Hi, I was wondering if there is an easy way to remove the old rear bushings from the front control arms of '95 960-- I dont really want to take the arms off of the car if possible--any tricks??? Thanks so much for your help--it is greatly appreciated! zak

There is little realistic feasibility of you removing the rear (large) bushings from the front control arms with the control arms on the car.

There is essentially ZERO possibility of your getting the new bushings put into the front control arms with the control arms on the car.

The front control arms are not that hard to take off the car, but pressing those new bushings in is not an easy job. You really need a special tool and a press to do the job.

That's what I needed to know! Thanks for your response--I run a cnc machine shop and we have a few big presses there. I'll tackle it this weekend!! Thanks again, zak

Since you are a machinist, I can send you a drawing of the tool to do the job.

It's not hard to make. It's basically a lathe job, but there are some milled features added after turning.

I would definitely recommend replacing the bushings in the control arm over buying the 'new' aftermarket control arms from FCP @ ~$110 each. The Volvo rear bushing is a very unusual design and is made of some kind of composite shell and rubber vulcanized to it. The big bushings are fairly cheap (~$25 each at Tasca Volvo). The other bushing is even cheaper and replacement is pretty straightforward with the control arm out.

The only other tool you need is a good tie rod end puller (not the 'pickle fork').

With those tools, you can do the job in under 2 hours.

If you want the press tool drawing, then say so.

hey, awesome-- If it's not to much trouble that picture would be great, Thanks again for your help. zak

If I might add: with any suspension bushing, do the final torque of the bushings with the car resting on the wheels, i.e., with the suspension loaded.

On that rear bushing, it really doesn't make any difference, but the front bushing requires this as its clocking position of the inner & outer shells will change as the control arm pivots upward, so the vehicle must be on the ground when the inner shell is 'pinned' into the front axle cross-member by torquing down the bolt.