My 92 245 clunks when the front wheels go over small bumps. It's worst of rough dirt roads; it doesn't happen at highways speeds (or I don't hear it); and there's no noise on severe bumps.

All bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints are fine. Steering rack is tight. Sway bar and stabilizer link bushings are tight.

I believe it's bad struts. Fine. But what is it in the struts that's making the noise? I read through several threads here about it. Multiple cases where folks replaced the struts and still had noise: bad or incorrectly shimmed upper bushings?

So: what's actually making the noise in the struts? The bushings seem tight ie. I can't find anything that's loose. I can't duplicate the noise by pushing down on the front fender.

I don't mind replacing the struts - I just don't want to do it and find out it was something else. How can I tell when struts are bad?

Any recommendations on a spring compressor? I went to Sears but the stores locally don't have them. I assume I can order online.
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

I removed the rear control-arm bushings and they were bad: the rubber had de-vulcanized from the sleeve and removing the sleeve required opening it with a chisel and twisting it off with a pipe wrench.

I replaced with some good ones from a parts car. The clunks are mostly (95%) gone. The car seems to handle better but I don't care much about that.

The final part of the job isn't fun: Bentley tells you to leave the bushing nut loose, install the cup, lower the car, bounce and roll the car around to settle it in, and then tighten the nut. It has to be done with a short box wrench without jacking the car.

Several folks suggested these bushings. Thanks to all for your prompt and considerable help.
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

This is so the rubber is not stressed when the car is at ride height. I have always done it by putting jack-stands under the axle, suspension is still compressed and you have a bit more room to wiggle around. Same way with front suspension bushings...

That's what I thought - point was to remove the stress and put the arms in a road position.

I initially tried what you suggested with jack stands but each time I raised the car up I could hear the rubber creaking.

So I finally just lowered the car (it was on a lift) onto the stands and skipped the rolling back and forth that Bentley highlighted.
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

I just bounce (with gusto) the car several times once on the stands are in-place. Oh, and next time you do these make the bushing tool that is often mentioned. Works fantastic, if you add air tools to it changing the bushings is almost fun! ;-)

Which bushing tool is this? I gotta do bushings in the spring!

Thanks!
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

http://www-ese.fnal.gov/People/wilcer/volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm

I have the same clunking problem on my 1990 240.

I too was looking at the struts/strut mounts.

I'm curious how the rear control arm bushing experience went?

Did it work?

"<.i>My 92 245 clunks when the front wheels go over small bumps. It's worst of rough dirt roads; it doesn't happen at highways speeds (or I don't hear it); and there's no noise on severe bumps."

I got exactly the same symptoms with new Bilstein Touring (grade) rear shocks about 4 years ago. Many others reported the same experience. In my case, it was internal to the shock, not an oversize upper bolt hole as noted by some users.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

i just bought a 87 wagon, a california car but anyway i had the same problem, i had to change the ball joints but the clunk on mine was cured by replacing sway bar bushings, the ones on the frame too

Thanks. I replaced the sway bar & link bushings 1st as 2 looked bad. No change. I'm going to replace the lower rear a-frame bushings Sun/Mon.
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

The front A-arms (forgot their proper name) have a long, rearward extension that fits into "cups" (held by 3 bolts to the firewall or bulkhead). Inside is a large bushing -- when this fails, the extension just bangs everytime you hit a bump in the road as the A-arm is deflected rearward.

Consider replacing this bushing (especially in "poly") -- it's an easy job!

I looked for the little clunks on my '90 all the while I owned it. Turned out that lots of things were clunking, and every repair helped just a little. I never did get completely rid of all clunks before selling it.

IPD used to have the instructions for loosening and retorqeuing the subframe in their catalog. I think they still post it on their website.

My new rack/tie rods helped a little. New struts helped a little. Bushings helped a little. Ball joints and subframe tightening didn't help in my case.

The surprise was how much nicer the car drove with new struts. The old struts didn't bounce noticeably, but the car felt much tighter more 'sure footed' on curves with new struts.

I have one of the Craftsman spring compressors and think its one of the better ones made. I've heard of the engine crossmember needing to be re-torqued causing clunking. ( never had one loosen on me though.) The rear control arm bushings are a common failure and are pretty hard to check while in the vehicle.

Sears has several - their own and KD. Remember any particulars about the one you have?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=spring+compressor&gobutton.x=0&gobutton.y=0&gobutton=find
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

I have the Craftsman or OTC that Sears sells. It is also just like the one IPD sells just cheaper. Dan

Sears has 2. They look alike in the pics and have the same basic description.

One is called "OTC Compressor, Macpherson. Strut Spring Sears item #00971466000 Mfr. model #7294 $58.99".

The other is "Craftsman Strut Spring Compressor Tool with Built-In Safety Pins Sears item #00947057000 Mfr. model #90500 $54.99" and says in its description that it's for struts.

I think you have the cheaper (but same) one. I'm going to order it now.

Thanks again
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

If you have Autozones in your area, they will loan certain tools for free. I have a set of their spring compressors right now. It cost $43.00 to borrow the tool, they return the money when you return the tool. A great situation for when you need something you don't use that often. Good luck!

Thanks. I'll get the Craftsman.

Rear control-arm bushings: the ones in the triangular mounting bracket bolted up to the sub frame? They look good but I'll drop that housing and double-check.
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

Chances are the rear control arm bushing has failed. I have replaced them on 5- 240's w about 150K on each. Dan

My vote is on the rear control arm bushings as well based on your description of the noise. How do you know yours are fine? You can't tell that they are bad by a visual inspection or by even prying and tugging on things. They are easy to replace, all you need is some wrenches and a hammer to pound them out and back in, once you unbolt the three bolts holding the rear bracket to the frame with the bushing in it. You don't have to remove the entire control arm or anything else for that matter. Easy fix and it will drive nice and quiet afterward.
Charles

Thanks for all the replies on the rear bushings.

How do I know they're good? They're not cracked; they don't move when I pry on them; there are no rub spots on the metal from something moving; they look fine.

It looks like an easy job so I'll pull them out and see. How do I tell if they're bad?
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

My point exactly, mine looked fine too, but were bad and clunking. When you get them out, you will see the rubber separating from the steel sleeve. They really are easy to change out, much to my pleasant surprise. I bought the Boge bushes and thought they were nice, left the old front bushes alone.
Charles

Thanks. I'm stripping a 240 now (so as to scrap it) so I'll pull the rear bushings and learn what to expect.
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85-92 240s/ 245s - parts cars & drivers

If that's the case you might just want pull the brackets the bushings are mount in from the parts car. You can then change the bushings ahead of time as the bushings are mounted in the brackets.