|
I've had the pleasure of releasing a seat back when the latch release mechanism was somehow completely disabled. As I recall, I removed the 3 screws holding the "bolt" to the side of the car. This lets the seat fold. Not fun on a hot day when working from inside the back seat itself.
If removing the "bolt", be aware that the screws anchor into threads that 'float' on the side of the body, to allow for adjustment of the position of the bolt. So pay attention to its position before removing so you can get it back to approximately the same place.
Instead, you may be able to pry the latch away from the bolt with a largish flat blade screwdriver. I never tried, but maybe one could.
Or even better - if even a bit of the latch remains in the recess in center of rear of seat back, you can try putting a small torx screwdriver tip in the hole and press it upwards. That's what I do now on our cars.
It's also possible to harvest an unbroken seat back and transplant it to your car.
I've saved links to a few threads on this topic.
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1070861&show_all=1
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1236516
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1125884
I've also saved these notes which I received by email from a helpful brickboarder - I apologize for not remembering the screen name:
Notes on removing/replacing wagon seat back:
1. Removal requires that the seat back be released from the latches and can be folded down. If it is already down, fine. If not you will need to get an off-set Phillips screw driver [under $2] and remove the latch brackets above the wheel well. BEFORE removing latch bracket make some alignment marks to help in step 7.Alternate: Remove plastic release handle on back of seat back. Use pliers and pull on the wire rod one side at a time that attaches to the latch while someone pushes that side forward and stuffs a rag between the latch and seat back so it doesn't re latch. Repeat on other side. Wire rod doesn't always work so you may be forced to loosen latch bracket
2. Pull the seat BOTTOM out of the vehicle. This will give you access to the underside of the seat back. It comes out easily by first tilting the seat bottom up, then releasing it from the grooves.
3. Now you are ready to release the pivots [one on each side] that hold the seat back to the bottom front of the wheel well. Remove 1 or 2 upholstery hog rings on the bottom closest to the wheel well. There is galvanized metal along the bottom. What you are looking for is an access hole about the size of a nickel on the bottom edge, about 3 inches inboard.
4. How it works: There is a bracket on the wheel well. A spring loaded pin with a head about the size of a dime in the seat holds the pin into a recess in the bracket. The spring tension is inboard. Use a medium blade screw driver with a 6"- 8" reach to feel for the pin and push the pin outboard while gently lifting the seat back forward at about a 45 degree angle. The spring loaded pin's outboard movement is only about 5/8-3/4 inch.Have a rag ready to place between the pin and the bracket so it doesn't reattach. Be careful not to tear the upholstery on the pin. Repeat on the other side.
5. Re-attaching the new seat back: First I put a little lube like spray silicon or plumber's grease on the bracket and pivot pin just because... Then I put some on the latch and spray lubricant on the release handle.
6.Two people needed: Have someone help you guide the other side into the bracket so the pin doesn't rip the upholstery and voila, the seat back is on.
7.Adjust the latch brackets. Use the marks made in step one as a guide. I start by having them loose and tightening one screw just enough to hold latch, then release and see how close I am, repeat until latch is aligned properly on both sides and seat releases easily and latches securely. Tighten all screws.
8. Congratulate yourself on a job well-done and have a glass of your favorite beverage.
Hope this helps
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Follow-up question:
Ref: "When/if you go to the junk yard to find your replacement seat back, note the difference in the seat bottom attachment for pre-86 wagons."
Sven's Maintainer wrote:
Okay - -
Different seat (bottom) attachment for pre-'86.
But the backs are interchangeable - if I like the fold-down latch and the color etc, it's good to go?
Answer:
Yep, you are good to go. I personally would try for the newest, an 84 or 85 [and check to see if 86 had the black metal handle] because of issues related to aging of the foam etc. If you want to be safe, first spot a donor vehicle with one you want at a wrecking yard, confirm the price, then go remove yours first to get the hang of it. You will be experienced when you remove the one from the donor and it will go faster and reduce possibility of damage. That's how I learned. In my case I reupholstered my entire car ⏤GL with leather that was torn] so the condition of the upholstery didn't matter. There may be slight variations in color from year to year even with tan, blue etc.
Good luck!
And get you son to help you - he'll appreciate it!
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.
|
