Sorry, I've not have been clear enough, I think you misunderstand my problem.

It is not the coil itself that is the problem. I've already ruled that out with a coil swap.

I'm running with a blue bosch 140 coil and a spare ignition switch with a previously cut armored cable. The switch armor was cut very far back and I had to splice into what little wire was left there (not much). I've already switched out the coil with another known good one and found no change at all in the appearance of the problem. I've also checked the wire from the starter/battery to the ignition switch and found perfect continuity (0 ohms) so I know the switch is getting power from the starter/battery.

I strongly suspect the + wire from the ignition switch to the coil is the trouble. It is an intermittent problem that pops up in very inopportune places and times of the early AM and since I can't reproduce it, I'm eliminating the likely sources.

I think I've narrowed the possible failure points to + wire from the switch to the coil.

The engine always cranks - even when it won't start. Know that when it won't start there is no electrical pulse coming from the coil (checked with a timing light).

The suspect is the switch itself and/or the patch from the new wire from the switch to the + terminal on blue coil. I do not have a spare switch handy so I need to bypass the problem - at least temporarily.

I want to know if the #2 fuse can be successfully used to power the + on the coil. This is what the wiring diagram indicated for later model cars.

It was suggested in another thread as a plausible "fix" for my problem and I'd like another opinion on it.

I'm trying to experiment by removing the suspect wire connection from the switch and see if the problem vanishes.

I'm wary of powering the coil directly from the battery for anything other than a short experiment. It seems ill-advised and a great way to burn something up.

I need something that I can try for a few days that will not risk the electrical system.