Couple items I did not see mentioned that may be overlooked...

When removing the bottom damper...check to ensure that the bonding between the damper has not failed...

Also, note the position of the (chamfered) washer when removing it...the beveled side faces towards the timing belt...!! Bad news if you inadvertantly re-install it backwards...!

When re-installing the damper...ensure that the key is aligned properly and the pin is seated completely!!! Don't wanna shear that pin off...!!

Tensioner hold back "tool"...I've used a small screwdriver numerous ocassions...

a pointer (cheap insurance) if I may....before you start...check your water pump weep hole...if there is a hint of fluid 'seeping'....now is a great oppportunity to replace it...otherwise it's a PITA to remove all that stuff again to repalce a water pump...

I've purchased and used the "special crank holding tool" 4 times thus far...works great...yep...my 760T has over 300,000 miles now...pretty inexpensive from FCP years ago.,.I think like $25...

If you're you're picking up volvo tools, the OEM crank seal tool is a bargain. See this post http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1090972 and http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1241881 . You may be able to order the 9732 part of the cam tool separately and much cheaper. It comes with a fancy bolt contraption that probably pushes the price up.


I think you can order the holding tool from SPX for about the same price as FCPGROTON . The tool can also be used to hold the cam from turning if you take it off to replace the cam seal.

I managed to do OK on the cam and intermediate seals with a PVC cap and a hole drilled through it. Use the bolt and washer to slowly draw the seal in. I also have the cam seal tool. It runs about $50 from SPX.

--
Paul NW Indiana '89 740 Turbo 140,000

From a long term tool perspective, get a good 1/2" breaker bar and a length of black iron pipe to slide over it as a "cheater bar". I got whatever brand of 1/2" breaker bar that Lowe's sells (ahhh...Kobalt!), and in their plumbing section they had a perfect length of pipe (maybe 20" long? had spiffy plastic covers over the threaded ends) that fit perfectly over the breaker bar and gives extra leverage which is useful if you're a string bean like me! This is such a convenient set up that I've used for LOTS of things (like lugnuts the tire shop overtightened), especially on suspension bits under the car where your leverage is limited because you're on your back.

As for sockets, see if you can find a set of them that will be useful for other jobs, because once you do a timing belt, you'll find yourself tackling other jobs down the road. Pricewise, you get a lot more bang for your buck buying a set of sockets vs. individually. Why does it seem that every 1/2" socket set that Craftsmen sells is 12-point? I recently killed two birds with one stone, and replaced my missing 1/2" sockets (from several moves over the last few years) with a set of Craftsman 1/2" impact sockets. They're 6-pt and can be used on both my new impact wrench and on the breaker bar.

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 295k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

Sorry for the blank post.
The crank holder tool is available from FCP Groton, and I've found it pays for itself (no hassle, I've done the rope trick too).
To remove the cam and intermediate shaft sprockets, I've had good luck using a strap wrench to hold them while I remove the bolt; cut a piece of the old timing belt to fit around the sprocket, this will protect the sprocket teeth when you apply the strap wrench--still takes a bit of care,though. Doing this its hard not to move them, but you can always line them back up with the marks even if you do.
As for the all the seal installation -- PVC plumbing pieces have worked for me great, just take your seals to your hardware store and find the size that will do the job -- just under the outer diameter of the seal. Be sure to pack grease in the back of the seal where the spring seats, then when you tap the seals in it won't come out. Oil the seal lips and the shaft before installing them. Mark your pvc tools "Cam" and "Crank" and put them away for the next time you do the job.
Good luck. Its a great feeling after doing this job to have the engine start right up. Check for leaks. Remember to re-set the timing belt tensioner after running the engine a little while, then again at 500mile as others suggest.

Here is the answer for the 7th question "7. do I need a special holder tool to properly remove/torque the camshaft and intermediate shaft nuts? (like Item 1 above)"

Open the valve cover. Use a large pair of locking pleirs to hold th cam shaft (put a few layers of terry cloth between them). If you're lucky, you can loosen it with a regular socket wrench. If not zip it off with an air wrench. Do the same for instalation. The locking pleirs will cut into your shat a little bit. Anyone has better ideas? Erwin

1. Seriously consider the "rope trick" instead of the special tool.

2. I think there's a good section on tools in the FAQ. My preference is Craftsman...they're nice, but not nice enough for someone to steal. An 18" breaker bar is a good length (long enough to get leverage, but still fits in some tight spaces). Find some pipe that fits over the handle for a cheater.

3. Elring are good seals. Buy extras as insurance against ripping/rolling the new seal. Also consider getting a timing cover gasket (many here call it the "seal carrier gasket," as it is more descriptive). You probably won't need it, but it's nice to have if the crank seal is a pain.

4. & 5. Pipe works fine. Even with a good seal tool, you'll sometimes ruin a new seal. Buy extras.

6. You should already have a set of Allen wrenches (hex keys). The 3mm or 1/8" should work fine as a pin if you don't have any finish nails around.

7. Hopefully somebody else can chime in on this one...I don't have a "good" way of doing this.

Good luck with the project.

I did my first timing belt last yr.
I decided to buy a cheapo impact air tool instead of the crank holder, I have a 7 gal compressor and I use that combo a lot more often than the crank tool.
the chinese impact gun was $24, so I got an air ratchet wrench too, it works wonders on the alternator bolt to get the belt slackened off.

I got some very simple direction from a mechanic,
it was a LOT simpler than everything I've read.

Remove belts and fan, remove top half of timing belt cover.
Place socket on crank pulley and rest ratchet handle on frame (on a rag), disconnect coil and blip the starter for less than a second, you can then remove the crank bolt with your fingers. He was right.

Remove crank pulley , lower half of belt cover , cut the old timing belt off .
keep crank sprocket/spacer washers oriented properly as you put it down so it goes back the same. Pull on timing belt and insert a nail to retain it.

Install new belt, release tensioner and button it all up.
Just keep the belt tight from the cam down to the crank, any slack is taken up by the tensioner. Reinstall lower belt cover and crank, test run engine at this point for a few seconds, shut it down and finish closing it all up.

The impact gun is used to zip the crank bolt back on.
Its been a yr and no problems with the crank bolt, my 740 is auto transmission.

What I did have trouble with was the 4 10mm nuts that retain the fan, the manual says replace, but I re-used them and threw the fan off on the highway.
FCP sells those 4 nuts and the studs they thread onto, now I know why.
If you re-use the old nuts at least use loctite.

Anyway the reason I really liked this guys method is theres no requirement to bring the engine too TDC or bother with timing marks on the belt, just cut the old off and install the new , nothing is gonna move by accident, you can't turn the cam or crank shafts by hand, its not like you can nudge it out of timing.
Took me about 2 hrs, I think I could do it the second time in 45 minutes.