I use a three jaw puller to remove the ball joint on 200 and 700 series cars. It doesn't damage the rubber boot, and the parts can be re-used. I've never liked beating on parts to remove them.

John,

Nice to know. The tie rod end puller available for a free loan from Autozone works well, too.
--
Paul NW Indiana '89 740 Turbo 140,000

I'll put this POST in 'My FAVORITES' for the day I need a reference. Oiled the threads on the Puller, a must do.

I'm still wondering why my original front end is as tight as can be with 280k+ miles on it. I just put SNows on the other day and I shook and pushed everything around...tight.

--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Brilliance!

I was going to try the same... but with a two jaw puller on my 240's tie rod ends.

Thanks!
-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

Hi Ryan,

Autozone sells a nice little tie rod end tool for $10, it works well.

Bill

Hmmmm.... I'll give that a try if my puller doesn't do it. I'll know as soon as the weather gets a pinch warmer!

Thanks!
-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

Nice approach! Here in the "rust belt" I have had more trouble getting the ball joints out of the strut bodies than getting the stud out of the control arm. It usually takes several well placed hits with a 3lb hammer to get them out.

I have a tie rod end puller that I bought at Harbor Freight years ago that works great for ball joints as well as tie rod ends. It also does no damage to the boots. I think the pickle fork approach should be used as a last resort...

Nice pictures in your post!

--
Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 945t 210K mi

Hello Bruce:

No luck to date-- I had a difficult time hooking up with the guy who had the ECU, etc. When I did, it was the wrong ECU-- I have a -937 in my car, this was a -563, but from a '91 manual tranny 745t. When I installed it and reconnected the negative battery cable the electric fan came on, even without the key. That made me nervous, so I replaced the original ECU.

I also got a known good RSR from him-- he took it out of his car which he drove to meet me, as well as a power stage. He didn't have the noid light he promised.

I am starting to suspect the fuel system again-- I had cranked the car a bit, then pressed the Schrader valve-- it sprayed at first, but slowed to a trickle very quickly.

The weather hasn't been cooperative here lately, but I am hoping to have a crack at it tomorrow. One thing I want to try is to disconnect the fuel line going into the main pump and crank it to see if I am getting flow from the tank. The apparent intermittency on the fuel supply is giving me fits. If there is no flow, I will try to connect the main pump to a fuel jug with a length of fuel line to see if that gets things going again.

I am also going to see if the local parts chain has a loaner fuel gauge and noid light. It's times like this that I wish I was still living in the US-- I had to pay $220 + 14% tax for a Carter fuel pump that you can buy for $99 anywhere in the States!

Any other diagnostic suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

P.S. I saw your post about the remote starter-- does that approach require a heavy gauge wire? Being able to crank the car myself while under the hood would be great!
--
Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 945t 210K mi

P.S. I saw your post about the remote starter-- does that approach require a heavy gauge wire? Being able to crank the car myself while under the hood would be great!

No–nothing special. Anything like the regular Ign. Switch wire that's plugged to the solenoid.

Be careful if the key is on. It just MIGHT start one of these days!

P.S. Find yourself a noid light. NAPA, etc.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Hello Bruce:

I got a 'noid light for the Bosch injection as a loaner from the local Autozone-equivalent the next town over. The guy I talked to on the phone said they had fuel pressure gauges to loan, and that turned out to be inaccurate-- the cheapest was $70, and the lines looked like they might not be able to get onto the bottom-facing Schrader valve. I opted not to get one now.

The 'noid flashes on all 4 injector lines, so from an electrical perspective the injectors are pulsing-- whether there is any fuel getting through them is an open question...

This suggests I don't need an ECU, the RSR and power stage and injector ballasts must be functioning too. I guess with a 'noid light you don't really know the amplitude of the signals at the injectors, though. I don't know how brightly the 'noid should flash.

It is getting late and cold here, so I am done for the evening. I was wondering about an unreliable fuel supply, possibly getting choked at the tank pump. I pulled the input to the main and put the line into an oil drain pan. After a short crank there was about an inch of gas in the bottom of a windshield washer jug when I poured out of the drain pan, so I am getting some flow from the in-tank pump. That also implies that the fuel system relay is doing what it is supposed to. Having spark means that the coil, the distributor cap, rotor and RPM sensor are working too.

All this has me thinking I am back to the fuel system. After pulling the supply fuel line I opened the line at the fuel rail supply connection, but didn't have anything to go from the 17mm compression fitting to a hose barb fitting. I might be able to get one tomorrow. That way I could look at the flow on the rail supply side.

This all points to either the main pump, the fuel pressure regulator or the mechanical operation of the injectors. The less likely, but possible case is that some of the ignition/injection signals are sub-par and keeping the system from functioning.

Any thoughts?

--
Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 945t 210K mi

Glad to see that you're troubleshooting again!!

It might be best start a new thread though. I am in agreement that the injectors should be injecting SOME fuel, and that the computer is good.

I'd try to do a compression test, or use [Starting Fluid / Gas Rag / Propane] next to see if it starts.

Goatman

I will post a new thread on this, but I wanted to mention that I also tried starting fluid with no luck-- I removed the intake hose at the throttle body, open the butterfly and sprayed in a 4 sec shot of starting fluid. I replaced the hose and tried to start it.

Thanks for the post!
--
Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 945t 210K mi