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Hello to All,
Any knowledge as to why this should happen on a B20 with about 110,000 miles.
Fatigue or an oil passage problem? At the moment, the engine is out of the car ,the oil pan is off and the distributor gear is very tight and not wanting to come up. In fact , a small piece of the aluminum distributor base is tight to the gear itself, and not wanting to come off. ( I'll cut it out once gear is free of engine) Makes me want to check all my oil passage ways. Best way to proceed?
Thanks
On Hudson
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I think I saw a suitable one for $99 when I went looking for information on the Hot-Spark electronic ignition at their website.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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I'm confused with your statement that a small piece of the aluminum distributor base is tight to the gear itself, and not wanting to come off.
You need to pull the aluminum distributer base out of the block before you remove the gear-drive. Maybe that is what you mean. You cannot remove the gear with the base in place.
It is not unusual for the gear to be stubborn when trying to pull it out.
Be sure you are twisting as you pull, and work it back and forth as mentioned. Don't just try to yank it straight out.
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Tom - '60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '86 745T, '06 Mazda MPV
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I can't say why you had a failure but often the oil receptacle on the side of the distributor is ignored--it keeps the shaft lubed. The gear is often difficult to remove. It builds up deposits of dry dirty oil on the shaft and then can't pass through . I use a solvent like carb cleaner and work the gear up and down--it will rotate as it comes up. Obviously there was a lack of lubrication. You'll need to remove all the related parts to get the whole story. You should remove the oil pump if you haven't already done so. Then you can lubricate the shaft from the bottom. I have 2 boxes of useable distributors and bases. If you're interested you can buy a pair from me for $20 plus postage. Personnally, I'd look to go to an electronic system. I've seen posts refering to various aftermarket systems. I've used the Bosch distributor, coil and control unit from the 1975 240 series (B20F). It's a direct bolt in and the control unit is simple to wire. Be sure to use the (or a) resister.
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This post has been marked as an answer to the original question.
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Thanks for the advice, sure enough ,the carb cleaner did the job as I worked it back and forth, turning "clockwise "also the key to getting the gear and shaft out.
Dismantled oil pump and everything moving freely. Looked again at distributor and saw that when rotating it locks up, grinds,etc. suspect some bushings just gave out. In the past I lubed the distributor shaft through the small portal fairly regularly, maybe just not enough, fatigue and bam?
Why the 240 95'distributor, I don't have fuel injection, what do you do with the extra wiring with the FI distributor ?
How to clean out the brass sleeve that the shaft sits in ....pipe cleaners and more carb cleaner I guess.
Thanks
On Hudson
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Glad to hear the solvent did the trick for you. Concerning the distributor--the B20F motor had the CIS fuel injection, it didn't need the trigger points found in '70-'73 E models. The 1975 240's distributor is electronic--it has a coil winding inside and a reluctor on the shaft, uses a small amplifier with only a few wires to run and an ignition coil to match. It's a very reliable system and gave my 1969 with 10.5:1 CR instant starts on the coldest of mornings. Being the factory setup makes parts easier to obtain. It's the same ignition the early 240's with the B21F motor had.
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Pull your timing gear and the brass plate behind it. This will allow endwise
movement of the camshaft.
If you need another distributor clamp/mount I have a few around.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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But what about the Why?,Why did this happen?, any thoughts as to how often this happens with distributors? Auto zone was offering a rebuilt one for $90 , thought I would go with that as a replacement.
Thanks,
On Hudson
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Did you pull the timing gear and check the plate behind it?
Is your timing gear still integral (as opposed to the fiber part separating
from the hub)? Does the distributor turn freely?
Oil pump turn OK?
If you have the engine apart you can certainly tell more easily than we can
here in the dark!
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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As of today the oil pan is off and I have yet to remove timing gear, sprayed some carb -cleaner around shaft from oil pump to distributor gear.Hoping for an easy extraction. (bits of aluminum shaft have been recovered out of the oil pan)But will follow suit with timing gear as next step. More to follow soon.
The distributor did move freely prior to pulling the engine, now I have it up dangling on a good chain hoist and balanced on a few saw horses, not really an engine stand, so I'm just being cautious about this not all tumblin down
Much thanks for your input.
Thanks again,
On Hudson
71'145, 73'145
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Thanks for the tip on the carb cleaner, lots of gum on the shaft, but it came out slowly ,no problems. On closer examination ,what I thought was the base of the distributor attached to the gear was simply the male part of the gear broken at the end, luckily there was a piece of it intact to pull on. I have a replacement for this part.
On Hudson
71' 145, 73' 145
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