idles fine. Light throttle blips give good response. Full throttle blips result in the throttle valve sticking open.
When , when under the higher return spring forces with Wide Open Throttle. This shift over ,prevents the throttle valve from completely closing.
My question is....has anyone replaced the throttle shaft bushings before? I presume a good machine shop would have a selection of the proper bushings for the shaft?

THanks for any help

Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Well it was a busy day working with the intake manifold. I took off the manifold to replace it. After inspecting the throttle valve in front I could see the spindle screws were loose, causing the freeplay in the shaft. The bushings were fine.
I put the polished manifold back on, I still could not get the idle to drop below 1200 rpm.
My 71 intake manifold came with a primary and secondary return spring for the throttle valve. The 72 manifold I polished only had one coil return spring. I took my secondary spring from the 71 manifold and placed it on the 72 manifold. The added torque of the secondary spring was enough to close the throttle valve completely enough to shut off the motor. Finaly an airtight manifold. Adjustment of the throttle stop screw easily allowed idle tuning.
MS reads my manifold prssure as 54 kpa @ 800 rpms Seems rather high? Does anyone else have a reading from their B20E?
I went ahead and hooked up my MSII harness and tried my first start. NO SMILES ! I've more work to do.
I'll try to post some pics of my setup. Sort of messy with both the D-jet hardware and MSII stuff together.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc72/glass004/Summer2007055.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc72/glass004/Summer2007060.jpg
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

I'll try the pics again


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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Opps, wrong pics, here are the most recent with MSII set up. Practice makes perfect, maybe I'll get it right


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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Hi Joel...I would like to polish my intake manifold as you have. Can you tell me how you accomplished?? Thank you Ken

I started with med grit sandpaper until all surface blemishes are removed and the rough surface is smooth. During this phase I also used a powerful dremel tool with sanding drums. Repeat with fine grit sandpaper, then steel wool, then polising compound on dremmel cloth pads.
The nooks and crannies of the manifold make it difficlt to apply the abrasive effect without the tool marring the finish.
30 long and tedious hours were required.
Make sure that the manifold you use is fully functional, before investing your time in it. Good Luck
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Hi Joel.....Thank you for the detailed information..Ken

The shaft is the same size as the carb shaft so you can probably get 3/8" x 5/16" bushings
or bushing stock at a local old time hardware store and the hard part will be reaming the
holes concentrically. I have a 3/8" reamer with a fairly long 5/16" shank that I sharpened
on the back end and I can pull it through carbs and ream them that way so the shank works
as a pilot. Don't forget to get new seals (which are like the carb seals on the HIF6).
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

George,
That is exactly the info I needed. I have an old time machine shop in mind to ream the bushing holes concenctrically. I'll get on line and hunt down a source for the seals, (IPD..stealership?) It sure is nice having support like this when I am in uncharted waters for my skills.

thanks
Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

You can probably get the seals from Rhys in BC or Joe Curto in NY.
I'm wondering if just putting in new seals would do the job....
You rarely have to rebush the HIF6 carbs, just replace the seals so the same
may be true of the manifold. BUT unless your shaft is pristine, while you're
at it I'd strongly recommend a new throttle shaft also. Might save you some
grief in the long run. That'll probably have to come from a dealer, and if he
has the shaft he will also have the seals.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

George,
As I grip both ends of the shaft, it will slide side to side about 3/64 inch. It feels about as lose if I manipulate the shaft front to back. Does this sound like it would be just the seals? Would visual inspection once the shaft is out reveal if the bushings need replacement? Should I just get the seals first and see how it does?
Good Advice about the throttle shaft. I still have a manifold that is workable. I can wait for the stealership to order. I'll be looking up the part numbers tonight cuz my local dealer doen't have old parts listings. I've pulled off the intake manifold so much recently, its like a 30 min job now to replace
Interestingly, I've had a persistent problem running too rich on my D-jet system, since my old manifold's throttle valve started sticking a while back. My new wide band sensor verifies the problem. Could this leak caused by the failing seals so far forward in the intake manifold make a difference in the fuel air ratio responce of the D-jet?
Practice makes perfect,maybe I'll get it right soon.

Thanks
Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

TELL YOU WHAT: Those 35-year old fine-print, low-rez microfiches are pretty
tough reading for an old guy! But I think I finally made'em out, with some
cross-checking against the carb pages.
The shaft is p/n 460587-9, and the seals are p/n 419568-1, as best I can tell.
This is NOT warranted data! Hope it helps!
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

WOW !!
Big smile here.
Thanks Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

Joel, if you think it will help I'll yank the shafts out of the manifolds I have and send you the best one -- that may get you half way there.

I'll have to pull the old shaft out and inspect for wear, I going to pull the pretty polished manifold and put back on my old one. It had throttle shaft bushing wear as well, but not so it would cause the throttle to stick open. I am still hoping for MS this weekend, but the way problems are popping up, we will have to see.
I really appreciate the offer for the shafts.

Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102