I cannot see where the flame trap is. On my '88 it's not too bad.

Here's an idea -

Since the block is almost the same for the 1986 and 1988 B230F, why not convert the 1986 to the "high mount" flame trap system like the 1988?

For the near term on the 1986 - look on the throttle body end of the accordion hose where there are TWO places where larger vacuum hoses connect. One hose goes to the Idle Air Controller, the other to the flame trap holder cup.

Follow that hose to the flame trap. It is a PITA to service, because access is in from the front, past the dizzy (pull off the cap and rotor) and the IAC.

The cup is rubber and will be hardened, get a new one. It sits on a nipple on the top side of the breather box (OBB). There is a small diameter hose from that same rubber cup which goes to a fitting on Intake rail #2 (maye #1), which clogs. the fitting clogs, too.

Pull that small hose and replace it, Ordinary vacuum hose is cheap and will work. Unscrew the fitting and clear it. I use a 3/32-inch drill bit, hand twisted while holding it over a trash can. The stuff in there is hard, not what one wants in the cylinders.

Pull and clean out the larger hose, the one from the cup to the accordion hose, if you did not get a new one.

Clean the OBB well. Replace the flame trap itself, found inside that rubber cup. Reassemble the whole system (PCV system).

You did put a strap over the replaced oil plug on the back of the cam cover, right? Isn't that plug what you said blew out?

To put in the 1988 system, you will need all new parts. OBB, "S" hose, cup, hose to accordion hose. The small dia. hose and fitting re the same. Dunno the cost, what is a series of skinned knuckles worth? Could be $50.00 USD.

Look carefully at the routing of the main wiring harness. See how it goes from the firewall to below the intake manifold. There can be a problem if the harness goes down between intake rail #3 and #4. That's the same space used by the "S" hose that connects the new flame trap cup down to the OBB. On an '88, that harness runs between rail #4 and the firewall.

To put in the high mount parts, you must pull the old system, especially the OBB. It is good to have on hand a new throttle body gasket so you can pull the TB for better OBB access. Then do the OBB and connections, then clean the TB and reinstall.

Other posters here have good info about the OBB R&R. Check the FAQs for info about TB cleaning, and adjusting the TPS (throtle position switch).

You will remember the "Old Way" when you service the high mount flame trap in the future. Fifteen minutes max. If your engine oil is full synthetic, the flame trap will practically never need cleaning - have a look during an oil change. My 1988 244GL is on M-1, and I have stopped checking, it's never dirty.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

PS: There is a sensor on the block behind the OBB. It is the Engine Coolant Temp sender(ECT) which tells the ECU computer what the engine temp is. If it fails, the extra fuel injected when the engine is cold might not shut off. Consider installing a new one while the OBB and TB are out of the way.

I'll echo Starkie in that your real problem is probably the oil breather box (OBB). And I, like every BB'er would love to see you solve your problem for the long haul...

Certainly replace the $1.50 flame trap, the $2 nipple and the hoses. That's cheap. But the reason the (relatively worthless) flame trap is clogging, your seals leak (and, you might notice oil leaking from the oil filler cap as well), is the OBB. I'd put money on it.

My advice is to first locate the OBB. Search the BB. I've posted a pic of my crap all apart and the space where the OBB is. The two oily holes is where it goes...http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/7522.jpg

Someone posted this showing another area that needs cleaned that could cause crank case pressure and seal leaks....
http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/7559.jpg

Anyway. It's 30 odd dollars for a new one. Save yourself cleaning it. It's not a difficult job-- although initially it looks like it. You don't need to take off everything I've shown.

The easiest is to remove the throttle body (three bolts, some hoses and the throttle arm clip) and your TB is probably a mess too since the oil is spewing all over there too. Right?

Then remove the Idle air control valve which I think for your 86 is in the same place as your 88's. Then the box is in plain view, easy two bolt removal. Plug the holes, spray the oil mess around it with TB cleaner. Make sure rubber tube to oil pan is clear (poke with something soft). Install new OBB. Reinstall IAC valve. Reinstall TB with new gasket. And...

You should have one fine breathin' car my man!

Either that, or simply replace the rear trailing arm bushings and all is good

(THAT is a joke, of course)!



--
89 245 'loaded' with a Great Pyrenees

Thanks. I didn't see the OBB at FCPGroton. You said only $30, where did you get it? Thanks.

It's available from FCP. Look in the Tune Up category:

http://fcpgroton.com/volvo240tuneup.htm

Your 86 seems to be original Volvo for $28. My 89 was some other manufacturer for $32. Don't forget the green PCV O ring.

--
89 245 'loaded' with a Great Pyrenees

That sir is a dealer part. You are headed to your friendly Volvo Dealership.

Or... you could go down to a parts store and get a bucket of parts cleaner. Found one down at Autozone, but forget the name. But it was a gallon of a solvent based cleaner. Soak the box you have in it and you will see all the curd that nas built up in there coming out. I had to soak mine for about a couple of hours with several rinses before it was clean inside.

Need to warn you about is to not mess with the tube that makes up to the breather box. You just want to use a 13mm socket to pull it off and then cover it with a cloth while you clean it. If it were me, I would do all my cleaning with the flame trap and box on the car. You do not want any crud to fall down in the block or to mess with the tube when you are doing this.

I bought a new one, and later cleaned the old one and put it in the parts stash. If you do that route you will need the Oring still. That is a 33mm x3mm oring by the way.

Thanks and

There is an o-ring under the breather box you want to be sure and get if you decide to change it out or clean the one you have.

Regards,

Paul

Ah yes! The o-ring. Prime target for "guilty suspect." Thanks Paul.
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89 245 'loaded' with a Great Pyrenees

Best way to find it is by feel (at least for me). You get on a pair of gloves and stand by the drivers side fender. Find the hose on the back side of the intake hose right by the throttle body. Follow it with your right hand and with all that oil sprayed around it should just slip right on down to the trap. You can also get a light and shine it down through the manifold between 2 and 3 and if you bend down just right you can see it. But with the oil cover red block, black harness, and the breather box not a lot you can really see.

You also want to make sure the the vacuum port on the top side where the small hose goes is also clear, I use a paper clip.

Before I found the BB, I did blow the rear seal because of a clogged flame trap.

Good Luck.

Same place. If the flame trap is not plugged up it could be the oil seperator that is becoming restricted, or the hose off of the side of the flametrap holder, or the attachment point of the that hose on the intake manifold.

Consider yourself lucky that the rear main didn't decide to pop out !!

Randy