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B16 engine pulling? 444-544


Hi all, I am about to pull the B16 from my '58 444. I would be interested in hearing from anyone that his done this job. It looks like it might be easier to pull the eng/trans as a unit, as it looks like the upper transmission bolts (10mm socket heads) will be very hard to get to (B16 with H6 3spd.). I might be able to reach them if I remove the drive shaft and trans mount and drop the rear down, but it seems if I am going to have to do all that I might as well get the whole thing at once, if possible. I have so far left the front fenders and apron on the car, the hood is removed, BTW.
I will be replacing the 'old' B16 3spd. with a rebuilt B16/M40.
Any thoughts/expert opinions/tips appreciated!

Cheers!
OK








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    B16 engine pulling? 444-544

    You will need the car higher off the ground if you pull the tranny at the
    same time as the engine. The rear of the tranny has to drop quite a ways down
    to get the engine out with the tranny attached.
    Be sure and disconnect the ground strap, speedo cable, etc!
    --
    George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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      B16 engine pulling? 444-544

      Thanks for the responses Tony and George! One question for George, How high should I try to get the car off the ground to clear? Would it be better to raise the front or back of the car? I am using a chain fall that can move around 5 or 6' and the beam I am using to attach it to is about 11' off the ground.
      I have included a picture of the setup I am using, hopefully it will display.

      Again thanks & Cheers
      OK








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        Safe load handling 444-544

        No experience pulling engines here, but I'm compelled to chime in about lift points. I apologize if it’s all obvious/remedial…

        Lifting by straps under the engine or any low point on the engine/tranny is not advisable IMO. To keep the load stable your lift point should be above the center of gravity of the load. Otherwise the load will tend to rotate to bring the CoG to the lowest point unless it is perfectly balanced.

        The weights are pretty low, but it’s still worth noting that if you use multiple legs, the load in the leg will increase as the angle of the leg from vertical increases. It’s good practice to keep that angle under 45deg. from vertical to avoid a “piano wire” effect.

        If you have enough headroom, perhaps a come-along could be used as one leg of the lift to improvise a load-leveler to alter the angle of the engine/tranny.

        Be careful!

        -Will
        --
        850 / Mini








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        B16 engine pulling? 444-544

        Taking the front panel out or even the complete front end off will be time well spent IMO. Then you'll only need to lift the engine and box a foot or so before you push the car backwards. At the moment, getting enough angle will be hard work especially if you don't have an adjustable angle gizmo with your lift. If you do decide to try it that way it would be worth raising the rear of the car as much as possible. You're already at a disadvantage with the car angled down at the back. I don't think that I'd agree with using the 2 valve cover bolts. Wire strop or strapping under the manifold and engine mounts is much safer.








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        B16 engine pulling? 444-544

        It's been a long time since I had a 444, almost 40 years. On a 122 I think
        I get the front jack points about 14 or 15 inches off the floor, which should
        also be enough for a 444, I'd think.
        --
        George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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          B16 engine pulling? 444-544

          I just had the PV up on jack stands (5 or 6 inches up?) last time I stuck the motor and trans in, and that was with a longer M41 hanging on the back.

          A load leveler makes all the difference in the world in doing this, because the angle of the drivetrain needs to make several drastic changes as it goes in and out. From level at the start to something like 45 degrees, then level again to get the tail of the trans over the fenders.

          I just took the hood off, and the radiator out. With a load leveler and a cherry picker it practically felt like cheating last time. No straining, heaving, cursing. the motor went in perfectly, didn't touch anything until it set down on the motor mounts.
          --
          '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t







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