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I did a very stupid thing recently while trying to find out why my 1986 240 DL wagon's battery was constantly going dead on me. I took the connector located in the back of the ignition switch off and opened it up without recording the wire locations. I tried to put it back together and think that I nearly have it right except I still am having wiring problems and would like to remove this as a possible cause. I know from the Volvo green books that the Red-black wire and the Blue-yellow wire both go to terminal 15. But they can't fit on the same terminal in connect or on the switch, and there is a imprint in the housing that shows to open points below it as being part of point 15. So I put the red-black in one and blue-yellow in the other, but what I need to know is whether or not order or precedence matters? Going from left to right with the jack facing toward you should the red-black be first or the blue-yellow?
Second, there appears to be two terminal 30 imprinted into the jack face. Which one do I hook up the 4.0 Red wire to?
If anyone got a photo or knows of one that is posted here please let me know.
I'm going to go out and remove the jack from the back of the switch. Remove the switch from the lock and put it into the jack. The I am going to take off the jack's back and try to get a photo to post here.
IAT.
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I am looking at the Volvo Wiring Diagram book for 240 1987-88. Should be OK for your '86.
Looks like a part of the ignition switch has pin, the meeting part has corresponding holes. I shall attempt to describe what I see on the part with holes.
A circular faced part, with one side flattened. With that flattened side on the left, here's what I have gleaned.
1) At the flat side are two holes. Top one says "P", next one down says "30". There is a red wire in the #30 hole, 4.0 wire from the engine bay junction block.
2) Going anti-clockwise, next is #15. It has a 4.0 blue-yellow wire that goes to the fuse block to power fuses 10, 11 and 12. It looks like there may be two #15 holes. The wire is in the second one.
3) Next to the above hole is another #30. So far I have seen nothing connected there. (I am looking at all the pictorials that have anything to do with the ignition switch.)
4) Next hole is apparently marked "R", again I've seen nothing connected.
5) Next comes a hole marked 50. It has a 1.5 Blue wire which goes to the PNP switch (if an autobox car) and then to the starter solenoid via the gray connector on the firewall.
6) Next hole, still going anti-clockwise, is "X". It has a yellow wire that goes to power fuses #1, #2 and #3.
On the back side of that same connector, at the flat side, two wires go there, one above the other. The upper one is Red-black, hot when #15 is hot. It gets somehow to the ECU, terminal #18.
The other back side wire is red, which may go to the headlight relay. Can't tell for sure.
I hope this is helpful. I don't have either hands-on experience or a photo of what you are looking for.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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...tell us which one you have and I'll point you to the figure/page with the copy from the Volvo diagrams..
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Aside from looking at another switch that has not been screwed with, the only other place that I recall seeing this information is in the fold out in the back of the factory green book. The fold out that shows the entire wire schematic for the car, if you have a green book take a look there.
Mark
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Thanks to all for the replies.
Yes, I have a green book as well as the Chilton, Clymer, Hayes, and Bentley books.
Took the diagram from the green book and realized that it describes the plug from the back so I just followed the order as you described above and with a little playing around to accomodate the differing lengths on each of the leads I was able to get back in in the correct order.
This did nothing for my original problems (non charging alternator, non-working auto od switch dispite relay replacement, or the knock in the engine), but it made me feel better that I had at least returned them to their correct positions.
Now I've got a bigger problem as the left front inner tie rod has let go on me, fortunately only a few blocks from home. I limped home very carefully and now have my 245 up on jack stands and I am trying to locate parts tomorrow to fix it. My family keeps after me everytime the car encounters another problem, but I tell them that without struggle there really isn't any life. Besides a minute of handling of my Volvo is worth an hour in my Buick Regal. Keep Rollin'.
P.S. I think I may have cured my alternator problems by changing the connector on the end of the 4 gauge wire that I rigged between the starter and the alternator when the wire on the factory loom went south about two years ago. The addition of a copper wire end with a 1/4" hole soldered to the wiring and covered at the end with shrink rap did the trick. The new end fits the post perfectly with absolutely no movement as the other one from the aftermarket manufacturer had some squirm and was nickle coated. The voltmeter show the nidle solidly between the two red zones, so I figure that's about 14v which is what were looking for. If however this doesn't work and my battery goes dead again I plan to swap out the voltage regulator. If that doesn't work its either getting an external adjustable voltage regulator or swapping the unit for a GM/Delco 10Si single wire alternator. I've heard good things about the Delco 10Si.
Also I'm adjusting to having only three gears without OD. When I round up some cash I'll get a new solenoid and put it in as I think that's the reason why the fuse is always blowing.
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I am pleased that my description of the switch wires helped. I looked at a lot of pages to find pictures that, collectively, showed every wire connected to it.
When I round up some cash I'll get a new solenoid and put it in as I think that's the reason why the fuse is always blowing.
Fuse always blowing? When? When you push the o/d button?
Can you get under the car, or talk someone (like a muffler shop) into raising the car on their lift? The wire from the o/d relay to the solenoid gets really damaged over time. It is a white wire, now probably a greasy white. It gets its insulation melted off being draped on a hot tranny, and other ways messed up. The solenoid, BTW, is on the left side of the car. Just has that one wire.
If that wire is grounded, that'll blow the fuse. Keep your dimes and nickels safe until you check this out.
Regarding the alternator. Good that you could fix the 4-gauge wire connection. I assume that what went south was the loom that runs under the front of the engine. Seems that after enough years they all go. Plus - the 1986 is in the 1983-87 years that got the crumbling insulation on wires inside looms.
Check the other wires on the alternator. There must be a good solid ground connection, as the alternator is insulated from the block by the rubber mount bushings. It should be a blue (greasy blue) wire from the rear bolt of the alternator mounting bracket to a connection to the frame of the alternator.
There must also be a thin red wire. ALERT: It is in that same loom as the 4-gauge wire. If that wire is either not connected, or grounded before it gets to the alternator, there will be little or no charging. (Watch the behaviour of the "batt" warning light). It runs to the gray connector on the firewall, same route as the black wire from the oil pressure sensor. Both can be fixed by installing new wires (using the same ends) from that connector to the alternator area.
There's bound to be a lower cost repair than replacing the alternator with that GM/Delco unit.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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