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I guess the best thing to do is to run through the problems from first to last. Initially my car was stalling randomly with a complete loss of power, both while driving and while stopped. Eventually it got to the point where it would not start for long periods. I let it sit for a couple of weeks while I replaced the FI relay, crank position sensor, and checked out the radio suppression relay (which looked fine). I started the car once in the process and it drove for a good 10 minutes but immediately stalled when I pulled into my driveway. I tried to replace the fuel filter, which resulted in having the car towed after my driveway was covered in gas (darned thing was all rusted together). The problem that I started facing after I checked the relays was the car would simply not start, or else it would start and run for a while (a little longer if I kept my foot on the gas and rpms around 1000) then die shortly after. It will crank and crank, and I can hear the relay clicking and the fuel pump engaging when I first turn the key, but it will not start. Once while cranking I heard a loud wizzing noise. It wouldn't start for the mechanics after they replaced the fuel filter, but I drove over there and it did start for me once, but not the second time I paid a visit. The mechanics are looking it over, but I've been informed they seem a little stumped as they're not Volvo specialists. Is there some options I could try to tackle or suggest as the next possible option? Spring break is over in a few days and I have to get back to work. Sorry for the long explanation and repeated posts. Thanks again in advance!!
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posted by
someone claiming to be Mark
on
Tue Apr 15 14:30 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Thanks to everyone on this amazing website. I thought I would let you all know that the power stage ended up being the culprit. I bought a used part online and now the car is up and running fine. Just in time to ride around in the nice weather, although the sunroof is having a little trouble closing sometimes...but I'll just start trouble-shooting after looking through the FAQ and old posts. Thanks again.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Mark
on
Wed Apr 2 13:50 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Well I finally got my car back after it sat at the mechanics for over a week. They were unable to find anything conclusive since it, of course, ran fine for them. Well I have had it two days now and it continues to stall once it is warm.
After reading around on the forum I thought I would try a few options. First, I applied hot sink grease behind the power stage. I took it for a run and it was still stalling. Next I removed the rs relay and inspected it with a magnifying glass - still nothing noticeable, though I'm still going to order a new one tonight, since they're cheap. There were some signs of erosion on one of the prongs on the rs relay also (a light brown goo). Well, I went at it with sand paper and removed what I could see.
Next, I started the car and it ran fine and longer than it has in the last month. I drove it for about 15 minutes before it stalled at a stop sign. It stalled once again about 10 minutes later, but seemed to be driving smoother. I stopped the car for about 15 minutes then started it up again and it almost immediately gave me some problems. I got it started in a parking lot and jumped out and started moving the power stage around, and it seemed to cut out as I did so. I tried this a couple of times and it was consistent. So, I removed it once again and scraped off a similar brownish substance from one of the prongs on the power stage. Afterwards, it drove home fine, only dipping in power once and stalling once in 15 minutes.
I remember reading that there isn't a way to check the power stage, but it seemed to be affected when I moved it around. Maybe just coincidence, but I thought I might put it out there for comment.
I was also wondering if it is necessary to buy the part of the power stage that is connected to the aluminum housing as well as the plug that connects to the wires, or would the former be sufficient. I suppose I ask because there are a few relatively inexpensive ps for sale on ebay right now with just the one part.
Long post again I know...I'm just trying to be as clear as possible as I'm new to the world of Volvo repair, or car repair in general for that matter! Thanks to everyone who has posted so far, and to those who may post in the future.
-Mark
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posted by
someone claiming to be fixit2003
on
Thu Mar 27 05:50 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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You can check the RSR by unplugging all the injector plugs and turning on the ignition. You should get 12 volts to ground on one of the plug pins and zero on the other. If you get the 12 volts try tapping on the RSR to see if it drops out.
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Sorry, it is a 1990 760 Turbo wagon.
Also, someone in a previous post mentioned a method using ether - can this be purchased at most auto parts stores?
Thanks!
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The turbo RS relay feeds voltage to both the ignition Coil and the Fuel Injector ballast resistor pack. But it may not be working as fine as it looks.
I think it's possible to fabricate a jumper for the relay plug that will connect the thicker wires (red input, green output), simulating an energized RSR.
Or, my reading of the wiring diagram shows that a +12V jumper wire from battery + terminal to Coil #15 will substitute the RSR for testing purposes. The +12V at the Coil will feed back to the injector ballast, as though from the RSR.
Ether, aka Starting Fluid, should be found in any auto supply store.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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FI and Ignition systems vary with year and model. Not knowing the specifics makes it hard to focus on what is relevant, and rule out things that may not apply.
The basic diagnosis must first determine which system is failing—Ignition or Fuel, because Ignition failure will automatically prevent normal Fuel system operation. "Normal" here meaning cranking and running conditions—not the Key On "prime".
"...I can hear the relay clicking and the fuel pump engaging when I first turn the key, but it will not start." That example, while not relevant to normal Fuel operation, does at least mean that the pumps will run if the Fuel relay is energized (under that special condition).
Also, "...checked out the radio suppression relay (which looked fine)." leaves the RSR still a suspect because looking fine is not conclusive, and the RSR may affect Fuel or both Fuel and Ignition, depending on year & model.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Try to narrow down where the failure is.
When it cranks but won't start, try looking at a plug to see if you are
losing spark. You can also get some hints by looking at the plugs.
Bill
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Knowing no more about the problem or the car than I do, I can only suggest that you pull the in-tank pump for inspection. It may have a broken hose.
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man
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posted by
someone claiming to be joe
on
Wed Apr 16 13:47 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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If it won't fire with Ether its ignition.
If you have healthy spark and it will fire with engine starter fluid (Ether) but dies after 3 seconds its fuel delivery related.
That doesn't mean fuel pump though, it could still be electrical, aka injectors.
Test the injectors with a voltmeter in the injector plug,
I get 5V when cranking.
If you get juice to the injectors and can hear/feel them clicking I'd say its the pump, even if you can hear the pump run that don't translate to sufficient pressure to pass the injectors.
If you have the 2 pump system its better to swap both.
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