I'm doing the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, belts, and last (but not least) the crankshaft seal + intermediate seal + camshaft seal.

I've heard about not marring the shafts with the tool used to remove the seal...and I've heard that if you don't get the seals in squarely, that they'll leak. Why am I replacing? Because I'm in there anyway. It's got 201k on it. Doesn't leak a drop...but what the heck.

Any last minute words of advice?
Cabbie

The seals were not leaking at all. I was chicken to mess with the seals, so I just did the timing belt + tensioner. While I was at it, I did the water pump, thermostat, and belts/hoses. If it ain't broke, don't fix it was the philosophy this time. I'm guessing they've been replaced before. We'll see, now won't we?

Cabbie

I would replace the seals. My '88 lost its fromt crank seal at 200k on the turnpike - the seal had lost its grip in its hole from old age and slid inward along the shaft. The fit of the timing cover was all that was limiting the oil flow.

Get a seal puller at an auto parts store -- about $10. Pops the seals right out without hurting the shaft.

I did my "front of engine job" on a '93 last summer: all three seals (although they didn't leak), timing belt, tensioner, water pump, fan clutch (Dave Barton's "Tropical" version, a.k.a. "Swamp Cooler"), and even all the accesssory bushings (for alternator, A/C and P/S), etc. -- everything I could think of in that area. It had 135K miles (newly acquired), and just switching to the synthetic I like.

To make things easy, I recommend removing the radiator (and shroud) -- it really opens up the area for working!

Anyway, besides using "the crank holding tool" from IPD and a large oil filter wrench to hold the belt pulleys, the only other tool I needed (besides torque wrenches, obviously) was the Griot's Garage set of picks -- they're teflon coated, so I wasn't afraid of scratching the shafts -- and they worked great.

Also, when reinstalling the new seals, I followed advice in the manuals and positioned them about 1-2 mm deeper so that they didn't sit on exactly the same surface as the previous set (this is counter to advice you've received in another response).

Finally, don't go cheap on the seals -- use the seals from your Volvo dealer (they're by far the best, I've been told on this forum). But if you do the water pump also, don't use Volvo's because their replacement is no longer HEPU but some other brand, so buy (only) HEPU from another source of your choice. I also used IPD's "poly" bushings for the alternator, etc.

Volvo seals are just Elrings aren't they? Last time I bought an overhaul kit Volvo wanted to charge a lot of money to put their sticker on a pack of Elring seals. Go direct if you can.
--
A smart bomb. The bomb teaches Shakespearean sonnets, ancient cuneiform, relativity, and the Tibetan language. It may know other things. It has no tolerance for rudeness, so ask nicely.

I am the fifth answer saying "If it aint broke (leaking) don't fix it!"

Are you running synthetic engine oil? Otherwise worried about leaks?

If you are too far into the project to back out, here's some tips.

Get three of the small seals. They are all the same P/N and if you tear up one you have saved a trip to the parts house for another. Put in the camshaft seal first, it is the easiest.

Remember to put grease under the lip of the seal, in where the spring is.

Be incredibly careful about not scratching a shaft. A small scratch will cause a leak, but - not to worry - with 120 to 180 minutes of sanding using strips of 400 grit emery paper you might get the scratch out. DAMHIK

Allow a half to 2/3 of a day for the job.

If there are no leaks to start with, the belts and their adjustments are the more important parts of the job. For belts, do them all. Good ones can be saved for emergency use.

Use latex gloves, have plenty on hand.

ACE Hardware sells a strap wrench that might hold the camshaft while you loosen the nut to remove it. Only $29.00 or so. Maybe you have a cheaper method?


Good Luck, and please post a report on how things went.

Bob

:>)

i too would leave well enough alone if they do not leak.

with that said this is the sort of seal driver to look for.

http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/7775.jpg

If the car has 200,000 miles on the seals, and they are not leaking, they probably have been replaced already. Don't stir up problems where none exist. Change the belt and the tensioner, and continue to march.

Bill
--
Those who beat their swords into plowshares will surely plow for those who did not.

If they are not leaking I would leave them alone. Dan

I'm not proud of how I get the old seals out, so I won't offer advice there. But getting the seals in squarely and at the right depth can be a bit daunting.

Bring your new seals to a good hardware store or Lowe's and head for the plumbing section. Try to find a PVC pipe coupling with an OD slightly smaller than your seal, and an ID slight larger. This becomes your installation tool.

Before removing the old seals, hold your hi-tech PVC seal installation tool up against the old seal in the engine, and mark the depth on the OD of the tool. That's your guide to how deep you should seat the new one.

Lastly, smear engine oil or grease on the ID and OD of the new seal before installing.
--
No one ever went broke underestimating the taste of the American public - H.L. Mencken