Due to age and wear many defrost wires have gone broken on this original rear window(not a wagon). I plan to install a 240 1988 rear window I got from a scrap yard. The defrost wires test good and I will get the bonus of having a good looking brake light included.

I looked in the archives but could not find a method for installation of a sedan rear window.

Here is a method of what I can remember reading many years ago. I think it applies to wagon but I am not sure about sedan:

1- Ajust the rubber seal around the glass pane(do you suggest use some caulking?)

2- Insert a nylon line in the rubber grove that will fit on the metal edge of the car, both ends coming out at the bottom.

3- With some help insert bottom window/rubber seal groove on the car. Then go inside and pull the nylon lines evenly to slip in the rubber seal on each sides first and finish at the top in the center. (do you suggest caulking there to seal better?)

Does that method look right? I would hate to break the glass by being careless.

Many thanks for your advices/suggestions. I want to keep this car for 10 more years. It is SU carburated which makes it poor performing but little maintenance and problems.

My experience is with cargo and tailgate windows in wagons but I can not see why the procedure would not be the same. This is what I wrote up concerning my "roping in" experience:

Personally I find them easier to install than to remove. The gasket holds the glass and then the gasket forms a rubber seal on each side of the metal lip that protrudes all the way around the opening. Armoral can be helpful in this process when you want to make the rubber slippery to make it easier to remove/install.

Removal:
You need to peel the gasket down on the inside at one of corners. Seems the upper rear corner is the one I use. A couple of putty knives will serve you well. One that has an angle bent into it will come in handy. As you pull the gasket down and expose the metal lip insert a putty knife to keep the gasket from going back into place. Work your way down the length of the top of the window inserting stir sticks, putty knives, or what have you to keep the gasket out of place.

Go back to the original corner and work your way around the corner. Pull the gasket down and push it to the outside of the metal lip. Have your helper support the assembly but do not let them pull it. After the first corner is out go to the other end at the top and do the same thing.

Work your way down at both ends. Once you have the gasket more than half out at the ends you should find it quick and easy to push the rest of both ends out while your helper adds a little leverage by carefully pulling the glass away at the top and then lifting the assembly out of the opening.

Reinstall:
Talk to a good auto glass shop or an automotive paint supply house to get the correct adhesive for a rubber gasket/metal lip setup like the Volvo has. It is available in standard caulking gun tubes.

Purchase a spool of high quality nylon line. The smallest diameter available that is impossible to break by hand is a good standard.

Warm weather is a bonus as it makes the rubber more pliable and easier to slide into place. A bit of Armoral can help lube things a bit in cooler weather.

In the groove that the metal lip fits in you will need at least 2 complete loops of nylon cord. Install the glass in the gasket and then wrap the nylon cord around the perimeter of the gasket. Both ends of the cord should be positioned about at the middle of the bottom of the gasket.

Apply the adhesive to the outside of the metal lip.

Have your helper hold the gasket/glass assembly up to the opening while you work from inside the cargo area.

Make sure both ends of the cord are inside. Position the window, tipping the top back a bit. Get the metal lip started into the groove. Try to get as much of the bottom of the gasket in place over the lip as you can The ends of the cord should be positioned so they come out where the gasket is already in place.

Once you have as much of the bottom of the gasket in place as you can grasp the cord and wrap it around your hand so as to have a good grip on it.

As your helper pushed the window in you need to pull the cord into the cargo area. You will see the cord actually pull the gasket inside the car. Go slow and have the helper apply pressure as needed to help you in your effort.

Continue around the perimeter of the opening. After one complete revolution you will have the gasket in place. The second revolution of cord was to insure that it did not pull out during the install.

Randy

Thank you for posting that very detailed method of installing rear window.

I will get informed about what is a good sealant for that purpose. I will also check at the Volvo dealer. A person there I know for 20 years at the parts department might put me on a good track. He is not with me a parts seller, on the contrary he could send me somewhere else as he often does.

Glad to see you are still active on the Brickboard

Old thread, but in case someone else comes across this in a search:

None of the pop-in windows (rear or side triangles) had any evidence of sealant between the rubber gasket and the metal on my car. I'm working on a '74 164E, but it is very similar to the early 240 and 260. The only evidence of sealant from the factory was between the glass and the rubber gasket. The sealant was on one side of the edge of the glass only (the side facing out). Therefore, it appears to have been applied after the window is in place and installed in the vehicle. Using a caulk gun, insert the nozzle of the sealant tube inside the rubber gasket between the glass and rubber. Apply a small bead as you move the nozzle along the seal. The nozzle itself holds the gasket open as you pull it along. After the sealant dries (it never dries completely; just becomes less tacky), scrape off of the glass whatever oozed out of the gasket with a razor blade.

From the factory, only the bottom and sides of the glass had sealant. The top was clean. I used 3M Auto Body and Glazing Compound 08509. Advance Auto had it in stock for $27 in a standard caulk tube. Interestingly, I seem to have bought the last one, and they don't intend to restock. The Advance Auto website now says it isn't available and cannot be ordered. Amazon says 'unavailable'. 3M website says it is for commercial use only and not for individual sale...

An alternative might be C.R. Laurence CRL7708. It is thinner and designed to 'flow', so it might require a different application procedure.