Looks like I'm going to have to change out a leaking tank on my sisters 240. This will be the first time for me and I'm looking for any advice or words of wisdom. How is the fuel filler neck disconnected? Thinking of getting an aftermarket unit as opposed to a used one.

Use gloves when handling the tank.The undercoating mixed wiith gasoline can be quite messy. B.G.

The fuel fill tube enters the tank with a clamp holding the connection tight, as you might imagine. This clamp has one bolt which the nut is held fast onto the clamp. Very small, very rusty, and just enough metal to do the job. I would of liked to have had a new one on hand. Taking mine off broke the bolt, so soaking in PB Blaster I was able to dislodge the remains. Getting to this clamp requires one arm over the rear axle and the other arm between the axle and tank. A small mirror was helpful. The five large bolts holding the tank is straightforward. Oh by the way, the metal tubing coming out the Bung Nut isn't rusty enough to break when removing the fuel hoses? Enjoy, KP

Changeing out the fuel tank is not too bad once you have done a few but the first one can be a little rough.

Remove the drain screw in the bottom of the tank and drain it.
Remove the access plate in the trunk and undo the wiring to the pump and sender
Remove the lines at the top of the sender
Under the car undo the return line that goes into the sender,14&15mm wrenches
Remove the rubber around the filler neck where it goes through the body
Undo the vacuum line that goes to the filler neck, in the trunk
Shoot the bolts out that hold the tank in and drop it out.

I have always pulled tanks with the filler neck attached. Trying to properly fit that bastard clamp that holds the neck in is nightmare enough with it out on the ground. The one and only one I have done in the car made swear off of ever doing it that way again. When putting the tank back in the car it helps to have someone on the outside of the car to guide the filler neck in and through the body.

Mark

Mark,

I was hoping that it was possible to do it this way. Do you normally replace the clamp with a new one? If so would you know the PN? Any other parts to have on hand besides a bung nut, seal, intank hose and fuel sock? I should be able to remove the return line at the sender, right?

Thanks

The bung nut is most readily removed with a bung nut tool. Improvising can damage the sending unit. When I removed the fuel tank from a 145, I left the filler tube connected until the tank was on the ground. The filler tube can rotate with respect to the tank. The optimum angle to attach it to the new tank will depend on how it passes through the body. Taking note of the position of the old setup may be helpful. Setting the new tank on cardboard or plywood before dragging it under the car will keep it from getting scratched.