Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Cutting Springs? 120-130


Hey all,

I am wanting to lower my 67' a little. I just put on new (to me) slotted 14 inch rims and tires. i think if I lowered it about 1 inch, it would look very good.
I have read about people cutting the springs to lower other cars, and it is not too hard. I was wondering if anyone here have done that to their 122s.
If you have, have you run into any problems with handling, rubbing, or anything else? and any tips?

thanks
Kent








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    Cutting Springs? 120-130

    You may also consider heating the coils, without removing them from the car and with the car sitting on the ground, to methodically 'collapse' the springs a little to lower the car a little. This has to be done lightly and slowly so the spring metal does not become too brittle and want to break.

    Deluxe








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      Cutting Springs? 120-130

      I have heard of this done, but if you knew me at all, you would advice against this metod. LOL









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        Cutting Springs? 120-130

        Maybe the heating and stretching method is not one you would use but I would like to add my experience to the conversation. When I dropped an all aluminum 215 Oldsmobile V8 into a 265 I found (and this was after I'd already installed new shocks all around) that my headlights were pointed into the trees. We heated a 4-5 inch section of each front spring and lowered the car about an inch and a half. Since doing that we have logged over 150k--the shocks (KYG) and springs are still fine. I also used this method when building a hot rod Renault for the owner of the dealership (a very hard driver) where I worked at the time. That all being said, I did cut the coils front and rear on my 140 "track car" as a temporary measure until I fitted performance springs.








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    Cutting Springs? 120-130

    From the file of been there, afraid to admit that I've done that. When I put my front VPD sport springs on, my rear ride hight was fit for the trailer park (sexy rake in need of massive tires and a mullet). So while I am still waiting for my rear lowering springs from VPD, I took one full coil out of the rear springs. This lowered the rear by the one inch you're looking for. The problem is that you loose the finish coil and this makes mounting the springs a little more difficult as you should orient the coils the same so that they don't end up cock-eyed.

    I don't like the feel at all, as my stock shocks were then asked to operate out of their original optimal position. At times it felt as though I had something wrong with the rear (low tire pressure, hard to describe without a test drive). My KYB's (the stock replacement GR-2's) lasted about 1000 miles like this and are now garbage, they didn't last 4000 miles total. Today I put my Bilstein's on the rear, they won't mind the drop.

    Cutting also changes the spring rate, so it's really up to you, if you're doing it just for looks and don't want to invest in suspension improvements, then chop away. If you'd like to improve the handling of the car, then get a set of sport springs (stay away from "lowering" springs, they are just shorter - the 122 needs more spring rate), proper shocks and a set of sways from IPD.








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      Cutting Springs? 120-130

      I have cut the springs on several cars I've owned over the years, including a 122s, and I have also bought expensive Eibach sport springs for another car I had (a MB 190E). I have also heated the springs on a car, and would never recommend that method.

      Heating them is so imprecise you don't get a really good idea of how low it's going to settle until it is much too late. Plus, it changes the metal-temper of the spring in the area you heated it, and it won't help the handling one bit, not to mention if you aren't careful you may find yourself looking for a fire extinguisher in a big hurry.

      The best method (in my opinion) is to cut the spring with a die grinder or plasma cutter. The plasma cutter is a very localized heat at the very end of the spring, so it won't effect anything, and it cuts very quickly. The die grinder works just as well, but takes a little longer. If you have lots of patience, a hacksaw will do the job too.

      For the record - I am a mechanic, and I have heard all the pro/cons of cutting springs, and from my experience cutting springs and riding in cares with them cut - I would put money on most enthusiests not being able to tell the difference between replacement sprot springs, and cut springs. I do not buy into the arguement that they alter spring rate in any negative way any moreso then replacment springs alter spring rate. By cutting an 1" off a 12" long spring, you are going to increase the spring rate by about 9% (there are a few varying factors) - that is very similar to what you can expect on a sport spring. It will improve the feel of the car, and you will like it. Trust me.
      If I can help at all - feel free to email me - dma251@yahoo.com








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        Cutting Springs? 120-130

        as an example:if you have 360 lbs. on each wheel with 6 coils each coil is flexing 60 lbs. cut off one coil and 5 coils are flexing 72 lbs each. makes for a stiffer spring rate







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