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hybrid |ˈhīˌbrid|
noun
a thing made by combining two different elements
OK - so here is my project. I live in CA, and old Volvos that pass smog are hard to come by, due to the new evap test. I recently purchased a 1975 (read: no smog required) 244 with a great body, a running but worn B20/M41 drivetrain, and a 33 year old GL interior. The seller included an M46 in good condition in the sale.
I picked up a parts 1985 245 with a strong B230F and the auto tranny for a great deal. The tranny is in great condition when I drove it home, but it will be coming out and going up for sale. It is an AW 3+OD unit.
The following components will be installed in the '75 using the stuff from the '85 wagon and the parts I have gathered:
- B230F - it has about 200k mi on it so I'm going to install it then get everything running, then probably rebuild the top end. I may do the oil pump while it is out of car (obviously).
- M46 tranny
- B230F wiring harness and injection system
- Power steering system
- A/C system
- Front suspension system
- Fuel tank (if possible) and related pumps (otherwise, rebuild)
- As much of the braking system as possible
- I will replace or rebuild worn parts as necessary
I'll document the swap here with pics and such. Any advice as I embark on this adventure would be greatly appreciated - for instance if some of the stuff mentioned above will not install into the '75, let me know so I don't tear it all down for nothing! ;)
Thanks,
Phil
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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80
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Updates!!
Finally got the engine out! Only really took 1 weekend of labeling parts and one weekend to get it all out!


Donor in the foreground and Goldie in the background.
Next up - rear main seal on the B230F and mating up the M46, then pulling the B20/M41 (which will be sold - please email me psteen244@mac.com if you are interested!)
Also... any tips on evacuating the R12 system on the donor car so I can safely move it over to the 244?
Thanks,
Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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here's another update!
After 4 Hours of work today:

Got the dash disassembled and the wiring harness labeled and removed. Getting at the HVAC unit was not nearly as bad as I was expecting... sure you have to take out a lot of stuff but it wasn't that bad.
Here's the current "stable" as my brother decided to play with my camera...

-Phil
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I have made a bit of progress and posted it up here for your viewing pleasure:
http://web.mac.com/psteen/volvoswap/
Next up is connecting rod bearings and the rear crank seal, then I'm going to start installing into the car.
Stay tuned!
-Phil
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Hello,
Good work so far, but take your time and do it right!
Unless you have extreme ability, I'd put the M46 in after you install the engine. Clearance will be tight because of the length of the assembly.
Good Luck!
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I'm not sure I understand your reasoning - I took the whole assembly out as one piece (with the AW auto). The front radiator beam will be coming off the 244, so I should be able to go in nearly horizontally with the drivetrain once assembled with the M46 - where are you thinking it will get hung up?
I would imagine it would be much harder to install the trans AFTER the engine was installed... just my .02...
Thanks,
Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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You are correct. With the upper core support off it will slide right in. When setting it on the mounts the extra weight will make it a bit more challenge, but not having to install the tranny later more than makes up for it.
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Lee 75 244 (80k original miles) 79 242 65 220 project
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Hello,
You seem disinclined to retain the B20. And that's perfectly alright as it's your call. However, if saving time and money is your first priority you may wish to reconsider, especially if that old B20 is in decent shape. The later B20s are quite good in terms of power, reliability, and longevity. If the older style injection system proves to be a pain, you should be able easily swap it for carbs. If you're really into programming Volvos, you might want to check out low-cost programmable Megasquirt kits for B20s. Those seem to be a computer guy's dream.
B20 parts used to be hard to come by and expensive. Now with the spread of Internet businesses and the recent "vintage" status of B20 operated vehicles, affordable parts actually seem more readily available than they were ten years ago. I can obtain most B20 parts from common sources like Autozone or Rockauto.com. A properly tuned late model B20 (perhaps with a "D" instead of that smog "K" cam?) should easily keep pace with a standard B230. And you should still be able to get decent fuel economy from the older engine.
Whatever you decide to do, I hope you keep the BB updated with current status and pics. It's always cool to see hybrids put together. I've got lots of respect for people with the know-how and courage to try them. Best of luck!
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What kind of gas mileage could I get with a properly rebuilt/tuned B20? And if I added carbueration? I'm talking if I drive it normally, not like a GT :) I am reconsidering based on everyone's responses on how great the B20 is.
The car is not underpowered at all, but the engine should be rebuilt just for safety's sake.
I still think I will be brining over much of the steering/suspension system to make the car handle better and more modern. Should I try and bring the fuel tank and pump over from the donor car? Will this work? The fuel pump on the 75 is wining really loud and sounds like its about to go.
Thanks,
Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Hello,
According to Road & Track, the 1974 Volvo 142GL w\od (with an engine bay that should be very similar to yours) averaged 20 mpg under "normal" driving conditions. Earlier, lighter FI 140s with fewer emission devices averaged almost 24 mpg. B20s equipped with Zenith Stromberg carbs got 21 mpg. If you were to convert to properly tuned twin SU HIF6 carbs, swap to a "D" cam, and lighten up the 240 a bit, I have little doubt you could get mid-20s if you go easy on the a\c. The PO was right, you really can tinker and customize these engines to do pretty much whatever you want them to. They were used in everything from powerplants in economy vehicles to boats to military vehicles and everything in between.
Handling should greatly improve with the addition of IPD anti-sway bar(s). Pairing these with the right shocks should give you the positive control you're looking for.
Fuel pumps can be had for your model year for under $80 apiece at Autozone or Rockauto.com. If the fuel tank isn't rusty and you can't find any signs of sludge or crud in the bottom, I can't see any reason to replace it.
Granted, the 1975 240 is sorta considered the black sheep of the model series. However, late model B20s and the M41 transmission are prized items by those of us who drive cars of one generation earlier. I think you will really come to love this crossroads vehicle with it's original equipment. Best of luck whatever you decide!
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In order to increase fuel economy, what smog stuff in this engine compartment can be eliminated? Obviously the cat, and you are saying to replace with a "D" cam, but what else?
Why is the '75 a black sheep? Just design or what? School me!
-Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Hello,
I meant nothing derogotory by the use of the term "black sheep". It is in fact a compliment, intended to highlight the uniqueness of this vehicle that bridges a Volvo generation gap. If you stick to the B20, however, you will probably be urged in the 200 forums to forward many questions to the 140\160, 1800, and 120 sections. I was using the term "black sheep" in the sense of, say, the "Black Sheep Squadron". Superior in some ways and outside of the mainstream or typical type.
I don't know if they still manufacture them, but IPD used to offer an aftermarket adjustable computer box designed to work with the Bosch electronic fuel injection. With this box, you could adjust the mixture while driving to attain the perfect balance for the particular driving conditions you desire. Being a computer tech, I imagine you could manufacture something like this or know persons who could do the job for you. A Megasquirt set-up could provide even more control. Grassroots Motorsports had an online article on how to do this to a B20.
I am not entirely sure what driving conditions you will be using this vehicle for. I highly recommend that you consult with the B20 wizards in the 140\160 section on what you have and what you're looking for. Folks like JohnMC, Rhys, and Shannon DeWolfe are extremely experienced in this field and can really help out when you re-build that engine so that it does exactly what you want. I have yet to ask them a question they can't answer. These old engines are extremely customizable and can be tailor made to suit your needs. Good luck!
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What smog stuff can be removed? It is a violation of Federal law to remove a catalytic converter from a car that originally came with one. However, only cars originally sold in California were so equipped. Maybe yours is in fact a 49 state car.......
You can probably get away with removing both the air pump and the vacuum pump. I had a 75 245 many years ago, and got rid of them both with no difficulties. For a better looking job that doesn't scream "smog equipment removed" you will want to change the exhaust manifold for an earlier one with no air injection fittings.
Nothing really wrong with the K cam---a little less power than the D, but a smoother idle.
My 75 245 consistently got mileage in the mid 20s after I converted it from automatic to M41. To improve mileage the best thing you can do is change the rear axle. Your 85 donor car probably has a 3.31, which might be too much for the B20/M41. A 3.73 from a later 240 with AW70 transmission might be a better choice.
As for changing suspension, there is nothing better, or even different on the 85, as compared to the 75. The only reason to change stuff is if the parts on the 85 are in better condition.
I would not consider the 75 240 to be a black sheep---it's more of an oddball, just weird, nothing really wrong with it. The 260 series is the black sheep of the family, due to the awful early version of the PRV V6 it used.
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Hello,
According to Road & Track, the 1974 Volvo 142GL w\od (with an engine bay that should be very similar to yours) averaged 20 mpg under "normal" driving conditions. Earlier, lighter FI 140s with fewer emission devices averaged almost 24 mpg. B20s equipped with Zenith Stromberg carbs got 21 mpg. If you were to convert to properly tuned twin SU HIF6 carbs, swap to a "D" cam, and lighten up the 240 a bit, I have little doubt you could get mid-20s if you go easy on the a\c. The PO was right, you really can tinker and customize these engines to do pretty much whatever you want them to. They were used in everything from powerplants in economy vehicles to boats to military vehicles and everything in between.
Handling should greatly improve with the addition of IPD anti-sway bar(s). Pairing these with the right shocks should give you the positive control you're looking for.
Fuel pumps can be had for your model year for under $80 apiece at Autozone or Rockauto.com. If the fuel tank isn't rusty and you can't find any signs of sludge or crud in the bottom, I can't see any reason to replace it.
Granted, the 1975 240 is sorta considered the black sheep of the model series. However, late model B20s and the M41 transmission are prized items by those of us who drive cars of one generation earlier. I think you will really come to love this crossroads vehicle with it's original equipment. Best of luck whatever you decide!
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In order to increase fuel economy, what smog stuff in this engine compartment can be eliminated? Obviously the cat, and you are saying to replace with a "D" cam, but what else?
Why is the '75 a black sheep? Just design or what? School me!
-Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Hello,
I meant nothing derogotory by the use of the term "black sheep". It is in fact a compliment, intended to highlight the uniqueness of this vehicle that bridges a Volvo generation gap. If you stick to the B20, however, you will probably be urged in the 200 forums to forward many questions to the 140\160, 1800, and 120 sections. I was using the term "black sheep" in the sense of, say, the "Black Sheep Squadron". Superior in some ways and outside of the mainstream or typical type.
I don't know if they still manufacture them, but IPD used to offer an aftermarket adjustable computer box designed to work with the Bosch electronic fuel injection. With this box, you could adjust the mixture while driving to attain the perfect balance for the particular driving conditions you desire. Being a computer tech, I imagine you could manufacture something like this or know persons who could do the job for you. A Megasquirt set-up could provide even more control. Grassroots Motorsports had an online article on how to do this to a B20.
I am not entirely sure what driving conditions you will be using this vehicle for. I highly recommend that you consult with the B20 wizards in the 140\160 section on what you have and what you're looking for. Folks like JohnMC, Rhys, and Shannon DeWolfe are extremely experienced in this field and can really help out when you re-build that engine so that it does exactly what you want. I have yet to ask them a question they can't answer. These old engines are extremely customizable and can be tailor made to suit your needs. Good luck!
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What smog stuff can be removed? It is a violation of Federal law to remove a catalytic converter from a car that originally came with one. However, only cars originally sold in California were so equipped. Maybe yours is in fact a 49 state car.......
You can probably get away with removing both the air pump and the vacuum pump. I had a 75 245 many years ago, and got rid of them both with no difficulties. For a better looking job that doesn't scream "smog equipment removed" you will want to change the exhaust manifold for an earlier one with no air injection fittings.
Nothing really wrong with the K cam---a little less power than the D, but a smoother idle.
My 75 245 consistently got mileage in the mid 20s after I converted it from automatic to M41. To improve mileage the best thing you can do is change the rear axle. Your 85 donor car probably has a 3.31, which might be too much for the B20/M41. A 3.73 from a later 240 with AW70 transmission might be a better choice.
As for changing suspension, there is nothing better, or even different on the 85, as compared to the 75. The only reason to change stuff is if the parts on the 85 are in better condition.
I would not consider the 75 240 to be a black sheep---it's more of an oddball, just weird, nothing really wrong with it. The 260 series is the black sheep of the family, due to the awful early version of the PRV V6 it used.
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Hello,
According to Road & Track, the 1974 Volvo 142GL w\od (with an engine bay that should be very similar to yours) averaged 20 mpg under "normal" driving conditions. Earlier, lighter FI 140s with fewer emission devices averaged almost 24 mpg. B20s equipped with Zenith Stromberg carbs got 21 mpg. If you were to convert to properly tuned twin SU HIF6 carbs, swap to a "D" cam, and lighten up the 240 a bit, I have little doubt you could get mid-20s if you go easy on the a\c. The PO was right, you really can tinker and customize these engines to do pretty much whatever you want them to. They were used in everything from powerplants in economy vehicles to boats to military vehicles and everything in between.
Handling should greatly improve with the addition of IPD anti-sway bar(s). Pairing these with the right shocks should give you the positive control you're looking for.
Fuel pumps can be had for your model year for under $80 apiece at Autozone or Rockauto.com. If the fuel tank isn't rusty and you can't find any signs of sludge or crud in the bottom, I can't see any reason to replace it.
Granted, the 1975 240 is sorta considered the black sheep of the model series. However, late model B20s and the M41 transmission are prized items by those of us who drive cars of one generation earlier. I think you will really come to love this crossroads vehicle with it's original equipment. Best of luck whatever you decide!
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You might want to check if you lose the smog exempt status with the latter engine. Of course if you don't tell anyone they may never find out, assuming you like living dangerously.
The multiple cross member mounting was for different transmissions and my 81 did not have a position far enough back when I converted the AW55 to AW71. That trans did not come out till latter years. In fact the frame rails are slightly reshaped in the latter models to accommodate the longer length because of the overdrive.
You may be a computer tech but as an electronics tech I find troubleshooting automotive systems very difficult because of the near complete lack on black box info available. Substitution can be expensive and used spares are getting harder to find since everyone wants a backup.
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My understanding is that in CA, the year of the car body is what dictates the smog status, not the engine. Either way, cars after 75 are generally not that closely inspected, if at all.
I am having second thoughts now that everyone is singing the praises of the B20. I am now thinking about putting the M46 in my 745 Turbo and driving that to work instead while I rebuild the engine/trans on the 75. I don't know - I've flip-flopped back and forth over the past couple days. I will definately be moving over much of the suspension and steering to make the car drive more modern.
-Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Well.. if it runs well as it is... and money is partially your concern...
Yea, by all means keep the B20. Furthurmore, if it runs well... *don't* go fixing that which ain't broke. I've seen B20s work fine for 300k miles. 200k is hardly a safety issue. If you keep oil in it, and don't let it overheat, that motor *will not* blow up. Volvo parts tend to wear out. They rarely break catastrophically, and when they do, it's almost always because of neglect.
Ditto the transmission. Of course, a proper rebuild is fine for both motor and transmission. But I've seen lots of rebuilt units die way prematurely. Rebuild only when necessary or for significant modification.
As for smog equipment... whatever you do take off (and I would be inclined to pull the airpump... it really doesn't help with emissions), keep the parts as they can be hard to find and some folks need them bits for smog tests...
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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I, for one, am with you all the way.... my first thought was... why would anyone want to do that?... but then I remembered the smog thing.
'75s are such an oddball... The B230 is a better engine and will last longer, run smoother. Yea.. sure, B20s are snappier in my opinion, but on a K-jetted '75...
I, among others, would sure like the electronic ignition and distributor from that '75 B20 :-)
Good luck and do keep us posted!
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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I can't recall if the 75's had rack and pinion, or steering boxes. If the latter, that part of the conversion is likely not worth the effort.
You also might want to do some exploring to see if the M46 will fit in the 75 tunnel. It seems to me I've heard of it being done. If you're lucky, the cross member and tranny mount from the 85 will bolt in. I recall my 72 144 (M40) having two sets of holes in the frame rails for positioning the cross member in two different places. But that may have have been so that the car could accept either an M40 (no OD) or M41 (w/OD).
Since you have to swap the harness and CPU anyway, (plus unspecified exhaust work), have you considered using a B230 turbo. Now that would be a rocketship.
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I'm not sure which steering each has, as I haven't taken them apart yet - when you say not worth the effort - what effort involved and why not?
Just curious. I'm new to Volvos, so any thoughts will help ;)
Thanks,
Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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ALL 240s have rack and pinion, so that's not an issue.
I tend to agree with Goatman though, that it might make more sense to overhaul the B20, as it's an excellent engine if you have a good one. If the car has a working K-jet (CIS) system, why go to the trouble of switching it over to LH, which will probably be the most difficult aspect of the whole job.
If you really want to use the M46, you could track down one of the super-rare B20/M45 bellhousings from a late production 75 240, but, in my opinion, the M41 is just as good as the later gearboxes.
In any case you will want to change the 4.10 rear axle of the 75 for a taller (lower numerical) one.
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How can I know what the axle ratio is on the '85? It's got an AW auto in it (3+OD).
As far as the B20 vs. the B230 - I'm better at troubleshooting electrical stuff (I'm a computer tech after all!). I'm not really that concerned about the injection swap. I'm going to pull the computer and basically the whole engine compartment over from the '85. It should all work. The only part of the swap I'm really not looking forward to is figuring out how to get the AC system from the '85 into the '75.
-Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Does your '75 already have AC in it?
If not, you might not want to bother. Adding AC to a car that didn't have it originally requires you to replace the entire HVAC unit inside the dash (and getting that sucker out is a huge pain in the ass.) The non-AC HVAC units are different then the ones that do have AC.
Everything forward of the front seats (on the inside of the car) needs to come out. The dashboard, the steering wheel, the center console, all of it.
I have pictures of the process if you are interested. Just let me know.
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Formerly 'HearToTemptYou'
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yes I am going to need to swap the ac in... I live in CA and this will be a daily commuter.
any pics, advice, dos and donts would be WONDERFUL!
Thanks,
Phil
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Thanks for the pictures! What years were involved your swap? Will I need to use the dash pieces from the '85 or will the HVAC unit fit in the '75 no problem?
I'm not hugely concerned about the strength... just as long as it provides SOME cooling.
Thanks,
Phil
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I pulled the HVAC unit out of my car to replace the heater core, not to swap the AC. (Pictures are from my '80 245.) I imagine the unit from the '85 would bolt in with out too much of a fuss.
For as much trouble as it is to do this, I wouldn't settle for mediocre cooling.
Price what new parts will cost. You can get modern AC stuff that will work much better then what's in the '85.
At this point I've put a later style dash in my '80 car (from a '83 245 as I recall).
Do both cars have the same colored interior? You could swap much of the dash pieces if so for a more modernized feel when driving.
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Formerly 'HearToTemptYou'
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When you say modern HVAC unit, do you mean pricing a new one from Volvo for the 93 model years? I'm already likely going to do the R134a retrofit kit which will replace the condenser and evaporator if I'm not mistaken... what is it about the later model HVAC units that make them cool better?
Thanks,
Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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What I mean is find out what a new compressor, new hoses, etc... all that stuff costs.
I'm pretty sure that a '93 HVAC unit (and to be clear, it's just the plastic housing that the heater core sits in) is the same as your '85.
I think your '85 would have a york compressor. Starting in '86 (I believe) 240s came with rotary compressors which I've been told work much better. I could be wrong about this though. AC compressors can be had from the junk yard for about $50.
I'm no AC expert though. I've never owned a Volvo with working AC. All of my cars over the years have had non working factory AC (except for a '76 245 I once had which had no AC at all.)
You should probably start a separate thread about the AC when the time comes.
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Formerly 'HearToTemptYou'
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Hello,
I succeeded in replacing a 1977 B27 with a 1983 B23.
Why don't you rebuild the neat B20?
Goatman
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Mainly because I don't have the time - my goal for this is a reliable daily commuter with more power than the B20. The guy that sold me the car was saying the B20 is very desireable for modification and has a unique injection setup. I just don't know if I can spend the time and money to work on and find parts for a 33 year old engine :)
I'm sure it will make another enthusiast happy when I sell it to them though.
-Phil
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75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser
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