Hi all:

Most of you have managed to change out starters on 240's and the posts here have noted the difficulty in the upper bolt. This is my first starter swap and when I got the 245 up on high supports it did not look too bad. The lower bolt went down easily as most have noted, when I thought I would have it easy with the upper bolt I was WRONG!

I have come from underneath along the trans tunnel using an 18mm 6 pt deep with a universal and extensions. I have tried both 3/8 and 1/2 drives but can not get enough torque to budge the bolt loose.

Then I tried impact sockets/uniersal swival and extensions. I have 15" impact extension which drops down enough next to the auto shifter linkage to allow my 18v 1/2" impact driver (300lbft tq) to fit. I have tried the set up with 3/8 and 1/2 drives (3/8 fits in the narrow access). The sockets are 6 point. So far nothing other than some (minor) wear at the hex bolt edges. I do not want to push it too much in fear of rounding off. I even tried to break it loose by a quick forward rotation and then reverse, without any luck.

Some have posted to use 25"+ of extensions? Do they access the drive end of the extension set up back past the trans sump/filter? It appears that the trans linkage would be in the way.

I have not given up yet on what should be s simple task and need some help how to solve this issue.

Should I take the throtle body off and misc. hoses and put a propane torch to the bolt end on the ear of the starter? I don't know if this would help as the bot and ear are in contact with the cast iron flange from the engine.

Any suggestions? I am FRUSTRATED but not beat yet.

Thanks in advance..

This 245 is the wifemoblile and I've got the usual pressure!

Just went thru this job yesterday afternoon. Found the top bolt frozen so put the bottom back in. Then used 1/2 socket with ujoint and enough extentions to get it over the shifter linkage and put the ratchet on the trany crossmember. Used the crossmember as fulcrum to push against and used my foot. From the sound of the crack I thought the universal had broke. Then I put my B18 starter in. KP

I don't remember how I got this one off, but it was either with my air wrench or a cheater bar.

I wonder if this right of passage should be added to the Festivus "Feats of Strength"?

If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 252K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

http://kitsapsun.com/news/2007/nov/10/sk-man-hurts-himself-trying-to-loosen-lug-nut/

i dont see how you can have so many problems getting that bolt out. besides that how did the starter go bad? i have had cars with 200,000 plus miles on them, and the starter never went bad. dont get the torch out, and dont take the intake apart, that will be the beginning of the end for your car. if you have problems like this, it is best to consulat a professional mechanic, before make the problem worse.

Thank you farm boy, damn that was funny! I have not laughed that hard in a long time.

Farm boy:

I heard about that guy on the radio.

I might be dumb, not as dumb as that guy! I would never use a 12g with 00 buck shot. I would use a Barrett 50cal and stand back and whack the entire Lincoln.

I would never aim at my 240's! We all love the frustration and fun in keeping them alive and well.

So much for your "fun"! what about your expert reply to solve this issue?

Thanks

I have always removed them with a shallow 6pt 3/8" drive socket with integrated U-joint, and extension and step up to 1/2" drive, and a breaker bar. But then, I live in Sunny California where my cars never rust...

That is a blind hole so you can't hit the back end of it with penetrating oil, right?

Striking the head of a bolt as if to drive it into the hole is often helpful for breaking it loose. Can you get a punch/bar in there such that you can give it a decent whack in the head with a 2 lb hammer?

Farm Boy:

Many thanks for the wisdom. I had alteady used PB Blaster and thought my next try I would whack the bolt (not witht he 50cal), but with a brass punch/hammer to try to loosen the chmeical (oxidatiion) bond on the bolt threads. The car is on jack stands outside and today it is below 30F. Doing this on my back on a few sheets of cardboard in this weather is not my favorite chore!

I have tried both 3/8 and 1/2'. While the 3/8 fits better in the limited space, even with extensions the trans filler tube or the trans linkage is in the way or the angle is too steep to generate sufficient torque to break it loose. I have not given up so do not worry. I will not shoot it!

I just thought of a new possibile solution this morning (you know we all are always thinking about our Volvo issues). I am considering taking a cheap 6 pt 18mm box wrench heating it and bneding it to allow me to offset it in order to gain full access from the top. I will need to weld an extension lenth as well to get a grip and torque. The movement may on be 1/2" but that ahould be enough to use a hammer up top on the extended box handle to break it loose.

By the way for anyone interested : Be careful when trying the 30=" extension set up from beneath as the auto trans linkage is in the way and you can damage the OD solinoid if not carefull as well as the linkage itself.

Well Farm Boy, out there in sunny CA in Sacramento you sure are lucky to have all those PNP's as an endless and cheap source of no rust Volvo parts! I have been to them and those PNP's are a Brickboard members nivana!

Later

You might be on to something with bending a box end to the angle you need. I have used some of those cheap wrenches from India for fashioning what I need. They are a soft alloy and bend quite easily.

One word of caution would be to think about how you might injure yourself if the wrench breaks. They are not good at holding up to high levels of torque. Be aware of what your landing areas might be if it suddenly lets go and pad them or wear good gloves (or both). Good luck.

Randy

Upper starter bolt? Getting this one loose took me three hours! I think the series of tools I used went in this order. A 3/8 drive socket, 3/8 drive high-quality universal joint, about 1 foot of 3/8 drive extensions, a 3/8 to ½ adapter, about one foot of ½ inch drive extensions, ½ inch drive breaker bar, about 1 foot of pipe. The series of extensions ran alongside the transmission. All four wheels of the car were sitting up on 10 inches of solid fresh lumber. The car was in gear, emergency brake on, and wheels chocked. While I loosened the bolt, my friend held a wrench on the nut from the front side under the hood. My intake was off at the time. I don’t know if this helps, but I hope so.
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Thanks for all the help. DougC 1981 242, IPD bars and Turbo wheels, M46 :::::: 1993 245, B230 NA L-Block, M47, Turbo bars::::::1984 760, B23FT, M46

Welcome to the nightmare of 240 starter bolts.I tried all of previous threads to no avail.This is what I had to do ,cut hole in firewall for direct shot at bolt even with 1/2 inch drive air wrench could not budge bolt ,I cut off bolt with dremal tool.Reinstalled new bolt and used anti seize on it.Patched hole with sheetmetal and self tapping screws and caulking .Good luck

Sounds like you are trying to repeat the problem I had on my first starter but I couldn't get the upper bolt no matter how many extensions I used. Here is the solution I finally used:

1: Push any wires between the back lip of the valve cover and the firewall up and out of the way, then lay a towel over the back lip of the valve cover.

2: Put a jack under the transmission cross member in the middle. Remove the two bolts on each end of the cross member that go into the floor boards.

3: Lower the jack under the cross member and the tail of the trans will start to drop down, keep going until the valve cover hits the firewall (jack goes slack).

4: Now you have a straight shot at the upper starter bolt, so have at it!

5: Remove old, install new starter, jack the trans back up an put the cross member bolts back in. NOTE: MAKE SURE your engine mounts are in good shape and not split. Don't worry about the engine falling on you but rather the pain of getting the engine back in the proper location to get everything lined up.

jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Use 1/2 inch unless you want to break the ratchet, socket and or extension. You will need somewhere between 30 and 35 inches of extensions to get a good shot at it. Dan

Dan:

Thanks for the reply. The 1/2 inch seems to have an interference fit, but I think I can wiggle it in. 30-36 inches of extension will take the drive point beyond the trans cross menber support? Is the correct line of sight & extensions between the trans tunnel and to the left (looking front)of the trans sump/filter?

Thanks

Allan

That is correct, you may need a wobble joint at the socket/first extension to fit correctly. I have done it just in front of the cross member also but you need at least 30".
Dan

put the lower one in as per torque spec, then try to remove the upper bolt. it's bound to be hard to remove when it's the only bolt holding it on.

weather:

I guess you are ritht as the misalignment in the top bolt could cause it to bind or hinder it from breaking loose. I will tighten up the lower bolt to help if only slightly.

Perhaps I should break out the air impact with 500-600 ftlbs rev torque. The car is on stands a long way from my compressor, but I guess I could rig a long 150 ft. air house to the location.

Thanks

Allan

A good squirt of PB Blaster and let it soak in for a while is a good plan and use a long breaker bar with the extensions, been there done that and it went with a loud snap.
Regards,
Checkpoint Charlie