Do folks have an opinion on the best year for 240s? I'm trying to include reliability, longevity and ease of diagnosis & repair; perhaps MPG also. Safety isn't a big issue but I do prefer later cars with finned rotors.

Most of the cars I buy and drive are high-mileage units so ease-of-repair is key for me. My preferences are

1987-88 M47 if a stick, pre-CPS, the "good" wiring harness
1989-90 without ABS or SRS (I'm not against these 2 features but they are more maintenance in an older car)
1991 New AC system but ABS still optional

1990-up SRS; ABS became standard in 1992 but not sure when it started.

Net then, I think I prefer 1987-89 cars but not sure if the CPS is better/ worse than the 87-88 ignition system.
--
85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

Greetings:

I have been on this board for a number of years, and it is the best ever!
I just picked up my first 1989 240DL 4 door sedan today! I have quite a bit of experience with 87-92 740/1995 850 volvo wagons. I have had at most 500,000 plus orignal miles on my very first 88 740 s.w. gle, other than that all of my 740 wagons were at least 300,000 miles on average, nice low-end torque too! They can tug a load!However, my 89 240 DL, has a airbag in the steering wheel, so when did airbags begin for the 240 series? It only has a mere 152,000 plus original miles on it. Also I believe that the orignal owner replaced the ECU because I have an extra one in the rear seat (Bosch). The car runs nice! I just have to replace the right side axle muffler pipe back to the muffler. Can this model be fitted with 185/65 or 60 15 tires? Or how about 195/60/15 tires. Other than that she is ok, although I may have to install a automatic transmission bushing, easy fix, it seems as though I get a slight shift upon take off, in addition to the drive shaft slightly shifting, although not in such a severe way. Are there any other FYI'S that one would need to know about a 1989 240 DL in particular? Thank you in advance!


Best Regards

The rust free, rattle free, and most clean one is the best one. Everything else on the car is replaceable.

While our '87 wagon is impressively rock solid with a new wiring harness at 300K, I've never and will never buy into the myth of the 1988 being the best year for the 240. Nonsense.

The CPS is moot. Replace the original and press on. Regina FI in 740/940's uses the same exact sensor, and I'll argue that it's more reliable than any Bosch system. If you're in OH, I'll swap your CPS for you with my long skinny arms! :-)

The '89's are likely to have the problematic ECU, but that's an easy, cheap fix.

ABS isn't a major problem if you service it. The airbag is a safety feature, so why not? There's no evidence that a 240 airbag is dangerous in an accident, though some will debate it. No chance of accidental deployment.

As for A/C, 1991 and up has the larger evaporator, which makes 1991-92 cars easier to convert to r134. Only '93's came with r134.

If you go for a 1986-93 240, budget for E-codes! :-)

Good luck!
-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 295k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

Thanks for your thorough response Ryan. I don't think I was clear on some things though.

I have several of these cars. I drive one, my wife drives one; I get them for friends. Mine see hard use and often they're rusty and don't last a year. (That said, I bought a low-mile 89 yesterday so that will have a different use to us).

The whole game to me is having parts available and minimizing the effort to keep them going. So any extras (ABS, SRS) are more work and I don't want it. Your coments are in "" below.

"I've never and will never buy into the myth of the 1988 being the best year for the 240. Nonsense." Did I say that - 88 was best year? Is it considered to be best? I was thinking that the ideal year FOR ME would probably be 88 or 89 depending on what I learned about the CPS (which you've helped with below).

"The CPS is moot. Replace the original and press on. ...I'll argue that it's more reliable than any Bosch system." Good comment. I'm seeing now that the trick is to replace the factory unit. I broke the CPS bracket on my 91 last week (the CPS was frozen to it) and had to pull the M47 but next time I'll get underneath to work it through. Pulling the M47 was about 2 hours on the lift so not the worst thing to happen.

"If you're in OH, I'll swap your CPS for you." I'm up by Zanesville but I think it's not a bad job. Next time (I just ordered one for my 89) I'll drop the trans mount and work from below.

"The '89's are likely to have the problematic ECU, but that's an easy, cheap fix." I didn't know this - what's the problem with the 89 CPU? I'll search here when I'm done.

"ABS isn't a major problem if you service it." Yes, but it takes service and I don't want the extra complication. Just personal preference here.

"The airbag is a safety feature, so why not?" Same as above.

"There's no evidence that a 240 airbag is dangerous in an accident ..." No where did I even hint that I'm against ABS or airbags. We've had them on many cars; I have them now on my 2006 pickup. Great stuff. I just don't want them on an old car that I have to work on. That's all.

"If you go for a 1986-93 240, budget for E-codes!" Sorry, I don't understand. For inspections?

Thanks again.
--
85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

Ahhh!!! Usually when folks ask "What year is best?", they're starting the search for the ultimate 245. We, too, take what we can get locally (within reason), so choosing a specific model year isn't really an option. Lots of rust buckets in OH. We eventually bought our '87 for peanuts in NJ.

Hope I didn't come across harsh with my message, it was just rushed. I was just trying to nip some common responses in the bud preemptively.

The '89's had/have a common ECU problem (the pink label -561), read up in the FAQ on it for some work-arounds. Easiest is to just replace it with a later ECU (White label -561 or -951, or re-chipped one). I have a spare (my only spare) -951 for the pink label -561 in my '90 245. I could loan it to you if you get in a jam.

As for ABS/SRS, "maintenance" might have been too strong a word. The SRS system doesn't need any really, and the ABS just needs typical periodic flushing. Our '91 740 has ABS, and it's trouble free at 300K, whereas I've slowly been rebuilding the entire brake system on my non-ABS '90 245 at only 114k (it was a Boston car).

As for my "1988" comment, to many folks chime in that it's the best year for the 240 as it was the last year for the tried and true LH 2.2 FI, etc., etc... I just don't buy it. More and better features kept coming into the 240, and LH 2.4 is mostly rock solid.

As for "E-codes", they're the spiffy stock headlamps installed on 240's (actually all cars in Europe) in every other market aside from North America. Glass lenses and great optics. A little pricey, but *much* better than the yellowing plastic ones we got here in the states.

Cheers,
-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 295k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

No, I don't seek an ultimate 240. Just trying to start with a good candidate. In the way you avoid 96-97 Jeeps because of axle problems (I avoid all Jeeps but that's preference); or the early-90s Mitsubishis with the $2K clutch paks; etc.

I used to have 83-85 240s and then moved into 86-88s. I think I'm going to focus on 89-up cars now. I just bought a 1-owner 95K mile 244 that I'll fix up for trips. I think the CPS cars are a good bet and, sure, the SRS isn't any real maintenance. Just a pain when you want to remove the steering wheel.

I've gone 2-3-even 4 states away for cars. Our nice 92 245 is an almost rust-free southern car. But fuel's killing that (thanks GWB) - I bought a $100 parts car in PA and the diesel fuel there and back was was $130.

I think it's the bleeding of the ABS I don't like. And the early ABS systems aren't great so not much benefit from having it.

I don't know about the E-codes. I lived in Europe for a bit so I should know about them. Yes, the plastic covers are horrible. I noticed that the one on my 86 1/2-filled with water from the rain, then froze and destroyed the assembly.

Thanks for the notes on the ECUs and the offer of help. I'll look into that and probably replace the ECU in the 89. I want the car for trips and so I want to minimize potential problems.

I'm not far N of you so if you need something let me know. Right now I have a few 240s.

No, didn't think you were harsh. I just don't want any frills I can't use. I had to upgrade to a tractor with electronics and just takes the fun out of maintenance.
--
a few 1985-92 240s & 245s - parts cars & drivers

"I think it's the bleeding of the ABS I don't like. And the early ABS systems aren't great so not much benefit from having it."

What did you find difficult about it. I've only bled a '93 240 once and my '93 940 twice, but had no problems with either one. I'd even say that the ABS 240, having 2 less bleeders made the job a bit easier than on the older ones.

I also found (by using Ate Super Blue) fluid on the bleed-flush jobs, that the ABS modulator fluid volume is relatively small, i.e., a complete bleed-flush (Blue fluid showing at all 4 wheels) took about the same amount as the older non-ABS—less than a liter.

What I like most about my 940 ABS is that it's dead.

--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Yes, good point. Some time after I wrote that message I tried to remember what problems I had bleeding the 240 ABS. And I couldn't really remember. Seems like I had to fuss with the ABS box or junction box in the process but not sure now.

I thought that the newer (91-up) 240ws all had the calibers with fewer bleed nipples on the front calipers - 6 vs 2. I didn't realize it was related to the ABS - my 91 is non-ABS and I think has one nipple/ caliper.
--
a few 1985-92 240s & 245s - parts cars & drivers

I thought that the newer (91-up) 240ws all had the calibers with fewer bleed nipples on the front calipers - 6 vs 2. I didn't realize it was related to the ABS - my 91 is non-ABS and I think has one nipple/ caliper.

I think ABS came in some time during 1991, so all '91s may not have it.
But if yours has only 1 bleeder (and 1 fluid line) on front calipes, its ABS. Should also have the modulator under the hood.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

That agrees with my understanding on the issue. Volvo had the dual diagonal circuit on the non-ABS cars up to the end (which means the double circuit fron calipers with extra bleeders and two flex lines each). Then the ABS simplifed things (hydraulically speaking at least) with a 3 circuit system, with each front caliper having a 'normal' caliper and only one flex line.

I've never really done anything special with the ABS system when bleeding brakes, on either of the ABS equipped cars I've had (other was a '95 Jetta GLX with really nice 4 channel ABS with traction control). Flush the fluid just by adding new fluid at the resevoir, opening the bleeders, and lightly pumping the brakes (it's always a bad idea to ram the brake pedal to the floor when bleeding). And flushing them with clean fluid is something you should do every few years with non-ABS brakes as well, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time.

Over the 10 years and 180K miles I drove my jetta, I had exactly one (1) issue with the ABS. Once the light came on, and stayed on, and the ABS stopped working. Before either taking it to the dealer and forking over the dough, or just pulling the warning light (non-op ABS just means normal braking, there's nothing wrong with driving it like that) I did some simple checks with a multimeter and my Bentley manual, and very quickly (5 minutes, tops) I found a bad wheel sensor. $30 later at the dealer parts counter and my ABS was back in operation.

And with my 245, I noticed my ABS wasn't working shortly after I bought it (no warning light). So I used my Bentley manual and a multimeter, and about 30 minutes later I had found two faults with the system. 1) A burnt out fuse on the surge protector (probably from a rapid car charger) and 2) A missing ABS warning light (naughty eBay seller!). About $1 in parts later it was all working again and I have had a second's trouble from it since then.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t

Ease of repair - the earlier the better. As Volvo added new-fangled things to the later 240's they only got more difficult to work on (though marginally so).

Still, you can't go wring with a '93. Even in the last year of the 240, Volvo made some improvements, like R134a AC, hood insulation, oil-squirter block, better speakers, power mirrors, etc. Those are just the things that changed from '92 to '93. From '91 up there are so many additions - ABS, SRS, etc. - that it's like a new car compared to the older ones.

Don't mistake me, I love the older 240s and would happily trade mine for an '82 or older in the same condition. But the '93 models have almost all of the modern features of any car up until the 2000's. They're hard to beat.

Here's a list of things I can think of that are specific to a '93:
Squirter block
Upgraded speakers
r134a AC
Hood insulation
Upgraded suspension - 21mm sway bars, stiffer springs (probably)
Better dash, no fake speaker hole, less likely to crack (also on '92)
Upgraded fuse holder next to battery

Available before '93, but not on all models:
ABS - standard on '93
Power Mirrors - standard
Heated mirrors - standard

Things that only '90+ models have:
5 1/4" front speakers
Air bag (SRS)
Probably more I can't think of.

I've never had any problems from these improvements, in my opinion, they only make the car safer and better to drive.

--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.

I know the "L" blocks are set up for squirters but I have it on good authority that only the 940 turbos actually have the squirter heads installed—and that 240s and non-turbo 940s are plugged off.

Good Squirter Photos Here

I'll know for sure when I replace my 940 oil pan in a few (I hope) months.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

That's the first I've heard of this, Bruce - that's a little shocking because all the Turbobrick guys are big on '93+ L blocks, with no mention of the n/a blocks being plugged.

Be sure to let us know.
--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, poly bushings, and a lot more styling customization than I care to recount.

Thanks. I didn't know all this about the 93. I've had 1 but don't have one now. I'm driving a 92 245 right now and have others.

I agree overall about older cars but I don't find the pre-83 cars so easy to work on. CIS fuel injection is hateful. That's partly why I locked into the 85-up cars. I find the newer ones easier - but that could be because I never wanted to spend time to learn about the early ones.
--
85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

I tend to think the later the year the better. As long as you don't want a coupe, that is. Volvo was always continually working to improve the car, even in it's last year. I guess K-jet is doggedly simple, although a bit hard to work on if it doesn't work well, but the other newer fuel injection systems are all pretty similar in terms of complexity. The late LH 2.4 (3.1 on some manuals) does use a CPS, but other than the bad batch of original ones, the replacements all seem to work as well as the hall sensors in the earlier cars. The '93 R134a A/C system has adequate capacity to work with R134s, since it was designed to do so, and will work better than an earlier system retrofitted with R134a. The ABS isn't a super great ABS system, being a fairly early 3 channel system, but it's not particularly problem prone. Just get a Bentley and go through the diagnostic procedure if the ABS light ever comes on, odds are it will be something cheap like a fuse or a wheel sensor. And the ABS is a nice feature, although most people still like to claim they are better than the ABS is in modulating the brakes (although they can't modulate 3 channels, now can they?). Later cars (starting somewhere in the late 80's, I forget) got a bit more rust-proof.

And if nothing else, a '93 has fewer years on it.

And PS: They become much more fun with a turbo added into them!
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t

I have ABS on my truck and it's great but the earlier systems aren't.

More important, I don't want the extra complication. There isn't enough benefit for me to add that level of complexity - and bleeding them is a pain.

I don't care about the power relative to the additional turbo hardware. Although I've had 8-900 lbs in my 245 this week and last and I admit that it was doggy on hills. Well, more doggy than usual.

The net is: the basics to me include reliability, good MPG, seat belts, good brakes, safe steering, some stickiness in rain/ snow, a decent floor under the driver's seat, working wipers & washer, a working driver's door window, a fan that works on at least one speed - and I probably not going to fix the fan at all on my 86 244 as it always ends up being a full day. Otherwise, I don't care.

Thanks for the comments.

--
a few 1985-92 240s & 245s - parts cars & drivers

I don't have experience with every year, however my '88 240 wagon has 280,000 miles. It is all original except for the M47 transmission that I replaced two years ago. I learned the hard way to check the fluid level in it at every oil change. I drive her 500 miles a week.

Bob Graham
Columbus, NC
1965 PV544
1988 240 wagon

The only year I can think to stay away from is the '75 with the B-20 engine.

The rest are just as rock solid.

As far as ease to work on, I've found that my '80 245 and my '79 242 have been easier to deal with them the '86 244 my sister now drives. The early ones are a bit simpler. Later models do have more guts though.

I would recommend staying away from automatics made before '82, they have the old 3 speeds that don't have Overdrive. Also, the '81 from '87 models have bad wiring harnesses (as it sounds like you know). Early models don't have bad wiring harnesses.

Is there a reason why you are limiting your self to the later 240s? I happen to be partial to the early 240s. They have more character to me. The really early ones have 2 things going for them that I can think of: Better headlights, and no Air Mass Meters.
--
Formerly 'HearToTemptYou'

The main reason I like the newer ones is availability. Here in OH we don't see many pre-83 cars and the 83-85s are usually rough.

For me the game is having parts cars and using them to keep a few going. I used to stick to 86-88 cars but I'm looking at moving into the 89-93 CPS units. I have several of each and many parts interchange up & down eg. radiators, alternators, brake rotors& calipers, etc.
--
85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

77' All the way!!!!

I had a '77 244 a few years ago, it was a good car.

Only downside is that it was an automatic.
--
Formerly 'HearToTemptYou'