Hello all, I'd like to share how I integrated an iPod directly into the 1993 240 stock sound system. Why keep the stock system? It's my sister's car and she wants everything original.

The 1992 and 1993 240's have a separate radio and amplifier, connected by a 6 pin DIN cable. I designed a wiring harness to connect in between these two, adding iPod as a second input to the amp. An automatic source switcher (the PIE MPSS-4) sends iPod audio to the amp when the radio is turned off and vice versa. This required two DIN-to-RCA/remote harness to be soldered (thanks Mark!).

The harness:


The iPod adapter used (the PIE RCAPOD) converts an iPod dock connector into RCAs, power, and ground. Since this bypasses the iPod volume control, an RCA level control (the Peripheral PRC1) "volume knob" was used. This fit perfectly into the radio faceplate's blank right side. After a little dremmel work and some screw spacers, the volume knob screwed into the original radio mounts and poked through the face plate.

The volume knob mount:


The good thing about this is, the harness is designed to allow input from any RCA source (not just iPod) and output to any aftermarket amplifier. So, if I stop being lazy and tear out the lower dash, adding a new amp would be simple (except I don't know how to run power and ground lines from the battery).

For now, it works like a champ, and the iPod sounds much better than the radio (through replaced Kenwood speakers). This project was a fun challenge. If anyone's interested in more information, pinouts, parts, etc, just post here.

The final install, using ProClip custom 240 mount, holding Treo 650 and iPod nano:



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- FireFox31

Here's write-up part one for this project; the parts list and how to build the harness. Sorry it's so long, I got carried away.


Parts list:
Radio/Amp connection DIY:
A - 6 pin DIN male connector, Item DIN 6 PIN - $3
B - 6 pin DIN female connector, Item INL DIN6J - $3
C - 2x stereo RCA interconnect cables, any length
Left and right glued together, male RCA on both ends
D - Strand of 18 gauge wire, same length as RCA cables

Radio/Amp connection pre-made:
ABCD1 - Quickbrick Motorsports Aftermarket HU Adapter Cable - $35
ABCD2 - Quickbrick Motorsports Aftermarket AMP Adapter Cable - $40

iPod connector and switcher:
E - Precision Instrument Electronics MPSS-4 source switcher - $38
F - Precision Instrument Electronics RCA POD iPod to RCA/power cable - $28
G - Peripheral PRC1 "volume knob" - $19
H - 2x RCA Y cables - 2 female to 1 male - $5/each

Wiring:
I - 2x 3M #804 16-18 gauge tap-ins
J - 5' strand (?) of 14 gauge wire and a ring terminal
K - Soldering iron, solder, heat shrink tubing, heat gun, hot glue and hot glue gun

Fastening:
L - 2x screw spacers (from computer motherboard)
M - Dremel tool


6 pin DIN radio/amp cable pinouts:
I AM NOT 1000% SURE THESE ARE RIGHT. Before finalizing your install, confirm each RCA goes to the right speaker by connecting one at a time. I had a friend solder the RCA cables to the DIN connectors, and since the RCA cable wiring was colored wrong (??), the front left and right were swapped in both the male and female DIN.

The pins are numbered on both the radio and the amp cable; look closely. Looking at the radio, pin 6 is in the middle, pin 1 is at 2 o'clock, continuing clockwise to pin 5 at 10 o'clock.
1 - Front Right
2 - Front Left
3 - Rear Right
4 - Ground for all four RCAs
5 - Rear Left
6 - Amp remote turn on - 12V


The harness:
Let's start from the amp and work our way to the radio and iPod input. Please also reference the PDF diagram and the harness photograph. We'll work left to right on both the PDF and photo.

The amp (located behind the ash tray in the lower center console) connects to the radio with a 6 pin DIN cable. This cable carries the four audio channels and the amp remote lead, which turns the amp on when the radio puts 12V on it. You can build a cable to convert this to RCAs, or you can try buying one from Quickbrick Motorsports. I spoke to Greg at QBM's and he says my pinouts match his adapter cables. If this is true, BUY HIS, because building one is a pain and dangerously error prone.

To DIY the amp/RCA cable: Cut a stereo RCA cable in half and cut the 18 gauge wire to a similar length. When stripping the bare ends, strip extra off the RCA grounding shrouds. Remove the female DIN cover and feed the five wires through it; don't forget! Somehow twist all four RCA grounding shrouds together; they all must be soldered to pin 4. Solder the 18 gauge wire to pin 6. IF THIS WIRE TOUCHES THE AUDIO/GROUND LINES, IT WILL BLOW OUT YOUR RADIO AND IPOD! Actually, it just causes the iPod to no longer charge and breaks the radio's fade/balance; it happened to me. Solder the audio pins according to the pinouts above. Cover the entire mess in hot glue so lines never cross, then slide the shroud back in place.

Before connecting things to the MPSS-4, check if you have a defective one. See the Problems section below.

Connect this amp/RCA cable to the MPSS-4 output lines. It doesn't matter how you connect the RCAs, as long as you do it the same in all three places. I used front right = red, front right = white, rear right = yellow, rear left = black; don't be fooled by the incorrect colors in the photo. Solder the amp/RCA cable to the blue wire.

To connect the radio to the switch, create another DIN/RCA cable using the procedure above and the male DIN connector, or buy one from Quickbrick Motorsports (though I haven't confirmed that theirs works). Connect its RCAs to the long input RCA cables on the switch (source 2, though it's not labeled), matching the same colors as for the output cable. Solder the switch's yellow wire to the amp remote lead from the radio.

Attaching the iPod to the switch takes a few steps. The PRC1 volume control is needed since the RCA POD dock connector sends audio at full volume, ignoring the volume setting on the iPod. Since the RCA POD and PRC1 have only left and right RCA, you'll need to use the Y cables to split them into front and rear right, and front and rear left. Connect the PRC1 output to the short input RCA cables (source 1, again, not labeled) on the switch using the Y's. If the Y has red/white ends, pretend red is front and white is rear. Ignore my photo here. Connect the RCA POD to the PRC1 inputs.

Final soldering: Solder the MPSS-4 orange and gray wire together. Twist together the red wires of the switch and RCA POD and solder them to a short piece of wire. This will be used to tap in to the stock radio harness switched 12V line. Repeat this junction for the two ground wires, but: Use a short piece of wire if you'll use the 3M tap-ins into the stock radio harness. Use a long wire if you'll connect it to a ring terminal which will screw to a grounding point at the base of the center console. See the Problems section below regarding ground loop.

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- FireFox31

"The 1992 and 1993 240's have a separate radio and amplifier, connected by a 6 pin DIN cable"

How to detect 86 Volvo has a seperate radio and amplifier or not?

I need to deal with the Sony-CD too.

Thanks very much.

If you have a Sony CD player installed now, then it doesn't matter if you have a built in amp. The Sony CD player likely has a built in amp.

If you have not yet installed the Sony CD player, then pull out the stock radio and look at the back. If you see a black round cable, then that is going to the amp. In that case, you should take apart the lower center console to access the amp and disconnect the rectangular connector which goes to the speakers. Then, buy a wiring harness from Crutchfield to convert that connector into bare wires (power and speakers) suitable for your Sony CD.

If you pull out the stock radio and don't see the black round cable, then you don't have an amp. The rectangular connector going to the radio would then carry the power and speaker wires. A harness from Crutchfield would connect to that, making it easier to connect the Sony CD.

You may also need an antenna adapter, but I don't think so. Good luck.
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- FireFox31

The amp would be down at the bottom of the center console. Most of the DL's do not have amps that year. At least most I have seen do not. You can slip the radio out and look at the connector. If you have Yellow White/White and Gray/Gray White wires going to the connector, those are some of the speaker wires and you do not have an amp most likely.

I did a Sony install, twice. First time to replace that crummy busted factory unit, the next time to put a newer Sony that had an Aux Input. Did not have the IPOD when installing the first unit. Still have the wiring notes if you need them.

I would avoid the FM units, tried two and did not ever like the results. The direct input in the way to go.

Good Luck,

PT

Very impressive job -- congrats!

re: "...except I don't know how to run power and ground lines from the battery...."

Since you have a '93 (as I do, also), there is a very convenient passageway to draw wires from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment -- it's made for this purpose!

Under the brake's master cylinder, you'll find a flexible, plastic, corrogated (aka ribbed) hose (about 1 inch diameter) with a conical rubber cap. This conduit runs under the vacuum booster (aka, power brake booster) into the passenger compartment near the hood release cable, where it ends with the same conical rubber cap. This was designed to allow a mechanic to install the harness for the cruise control.
To reach the passenger compartment end, you have to remove the knee pad (large size torx, but I forgot what size, exactly), the support bar under the pad, and the felt insulation pad under the instrument panel. Then you'll easily see the end of the conduit.
Run your wires through the caps (punch a hole) so you can reinstall the caps on both ends to ensure that fumes won't leak into the passenger compartment.
I found that, because of the ribbing and the bends in the engine compartment, it's easiest to snake a leader from passenger to engine sides of the firewall, rather than the opposite direction; then draw the wires through attached to the end of the leader.

I don't know which, if any, earlier models have this conduit -- my personal ownership experiences jump from '84 (which most certainly doesn't have this) to my '93's.

IF I understand correctly, you designed one adapter to let any kind of music player (iPOD, MP3 player,...) can be inserted into the car sound system.

Actually, my 245 have a Sony CD. What I want is to get a adapter to insert my MP3 or other outside music into the car sound system.

So, if possiabel, Could you please tell us how to do it step by step?

detailed procedure, parts name, picture,....

Thanks.

Nice!

Please do post a parts list and procedure-- I'd like to adapt it to my '92 945T sound system.

What was your total parts cost?

Cheers!
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Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 945t 210K mi

Thanks for the feedback! I am working on the full writeup, with parts, links to buy them, prices, and my (inaccurate) hand drawn diagram.

The parts should cost about $110 total if you're good enough with soldering to DIY the amp/radio-to-RCA cables. Buying these cables pre-made (it's WORTH it!!) brings the total to about $170.

My cost for the job was MUCH more because I wound up buying unnecessary parts, having to send defective parts in for repair, paying a friend to make the amp/radio cables, and blowing out two iPod Nano's ($70 out-of-warranty exchange) and two stock radios ($35 on eBay?). Luckily, I was working on this job for so long (~1 year) that I spread out the costs.

This wiring harness should work for the Sony CD player simply by leaving out the amp/radio-to-RCA cables. Simply wire the harness between the radio and amp, then connect the power wires as indicated in the MPSS-4 manual. But more realistically, maybe there's an auxiliary input adapter for that headunit. Does it allow CD changer? There's probably a cable to convert the CD changer plug into RCA input. Or does it have aux RCA input? You could get an 1/8"-to-RCA adapter from Radio Shack and play the iPod off its batteries through the headphone jack. Or, use the PIE RCA-POD to hardwire it!

I'll post the instructions soon. I just finished compiling the parts list with links and prices. And the interesting news is, this MAY work with 740, 940, and 850 stock amp/headunits as well!
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- FireFox31