Based on a 544, two 220's, and two 1800 restorations:

Follow the advice of the others with labeling and organizing things, don't forget a good marker and place the label inside the bag. (sharpie can get smudged off plastic when car chemicals are involved - ask me how I know).

Be very careful with all of your trim, especially around the windows - i have found a few cars that have been "repaired" in the past 40 years with nuts and bolts that don't take well to prying off.

While you are taking it apart, look close at all of the nuts and bolts - I drove a car home several hundred miles with home depot house bolts holding the front suspension together.

Before you purchase anything else, make sure your body is in solid enough shape and no other surprises - it is hard to resell parts and make your money back if you discover your body is too far gone.

From the photos, if you go forward, you should probably look at a solid donor car body, it will be cheaper than custom metal work unless you or a friend are handy with a torch and hammer.

Make a time and budget for the project, then double it twice more.

I raise my glass and toast you for taking on this project and keeping one more ol swede on the road. Keep the board informed on your progress, this is a great place of experts.

Keep 'em rolling
-Erik

-Erik

I can only get you half-way there with my experiences, but since the most recent one is from your former 65 and is only a couple weeks past.


Step One - prepare.
Get a big roll of masking tape and two or three of those clear plastic nut-n-bolt trays from Home Depot (you know the lidded ones with the moveable dividers cost about $3.00 stateside), get a big box of heavy duty feezer bags and a whole box of sharpies. A couple of 18 gallon plastic storage boxes and newspaper also helps.

As Mr. Happ says, take many pictures. I don;t think you need too many given the simplicity of the 120, but photos of wiring connections are critical!

Step Two - small stuff.
Remove the headlight trim rings and buckets. Remove and store the grills too if you are afraid of damaging them. Removing the buckets give you easier access to the nose-fender bolts. Remove the trim rings, signal lenses, and tail lenses covers/reflectors, etc...

Step Three - big stuff.
Remove the Hood, Fenders, and Nose first. It makes *everything* easier.
Put all those weirdo acme screws into the divider box and put a bit of tape on the lid and label that "section" of the box (if you choose).

Remove the front interior kickpanels to get access to the door keepers (two bolts each). Remove the front doors and discard (on second thought you should probably keep them...) Don;t take them apart unless you need to.

Once you have these five principal pieces off, the car will be infinitely easier to work on.

I always remove the front bodywork before an engine swap.


Step 4 -The rest of it.
Just work logically from there forward as your needs require. Considering the damage to your A-pillars, you will likely want to strip the dash and wiring harness to remove the windshield. I can't imagine how hard it would be to get a replacement to you out there....

Your headliner is toast, I think it is impossible to remove one without destroying it.

Be sure you box all the like nuts and bolts. I used two of those storage trays for ALL the bolts from your 65. Be sure you tag (with tape) and label the ends of *all* the wires from your harness. double-bag (label the inner bag) of anything too big for the tray box and too small to be easily identified. Bundle up the big stuff in paper, wrap and label it, then put it into the 18-gal storage boxes. (I used two of these for the bigger stuff)

After taking a 122 and an 1800 apart, I really value the logic and simplicity of the 120s. If is supposed to come off, it does - simple.

This whole process will give you an unprecedented sense of confidence about these cars.

Nothing new. Just what the others have said. Just wanted to emphasize how much you'll thank yourself later.

I did a full engine compartment disassemble, paint, and new engine in the last year.

Having all of the little nuts and bolts in different containers (tupperware, keg cups, baggies) with labels REALLY helped.

Taking LOTS of pictures from different angles before taking anything apart really helped.

There's probably nothing that couldn't eventually be resolved with help from this board, but that can be frustrating when it's 11pm on a Friday night, you've planned to work until 3am, and you can't figure out which whatchamacallit you use to attach the doodad to the thingamabob.

pictures. containers. labels.

I don't have any "official" information.

However, I have always approached disassemly projects (that have no instructions) by thinking of how it must have come down the assembly line when new. Assembly line workers don't have time to futz with things on the line so there must be a coordinated order how things go together without interference or damage to already installed parts. Just reverse that order.

Obviously this doesn't work for all components, but it has helped me think through things in the past.
--
'60 PV544, '68 122, '70 145, '84 Prelude, '86 745T, '06 MPV