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Howdy everyone. Im currently trying to replace my FPR but Im having one problem and encountered one oddity.
Problem: The nut holding the FPR to the bracket. Its just plain stuck. I dont know the size on the nut but its bigger than every wrench I have now and my darn adjustable, the only one I have, is too long and hits the master cylinder. I cant even see a seam between the nut and the bracket. It absolutely looks like one piece. PB Blaster and WD40 havent aided me thus far. Any tips?
Oddity: I thought I'd try pulling the fuse to the main fuel pump and letting it run dry to make the FPR job cleaner / less chance of me having a carbeque. So, I pulled the correct fuse, let the car run.... and run... and run. I finally turned it off after it ran for roughly 15 minutes without that fuse. I tried again by pulling the fuses for the main AND pre-pump. Still kept on running. Oddly enough, having any of the fuses removed in any order didnt effect the vehicle running AT ALL. I did notice that in the fusebox, all the wiring had two wires running to each fuse. Except for the main pump and pre-pump. They each only had one wire running to each fuse in the fusebox. Im learning to work on cars with my 240 and my precious Bentley book and Im just confused...
Appologies if I didnt make myself clear enough with any descriptions. Thanks!
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What am I missing here the FPR is held on the Rail with a 10mm bolt. As far as depressurizing the system. Just throw a rag under and around the Regulator, when you pull it out you will get a quick squirt shot onto the rag.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Tony,
Before 1989, the fuel pressure regulators are waaaaay different than the cinchy LH 2.4 regulators that are held in place with two 10mm screws and a hose clamp.
The LH 2.2 regulators mount to the fuel rail with a flare or compression like fitting instead. Then there's a bracket that the regulator is held onto with a giant nut that slides over a threaded portion of the nipple for the return line to the tank:
http://picasaweb.google.com/RyanR76/1987Volvo245/photo#5096361935106612914
To the original poster, try the one-hand squeezing approach I mentioned. If that big nut still wont come off, try bonking it lightly to help free up the threads. It's important to use a good wrench or socket here. An adjustable wrench can round stuff off.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Thanks so far ya'll. Sorry for not listing the LH model and such. Its a 1984 244DL. I forgot which model of LH that is. Thanks for breaking the fuse depressurization myth though! I was beginning to think I had the possessed Volvo... Anyway, the nut thats stuck and far larger than 10mm is the one in the BACK of the FPR, holding the FPR itself to the bracket. Its the one where the hose leading back to the tank is connected. The other nut, the one connecting the fuel rail to the FPR was actually super easy to loosen with some scissor action. That nut on the back though... good lord. Its almost like they welded it on there! I dont suppose anyone knows the exact size on that?
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posted by
someone claiming to be Lew
on
Thu Apr 24 07:26 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Now knowing the year and FI system, I can tekkyo that big nut is 22mm, which is practically the same as 7/8", in case you don't yet have metric tools.
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Get a set of Craftsman combo wrenches in metric from 8mm-up to about 17mm (you may need to buy the 17mm separately)... I'm also guessing this is a pre-1989 240. This was a toughy on my '87 245.
These nuts can be tough. There should be two "hex" fittings at that joint: the nut, and then on the regulator to hold it stationary while you turn the nut. A trick I learned from someone else is to put a wrench on each hex, so the two wrenches form a "V". Then just squeeze the wrenches on one hand, and it should break free. You have a lot of purchase in your hand... especially if you play guitar, or subscribe to the thought that the handshake make the man. Obviously, set the wrenches up so that you're loosening when you squeeze, and not tightening. :-)
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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"So, I pulled the correct fuse, let the car run.... and run... and run. I finally turned it off after it ran for roughly 15 minutes without that fuse. I tried again by pulling the fuses for the main AND pre-pump. Still kept on running."
I'm guessing your 240 is between '83 and '88, with LH 2.2 FI. (Always include the year along with the model. There are differences.)
The only active FI fuse in the panel is #4, for the tank pump, and the car will run without it. Fuse #6 is not wired to anything in U.S. LH 2.2 cars. I believe it is used for K-jet in other markets, such as Malaysia.
The main LH FI fuse is the 25A blade fuse by the coil. It feeds everything in the FI system, and pulling it while running results in an immediate stall-out.
This "fuse depressurizing" myth bites us all eventually, and comes up here fairly often. It doesn't work because there is no specific Pump or Relay fuse. And pulling any fuel-related fuse results in an immediate stall — with no appreciable depressurizing.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Solaris
on
Thu Apr 24 04:13 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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On my 89 240 it's a 10mm bolt with the nut fixed to the bracket. Taking the fuel cap off will help lose pressure also.
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Hi,
Go buy the appropriate wrench from Autozone. The nut will be very tight!!
Goatman
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