Remember your car has K-Jet...only pre 1985 will have K-jet.
Any newer and you will have to swap the wire harness and convert the car to LH-EFI.

one of the benifit of this conversion is that there are many more available parts for LH cars nowadays. you can use engine parts from 7XX and 9XX series redblocks.

K-Jet is great...don't get me wrong, I have a 76 242dl and an 82 242glt, and love the simplicity.

but in the future I plan to do a LH-2.4 or Megasquirt, conversion to the 76.

I will stick with a volvo redblock...turbo'd of course.

The front coils/struts should be swapped out--I did a V8 (1963 Oldsmobile all aluminum 215--same weight as Volvo 4) in a 265. The front rode way too high until corrected. You're probably best off with a later B23/B230 and o'drive auto--and switching to a carb if AL regs/inspection aren't too strict. In NY cars get a rolling drum drive simulation (tough), over 20 years old get only an idle test-which the V8 passed--over 25, safety only. The 3-speed auto could work with the 4 but you'd need the proper bell housing and torque converter anyway. The stick shift trans is different in a number of ways (input shaft, shift extension, clutch lever actuation). You'll need the 4's radiator and front driveshaft, shift linkage, motor mounts and brackets. Find yourself a complete 240 to transfer parts from and scrap or sell the remainder when done--the aluminum motor and transmission (auto) and radiator can be scrapped separately at a higher rate than the bare body ($25 per hundred lbs for the "mixed aluminum" in my area--$8 for the tin). I happen to have a discontinued project -- 4 ('85 w/od auto) into a diesel 244 ('80) I'd sell cheap--but you're a bit far from Long Island. Good Luck.

"2X644" (264 changed into a 244) recollections:

Mine did indeed ride a bit high in the front, which made it a little more prone to scraping the tailpipe on steep driveway entrances. It looked a little odd but not enough to make me get around to changing the springs.

Frankenstein got an engine and transmission complete from an unfortunate friend's low mileage 245 wreck. IIRC this did involve changing at least the front portion of the driveline,

Recalibration of the tach was needed. Pretty easy to do; my tach (small style in middle of cluster) was equipped w/a potentiometer w/enough range to make the necessary adjustment.

Occasionally there were some small issues w/pollution inspections. VIN did not match the number of cylinders visible under hood. Fortunately I always ran into inspectors intelligent enough to understand that it would be easier for everybody if they concentrated on the tailpipe readings as opposed to getting all hung on number of pistons versus vehicle badge, etc.

My 264's body was very nice and so the swap was well worth the effort.