I can't believe this: After I had painstakingly reinstalled the waterpump to fix a pinched upper gasket, I thought everything was well. No leaks nothing. Took the car out for various long drives, and hey, all good, or so I thought.

Today, coolant started to leak out of the connection to the rear metal pipe. Seemingly, that gasket is pinched as well. Why it's only started to leak only now I have no idea.

Here's my question: would you think it's possible to change/refit that small gasket to that pipe without removing the whole water pump? [I don't have a spare paper gasket for the pump, and I am just tired of having to remove the whole waterpump all over again!]

When I installed the pump, I remember the pipe not having much give at all.

Lend me your thoughts.

Thanks

Lucast

Lucast,

It’s not too difficult loosening the metal heater pipe so it’s worth a try (especially compared to re-installing the water pump on a four cylinder – YUK!).

The bracket for the pipe is located on the block under the exhaust manifold. Loosen the bolt and slide the pipe back. Remove the round gasket and make sure it wasn’t pinched. This is a common problem when no type of lubricant is used. If the gasket isn’t damaged, put some Vaseline on the gasket and both the water pump and pipe. This prevents the gasket from being pinched or rolled.

Also, check the bracket on the pipe where it bolts to the pump like Chris said to make sure it puts pressure on the rubber gasket when tightened.

I definitely understand you’re frustration. I think a lot of us have been there with these water pumps.

Michael
Melbourne, Fla

1985 740 460k (original motor)
1988 780 Coupe V6 190k
1989 780 Coupe V6 149k (parts car)
1992 745 197k

When I replaced my water pump and pinched the seal on the heater tube, (rear metal pipe) I tried for like an hour to get it apart without taking off the whole pump.
No dice.
I ended up having to re-clean the face of rtv, and all other parts and made double sure it wouldn't leak (it hasn't) by putting rtv on the pipe, the gasket on the pipe, and rtv on the outside of the gasket as a bit of lubricant and sealant for any irregularities in the pump housing. I also stuck the paper gasket to the pump housing so that everything was on the pump, and nothing but the bolts had to be aligned. It's a pain, but it gets easier with practice.... (did it 3 times in 2 days lol)

Good Luck.
-Will
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

I think there is enough room, if you undo the mounting of the tube to the Block to get that pipe out of the back of the pump.
Frustrating... I'd be ticked off too
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

I think Tony is correct ... seems to me I've also done this too. IMO it's a ridiculous design. My Scantech pump seal lasted 2 1/2yrs and 25K kilometers - just replacing now.
--
Big Swede: 1989 745T 234,000KM

"IMO it's a ridiculous design."

I agree, Swede.

I, a novice mechanic, replaced the water pump in my Ford 4.6L V8 with no trouble and zero leaks. No mushroom gasket, no heater tube.
--
1986 Volvo 245

"...No mushroom gasket, no heater tube..."

It does seem like an odd design. But I'll bet on a freezing cold morning (like in Sweden) you don't get cabin heat nearly as fast in the Ford V8 as you do in the Volvo.

You may be right, Chris. If I ever experience a freezing cold morning, I'll note the rapidity of cabin heat.

Bob, San Diego
--
1986 Volvo 245

Ah-ha, San Diego, you lucky devel. Well I can see why a high output heater wouldn't be at the top of your "Must Have Right Now" list. One of my best friends lives up by Balboa Park.

I agree. A little extra pain (a little assumes you've screwed it up before lol) for a nice feature. I'd say worth it.

Also, won't vaseline eat the rubber seals...???

-Will
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

Forgive me, I'm at work, and that blank post by "S" was me. :O

I wanted to mention that I put my gaskets on dry, using a Duralast pump, and have had no problems that I'm aware of (knock on wood!). The casting was a little rough. I used vaseline as a lube then putting the rubber gaskets on, and it seems to have helped. You might try that if RTV takes too long. Also, vaseline doesn't stick, it just seems to seal.

Ari

Here are a couple issues I've observed in the past with those things:

Some of the non-Volvo pumps have very rough castings, including the hole that the pipe slips into. Also the pipe itself tends to get rusty and pitted with old age where the seal slips on. A thin coating of RTV on both of these surfaces might help to fill the voids. I think it also helps the seal slip into the pump and not curl.

Another thing is that the litte bracket that's welded to the pipe and gets bolted to the back of the pump sometimes gets bent such that it is no longer pertruding from the pipe at a right angle. Consequently, when you snug down the bolt, it doesn't push the pipe deep enough into the pump.

I think you should be able to R&R the pipe without removing the whole pump. You may need to loosen whatever's holding the pipe at the back end of the engine.

Good luck!

Did you use RTV and pry up on the pump before tightening up the bolts?

I pried up on the pump and did use RTV on the main gasket, the upper seal, but dang, not on this little seal for the rear pipe.

Its a long shot, but you might try loosing the bolt to the pipe. Pull it back some and put some rtv there. Give it 24hrs before you try it..
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Didn't have a new paper gasket but I thought I'd go ahead and RTV it to death. I am sure I'll pay a big price when the time comes to change a pump.

Anyway, to cut a long story short - the heater pipe is such a tight fit that there's no way to fix the leak at the rear without removing the pump.

All good, no more leaks - I hope.

Thanks for the help guys.

Lucast

Hi Lucast,

Don't feel alone with water pump misery.
My first attempt resulted in a leaker too.
I'm sure that Casey Stengal would have a great way to explain
how people finally learn the knack to do something.

Bill

PS: I did switch to Black RTV, since it is the most oil resistant...
there's another "nugget of knowledge" :-)

One final water pump misery story. when I did my head gasket timing belt I also did the water pump (3 times) and it leaked. Turned out the heater pipe bracket and metal tube was pried out a little forward of the front of the block so when I installed the waterpump it did not mate flush with the block and water oozed out. I had to push the hard pipe backwards toward the firewall and then no leaks. I think when I pried the exhaust manifold off the head to remove the head I must have inadvertantly used the metal pipe for leverage shifting it 1/2- 3/4 inch on its bracket. I had thought the leak was a bad oring, a bad tube bushing seal, etc. Nope. Just a heater tube out of alignment. Take care not to bend the bracket as someone has noted

Ahhh Yesss. the Been THERE DONE THAT Syndrome...

A little over 25,000 miles ago I did a head gasket/ H2O pump/Timing belt replacement. Now, fast forward to the past few weeks, I've been getting a leak around the H2O pump upper O-ring and finally got fed up nursing it with refills on a regular basis. I got new gasket/O-rings and decided to "Just Do It"

Sooooo, drained fluids, removed H2O pump, cleaned mating surfaces, installed O-rings (greased with Vasoline to aid slipping) checked all fittings, levered up pump against head to better seat O-ring, tightened it all up, replaced fluids and Bingo Bango....started her up

She promptly leaded out the back of pump at heater hose....(%%@#$#%$)

Now, I sized up the situation and thought....maybe I can move the heater pipe....only took a brief time to realize...FAAAGEEETTAAABBBOOOUUUTTT IT!!

So off comes everything, recheck gaskets, EAAASSSEEEEE Heater pipe into back of H2O pump TAKING CARE NOT PINCH GASKET...reseat H20 pump, gently lever it up...tighten up bolts and nuts in cross rotational pattern gently snugging them up until the last bolt at the bottom lets out a tiny little 'SNAP' and I pull out a ratchet and socket with 1/2 a bolt sticking out of the end.....(^%%^#$#@%^$%) Oh CRAP!!

Now, here is where a story, that has so far twice not show signs of having a happy ending, takes a "TURN" for the better...No that turn for the better didn't take place until well after I'd removed the pump to find that a 1/8-1/4 piece of bolt was sticking out of the head....just enought for my mini vice-grips to grab hold of and gently back it out of the hole. PHEW!!!!

SOOOO, one more day's dealy and I was off to the auto parts store to get the replacement bolts (ALL OF THEM, THIS TIME!!! AND NEW NUTS JUST FOR THE HELL OF IT!!)

And now I've had the wonderful practice and experience of putting the same H20 pump on this car FOUR FRIGGING TIMES!!!!

Ahhhhh, but no more leaks. And I'm certain (without a shaddow of a doubt) that I am now able to R'n R a H20 pump on a 945 in record time!