John,

Since I have seen your car (a Southern car), I doubt rust will be an issue. Going to the late model rubber seal is no problem whatsoever, windshield has the identical shape. I would not run the risk of removing the antenna or wipers as the wiper arms may be partially stripped already.

Finally, I only have three pieces of advice:

1: Put easily removable masking tape over the defroster and speaker vents on top of the dash. That way if the old glass crumbles during removal, the "glass dust" won't go down in the vents and cause a potential "eye problem" down the road.

2: There is a foam rubber "appearance gasket" at the base of the windshield where it meets up with the dash. I recommend covering it with clear plastic packing tape as the gasket is very easy to accidentally cut. If it does get cut, it doesn't create leaks or mechanical problems, just an appearance issue!

3: The new style windshields ship with the seal attached to them, this can cause kinks on the outer lip that will prevent them from sealing against the body properly... once again an appearance issue more than a leak issue. When the guy is done, if there are kinks visible , have him heat them up with a high powered hair dryer and then tape it down in that area. Then set the car in the sun or drive it in the sun as necessary for a day. Then remove the tape, the kinks and "puckers" should then be gone!

$205 is a great price BTW!

jorrell
--
92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

I had glass replaced in my 1992 a week ago. The glass had a spreading crack plus it was leaking above the fuses. My non hardening butyl patch almost sealed it. Since you mentioned metal trim, not all may apply to you but I just learned something from Stickbuilder’s post. He mentioned that his 93 had metal trim and could no longer use it. It is probably the same as the 92 but I never missed it since this was at least the second windshield replacement. The old glass did not have the Volvo logo.

I wanted new rubber trim and the shop called and confirmed the rubber is preinstalled on the glass. Judging by the old window, this is one tough adhesive. The outer perimeter of rubber just lies against the painted body.

Of course, if you want it done right, or to your standards, you have to do it yourself. I had already learned that they can never get the wiper arms in the correct location. I measured from a point on the blade to a point on the cowl vent and kept the blades nuts and notes in the garage rather than the back seat. I told the installers that there was a small leak at the driver’s window corner and let me look before the glass is installed. After the old glass was out, they pointed to dirty spot on the old butyl sealant. It was a just a bad prep by the previous installer. I looked at the prep work before the install and noticed that the paint was scratched to the metal in several places and they said that it gets touched up. This reminds me, I better check the touchup work. I did not see any drain holes below the glass.

The only issue I see now is that the width of the new rubber is slightly smaller then the old or more of the old butyl should have been removed to seat the window into the recess a little more. This resulted in some old butyl marks on the painted perimeter around the rubber. Never be a show car with that. It will take some time to remove it.

Just a note, This will vary by state but in NC, comprehensive is what I consider cheap, maybe 70 dollars per year with a 50 dollar deductible and among other things, it covers cracked windows, deer collisions and as long as you are not moving the car, parking lot collisions.

Tom

I had mine replaced last year. The Glass Company did not use the old style of gasket/weatherstrip. What they used is a new style of gasket, and it installs something like the new encapsulated windshields go in. It looks very nice, but I lost my ability to use the chrome trim. Still beats a leaking windshield.

Bill
--
Those who beat their swords into plowshares will surely plow for those who did not.

Hi John, When I had the windshield in teh 93 replaced, I had some POR 15 on hand once the old windshield was out to spread on any potential problem areas as the tech was prepping the new windshield. The tech didn't mind as long as I didn't slow him down. Can you share the glass company you're using? 205 is a competitive price!, Best of luck


Greg

93 Sedan, 92 wagon

So you are putting the New Rubber in your '89.

Let me know how that works out. I had a new windshield installed in my '89 and the Chrome with the little Rubber is just not happy after all these years. I was thinking of doing the 'New Gasket' approach next time. The Windshoeld opening shape is the same?
Did you purchase the Rubber yourself or is the Windshield installer bringing it?

Any info will be great.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Really, I wouldn't bother: all there is to worry about is that the surface under the glass is rust free, and the metal is sealed!

If there's rust, it must be fixed and primed. Similarly, if the metal is scraped or damaged under the glass it'll turn into a rusty mess eventually. I suppose all that matters is what happens when the old glass is off and before the new glass is installed.

-Ryan

--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club