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Hello Ladies and Gents of the BB,
Inga my faithful 1986 245DL has developed a squeal in the AC Fan Belt when the compressor kicks on when you first start her up. Does not affect the Power Steering pump but is a very annoying in parking lot or coming out of the drive way. The belt is not worn, only a year old, but it does have more deflection that it should using the thumb test.
I must confess that when it comes to tightening the fan belts on a 240 I have a problem. Just can not get it right and have decided to seek help.
Can never seem to her belts tight enough and have never had this problem on my old American stuff. It is the ajustment bolt maybe, I have tried all sorts of things to adjust the bolt, adjust the part where the bolt screws into. I have paid on two different occasions $10 to get the belts tightened after a water pump and alt replacement and one time to get that stupid AC compressor belt installed (that is just way too tight). Just get tired of trying to get the belts tight and go get pro help.
Now while the highs are only hitting the 70's I can take my time and finally learn what to do.
So what is the sequence for tightening a belt on a 240?
Thanks in Advance for your guidance.
PT
PS: No Flames please, but thanks for offering
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You might have a harmonic balancer separating. I'll bet belt manipulation won't solve the problem.
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Sometimes 240 belts will run at an angle - not perpendicular to the engine axis. If that is the case you'll need to replace one or more mount bushings for a/c pump or power steering or alternator.
It's also possible for the main crank pulley (lowest one on front of engine) to slide forward or rearward, and all belts will then run crooked. That needs a new crank pulley for the fix.
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam to 7' from ground, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's at 44 psi, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns, tach, small clock. Wifemobile '89 245
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Once again, Bruce (aka Lucid) is spot on.
Once I actually SAW the rear adjuster lock on the a/c compressor. There really is one, but danged if I could figure out how to get at it.
Last time on belts on my 1988 244 I went (¼ mile) to ACE and bought a 10mm Flat Ratchet wrench. Quality? Dunno, the main feature was that it was quick to get. It is great for the nuts and bolts on the backside of the p/s pump and likely good for that backside compressor adjuster.
For the long long long adjuster bolts, I use a ¼-inch drive 10mm socket mounted on an electric screwdriver (takes an adapter for ¼-inch square drive to hex shape, ACE again). Another big time saver.
Have you got a new belt for the a/c drive? What with all that work to get at it, do the new one now, save the other for an emergency, it's probably glazed anyway.
I found, on my 1984 244 with the York compressor, that a slack a/c drive belt made squeaking and squealing and shreiking like something awful was going on. Tightened it up, got blessed silence.
Chances are good that your belt, once tightened evenly front and rear, will make the squealing disappear (is the audio equivalent disa-hear?).
Good Luck, Hope you can take full advantage of our gorgeous weather. Got flood light work lights? Evening comes all too soon, and worse next week with standard time.
Bob
:>)
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Oh yeah BC, I got lights, heck during the summer I would wait to after sun down before I got out there and went at it if possible. Going to be in the area of those bolts on Saturday morning. My Autozone $6.50 motormount just failed and yes you get what you pay for. Have OEM ones on order at BAP Geon and will get those tomorrow.
And the wifes throttle body needs to be cleaned so I will do Inga's also. So it will be a uplifting, tighten up. and clean up weekend.
Thanks for the info,
Regards,
PT
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Have OEM ones on order at BAP Geon and will get those tomorrow.
IMO, the acronym "OEM" has become virtually meaningless. It once meant a part from a Manufacturer who supplies the Original Equipment part to Volvo (or did in the past). I don't believe it has much validity anymore. I'd say if your BAP-Geon mounts are in the $15 range, they are aftermarket for sure.
The lowest OE/Blue Box/Dealer prices I've found are at Tasca Volvo.
http://www.tascavolvoparts.com//index.do
Tasca's "internet prices" average about 15% above their cost, with motor mounts being:
274110-6 RUBBER CUSHION KIT $35.5 List — $24.93 Internet Price
I know of no source that sells a mount meeting Volvo's OE quality standards for less.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Well I will have to see what is in the box this afternoon.
So far when they have said OEM there was a Volvo part number or sticker on the Box. Now they are also the ones who sold me that Scamtech flametrap kit that split wide open also. But they did not every call that OEM.
They had three prices on mounts, the $6 one, a over $15 one, and one in the mid $20's. So I may just hand the $15 one back and ask them to order the higher priced unit.
Since the one on the oil filter side is still intact and my new full Syth oil has on about 1K on it, I plan to hold out for the next oil change before upgrading that one.
Thanks for the advice,
PT
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The 240 Compressor, PS PUMP, and Alternator all have a 10mm hex head adjustor bolt.
They also have locking bolts/nuts (13mm hex) that keep the adjustment "locked".
The Compressor has 2 locking bolts. The rear one is hard to see or access. But it can be done with clever contortions and combinations of extensions, wobble sockets, etc. I'd advise removing the AMM and airbox cover, and using 3/8" drive tools for a tad more access to the rear locker, which is directly aft of the front one.
The PS pump also has 2 lockers which can be reached with an open or boxend wrench.
The alternator has 1 lock nut on a "stovebolt" comes thru the rear of the adjuster block that the 10mm adjuster bolt is threaded into and thru. The nut is on the front, partly hidden by the belts, and easy to access with ratchet and socket.
The Alternator pivot bolt at the very bottom may or may not be locked down tight, making adjustment difficult. The bolt head is at the front, and may be either 12mm or 13mm. The nut at the rear is 13mm.
Before reaching down in back with a 13mm wrench, be sure to disconnect the battery negative cable. Once it's safe, hold the nut (by feel) and loosen the bolt head with socket and ratchet.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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