Using the instructions found here - I made a rear trailing arm bushing tool today.

First, I have to say "thank you" to the board members who took the time to take measurements, snap photos, and do the R&D on this tool. I'm sure it's saved many of us a lot of time, money and frustration.

I tried my new tool out on the rearend I dropped from the parts car. The inner sleeves were so far off center that I had to pull them out before pushing out the bushings. After that, the tool worked great.

I went to my local Home Depot today for most of the parts and to a mom'n'pop hardware store hoping to find the bolt called for. Well, I found a grade 5, 8" 1/2"x13 bolt instead of the grade 8 bolt with fine pitch threads; I decided to try it. The bolt shows no sign of failing whatsoever after pressing out the two bushings, so I'm gonna say that if that's all you can find locally - go for it.

However, all I found for the pipe plugs was black iron, and those fit somewhat loosely in the 2" conduit coupler. Well, on the first bushing it was fine, but on the second, the plug slipped threads on one side and wound up crooked at the end. I had a hell of a time getting it out. I don't blame it on the fact that it's iron, but rather on the fact that it fits loosely.

I am going to weld or braze the pipe plug into the coupler so it doesn't happen again.

Finally, though I know I shouldn't complain, I have one criticism of the online instructions: I think they are needlessly complicated. For the longest time I thought this would be a daunting task, until I read through the instructions several times and realized how easy making the tool would be. Perhaps there should be a simplified list of insturctions, such as:
A. Drill 1/2" holes in center of plugs.
B. Grind the threads completely off of one plug, or until about 2.2" around.
C. Cut one 2" coupler in half; may need to be ground to fit between bushing brackets.
D. Assemble.

That's pretty much it; some people don't need the tips and techniques on how to accomplish the actual work, which I got bogged down in, not realizing how little work is involved.

Anyway, thanks again, folks!
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'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.

Welding or brazing the Plug.

Hmmm, I had to screw mine in deeper and out at times while taking the TABs off and on. not sure you want to 'lock' the cap into one position.

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Congrats. It will extract any brand TAB bushing successfully.
Be very, very wary of using that tool to install a Super Pro poly rear TAB bushing. Two weeks ago I installed my first one and had to use every combination of pusher and receiver backwards, forwards, incomplete, no washers- you name it to get it in. Once the bushing starts to enter in the second (or outboard) ear, then there is really a lot of pressure involved. On an OEM bushing, the TAB tool is pushing against the shell- as when you watched it line up and push the old bushing out. But on the poly the material sits outside the shell and the pusher cup presses so hard on the poly that is starts to deform and slip against the edge of the shell and it WILL cut the poly. You'll hear a tearing sound.
You can either install the shell first, then the two bushing halves and then the sleeve...a REAL pain in the ass! Or, get a very large washer to put between the pusher and poly (which kinda, but barely worked).
Or you can rent the IPD tool instead, which "encompasses" the bushing better (this is my opinion looking at the picture) and probably wont cut the poly. Or you could install a VOLVO bushing with your tool and avoid the headaches I encountered.

Just some heads up for you on those!

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89 245 'loaded' with a Great Pyrenees; 91 245 project

You have been blessed with a straightforward job. One of my TABs went OK, the second one was incredibly stuck, in spite of liberal doses of PB'laster well in advance and some judicious hammering. I ended up galling and stripping out my grade 8 bolt! Fortunately I had a spare, but I would caution all to use some EP grease on the threads to minimize the chance of galling.

To your point, the Bricksters who preceded us in developing this tool and taught us how to make our own are great folks, indeed.
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No one ever went broke underestimating the taste of the American public - H.L. Mencken