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According to "the bible", the tie rod end must be disconnected from the steering arm as an early step in removing the front coil springs and replacing the strut inserts. I don't have the "special press tool (Volvo tool no. 5043)". Any suggestions on a suitable replacement or other appropriate tool?
'83 245 GLT 280K miles, '90 760 GLT 220K mile.
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If you can't get it with one hammer use 2 on opposite sides of the arm the TR ends fits into. I little penetrating oil helps as well. Just clean it off before installing the new one.
Dan
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I need to replace the inner tie-rod boot. On passenger side
The tie rod came of the knuckle easier enough, but the inboard end is still stuck. Re fastened end to the knuckle, but cannot get it loose from inner tie rod.
Which way is it threaded, anyway?
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Probably just a bit of rust holding it on, try a little PB Blaster and try tightening it first to try breaking the bond. Use 2 wrenches so you are holding the inner tie rod while loosening the tie rod end.
Dan
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Finally got it loose- tried multiple wrenches, pipe through one for leverage, many applications of PB, but had to heat it with a torch to get it loose.
Now onto next issue- starts, runs fine for few minutes, then rougher and rougher, then stalls out.
CEL , 1-1-3 , have hit AMM with MAF cleane, but no difference., could that be contributing to problem?
Also have exhaust leak
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If you are getting OBD codes you must have at least an 89 240?
I just went through this on a 91 240 and it eventually turned out to be a poorly responding O2 sensor. With a volt meter check the response of the oxygen sensor, when it is warmed up it should cycle between .2 to .8 volts.
This is how a good and bad O2 sensor responded to voltage monitoring, The sensor in my 91 was acting good and bad intermittently, I am assuming I had connection problems.
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1617053/220/240/260/280/91_245_may_fixed.html
Dan
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Yes, it's a 92. Replaced the O2 sensor when it first threw the code, without testing the old one.
New one does fluctuate - no power?
Fuses at fuse box check ok.
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I meant to post- does not fluctuate
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What sensor did you get? It should respond, did you reset the codes when you replaced the old on?
How did you test it?
Where is the exhaust leak?
How dies the engine run?
Dan
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I have muddied the waters here, Dan
There are 2 240s :a 93 with many issues, and a 92 which is the best running 240 I can remember, except for the CEL O2 issue, which doesn't seem to affect mileage or drive ability .
I put a Bosch O2 in that one. Tested with meter when code didn't stay reset shows no movement, apparently no power, so checked fuses in box with test light, all ok.
Any way to test sensor of car?
93: starts fine, but idles rough after warmed up, then stalls out.
Leaky header pipe: have tried patching it with goop to see if that makes difference before I tackle new pipe.
Cleaned MAF, flame trap
No difference in stalling issue, code 1-1-3
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I would start another thread, correctly title it and deal with on car at a time.
One the 92 where do you put the volt meter leads to check the O2 sensor?
Dan
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Yes, I'll start a new thread, but I put the positive end on the connection of the sensor to the harness; under the round boot.
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If you want to disconnect the outer tie rod end without any risk of damage, the best tool is certainly the Volvo turret style puller. That said there are alternatives without resorting to something as unsuitable as the Harbor Freight Pitman arm puller (which, in my experience, is not sized at all right for the job).
I once fabricated a tie rod end puller starting with a piece of 1 1/2" Sched 40 pipe and styled after the Volvo tool which served well for many years. If I had case-hardened it or had some high carbon stock at the time, I still would be using it.
Once my shop-made puller gave up the ghost, I just went to Advance Auto and borrowed their steering tool kit which contains just about every type of tie rod end puller known to man. As long as the tool kit is returned within a designated period of time, there is no charge.
The puller in the Advance kit which I've come to favor is the scissor style. I've removed many tie rod ends using that type of tool, never damaging them in the least.
Also, don't discount the lowly pickle fork. The problem with the pickle fork is that most guys use the wrong size (usually too big) and they don't know how to use it properly.
A pickle fork is NOT a wedge meant to be driven into the parting line of the steering arm / tie rod end with a big beater. If it were, why would it need such a long handle? A pickle fork is a prying tool. You are supposed to tap it until it is seated, then, as you pry on it, you hit the side of the tapered eye on the steering arm smartly with a small hammer - a 16 oz. to 24 oz. ball peen is plenty massive enough. With that slight, controlled impact, the tie rod end will pop right off with no trauma to the tie rod end.
Judging by the all pickle forks with bent handles and mushroomed ends I've seen in shops, even few automotive "technicians" use them correctly.
Rich (near Pittsburgh)
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Rich, I did not know the pickle fork was a pry tool. Seriously, I have two of them pretty much left unused for 30 years. They are so stout I cannot imagine anything I can do at home that would bend either of them.
One of our guys mentions a "pneumatic pickle fork." I wonder at the action derived from pneumatic power -- is it a pry or a wedgie?
Anyway, to add to this Lazarus'd thread, here's a more recent one started by one of this thread's respondents 7 years later. Apparently there are some very strong opinions on how tie rod ends get separated from the steering knuckles on RWD Volvos. Strong opinions indeed.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=306006
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?
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Art, I had spent many tortured hours trying to "wedge" off tie rod ends with pickle forks before the best mechanic I ever knew showed me what he said was the right way to use one.
I think the real trick is tapping the side of the steering arm eye - I do that with any type of tie rod end puller I use and the ends never fail to pop right off.
I can appreciate the idea of a pickle fork mounted to a pneumatic hammer. Never underestimate the physics behind an impact.
Rich (Near Pittsburgh)
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Rather than assess the various approaches, I thought you might get a kick out of the intensity of the messages in that TB thread.
It boils down to "what works for me" is deemed the best approach. In that regard, I may have lacked a challenge. But I do love the two-hammer approach when it works because I don't have to get up and dig out the puller based on where I keep the hammers. When it doesn't work, I just figure my game is off. No big deal.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"He's the best mechanic in town." - 1992 Annemarie Powell said of General Colin L. Powell, a Volvodad
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The smaller of Craftsman's two jawed pullers is awesome ($29, i think).
I've pulled/pressed out 240 tie rod ends, a steering U-joint, and 740 ball joints out of the aluminum control arms.
Add a glob of grease to the tip of the screw portion and crank away with your ratchet, and you're on your way!
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Neither of these press tools worked for me. The larger press tool from HF didn't fit quite right so I went to AZ to pick up the smaller version. It fit better but my tie rod was so stuck attempting to press it out bent the tool. I had it lined up right, greased the threads and tip, and had soaked the tie rod in penetrant for some time. It wouldn't budge. The tool worked in 2 seconds on pressing out the ball joint, so I don't know what happened to make the tie rod so stuck. This is on the same strut assembly that the caliper bolt broke on, so knowing I wasn't going to reuse it anyway, and that I planned on replacing both inner/outer tie rods I just cut the inner tie rod shaft with a dremel cut off wheel. Desperate times .... Maybe the wrong tie rod was used by the last mechanic who worked on the car. Or perhaps it's original to the car? I can't tell. But with the broken caliper bolt and now stuck tie rod, nothing would surprise me.
BTW, I also tried pickle fork and BFH with plenty of wailing on it, and it's as if it was welded in there.
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I may not be remembering OK, but it seems you would not have to remove the tie rod to lower the strut. Removing the sway bar is a must, but I'm not sure you have to do the tie rod.....
--
84 242Ti IPD bars&springs, 89 745 16v M46 IPD bars, 89 744 16v M46 IPD bars, 90 745 AW70, 91 245SE AW70 IPD bars, 93 245 CLassic M47
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Can't remember how many times I said "next time I'll buy one", then didn't have it when I needed it. I got it at Auto Zone for less than 20 bucks. It's a C-stlye splitter with two jaws that slip under the bottom of the steering arm and a crank down "point" with hex head (and ratchet recess) to set against the top of the bolt on the tie rod end. Used mine today in fact. Ten seconds and the tie rod end popped right out. No banging, no solvents, no mess. They carry two styles, a larger one for pitman arms and one for "smaller" links. Part number 25297 by OEM, it fits the knuckle perfectly.
DS
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I musta done something wrong, it took me 12 seconds. AutoZone will even rent a tool for $20!
Mike
'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT
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Narrow Pickle Fork AKA Ball Joint spliter works. But leave a couple of threads on the nut and be gentle. When it drops loosen the nut and ease it out.
Unless you plan to replace the tie rod ends, then hit it like you mean it.
You can also use a smaller wheel puller, clamp the puller arms to the bottom side of the bracket and tighten down on the center nut. That will push it right out, and we don't need no stinking Special Volvo tools.
Regards,
Paul
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I'm a 150lb sandblower. I'm taking up your idea of some kind of a puller and then show that I mean it! And I ain't usin' any stinkin' special VOLVO tools!
Thanks,
Mike
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Big ass hammer usually works, but a tie rod puller is cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1752.
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Cheap and the tie rod puller worked for me. Thanks for the website reference.
Mike
'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT
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I don't have an a__ to match the hammer, I'm goin' shopping tomorrow morning! There's a Harbor Freight across town.
Thanks!
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Second vote for the tie rod puller from Harbor Freight-- I have one that I have used about 6 times now, and it works like a charm-- you don't need to worry about tearing the boot the way you do with pickle forks.
Good luck!
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