Hello All,

In replacing my downpipe, two of the three exhaust manifold to downpipe studs came out along with the attached copper nuts.

What is the best way for these two studs to be firmly installed into the manifold so they don't come out?

I don't think there's enough room to use doubled nuts on the studs for insertion as I recall there's not enough room to deal with inserting an open end wrench into the space.

I have red and blue locktite. Would that work?

If I crank a doubled nut with my socket, when I try to get nut no 1 off, I'm certain I'll pull the stud out again cause nut no 1 and nut no 2 won't easily separate.

Any suggestions as I'm sure lots of you have BTDT.

Thanks much,

Marty Wolfson
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93, 244 141k, 93 244 - 235K (Injured awaiting repair), 93 245 - 172K, 99 v-70 - 112K

Do a google search for "stud installation tool" and search for the best deal out there. These thread onto the end of the stud and have a set screw on the end. You tighten against the set screw and crank in the stud. When you're done, you loosen the set screw and off comes the tool. Definitely better than fighting the old stop-nut technique. Here's an example of one:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4920/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Stud-Installation-Tool.aspx


I've not been able to find anyone online selling the 10mm studs you need as far as any of our favorite Volvo parts suppliers go. You could go to the dealer and order them - probably won't be too horrible. Or, you could call around to your local hardware stores to see if they have any good quality metric studs. Take the old ones with you so you get the right thread pitch.

Hey, anyone ever try one of these for removing studs?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-stud-extractor-94640.html

I just bought one, but I haven't tried it out on anything yet.

Just reassemble: New studs, new nuts. FCP Groton has them.

Having studs that will come out again (on "demand", not accidentally) is good in my opinion. Could potentially make future disassembly easier.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 295k, Regina, 23/21mm turbo sway bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

The studs I see on FCP Groton look like the manifold to block studs (8mm?).

The manifold to header pipe is 10mm.
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My manifold to header pipe studs came out as well.

The point of the threads look like they have sheared or corroded (?) away - where the point would be it is fairly flat.
Are the stud threads that mount into the exhaust manifold pointed or flat?

Does anyone have a manifold to header pipe stud size replacement specification?
I'm assuming I can replace these with bolts.

I had a suggestion that the manifold threads needed to be tapped to clear them out - if they are correct in thinking the corrosion of the studs has clogged the female threads.
I suppose to get a pointed thread replacement that will be necessary anyway.

1988 244 DL

Ryan is so right here, as long as the studs wont self loosen it's WAAAY better to have studs that wind out when you take the bolts out than studs that are all corroded and one cannot shift them out the block at some future date.
Regards,
Checkpoint Charlie

In the past I have never really worried about 'cranking down' on the Studs into the Head. Put them in finger tight ( or wrench tight) and when you put the exhaust back on the nut will give tension on the Head to stud threads so it will all stay together.

--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm