posted by
someone claiming to be 960 Brickster
on
Sat Sep 29 12:17 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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95 960 sedan: There is some general craziness with the posting tonight. Not sure if it's my firewall. Other post would not let me reply.
I have the motor out and am cleaning a considerable amount of gunk out. Only one problem in the removal, the drain hose is attached to the nylon gear cover. Had to leave it in the trunk.
Once I have all the crud out, I will clean and reassemble. However, there is quite a bit of vaseline like clean grease in the assembly. How much, and what sort of grease should be put on, and where? I bought some high end racing bike wax lubricant, but it is too thin. Is white grease appropriate, or is it too thick?
The long nylon feed is is still attached to the mast, but not unattached from the motor end. Is it supposed to be seated in the gears somehow?
Want to do this right.
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posted by
someone claiming to be 960 Brickster
on
Tue Oct 2 01:18 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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The antenna is back in and working, but still noisy, which was a surprise. I took the entire assembly apart, cleaned off all grease and gunk from ann parts, put a small amount of a light bearing grease on it, and some wax oil on the mast line. Reassembled, and still quite noisy. Any ideas?
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posted by
someone claiming to be 960 Brickster
on
Sun Sep 30 07:47 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Guys, the antenna is all apart, and I have a question about reassembly and refeeding the nylon notched line back in. It is not possible to feed in from outside once the unit is reassembled. The covers prevent this. As a result, i have to reassemble with the gear line in the right place. Does the very end physically attach to the housing, or does it stay loose?? If it stays loose, I can just grease it, and coil it back in and reassemble. Any thoughts?
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I'll assume your antenna is the same as on my '93 945. I replaced my antenna mast recently following the instructions in the 700/900 FAQ. I did have to open the motor case to remove the broken end of the old nylon gear. I reassembled the motor cover and reinstalled it in the car. Then I had my wife turn off the radio while I fed the new mast with the nylon gear down into the opening for the mast in the roof of the car. (If you have a sedan, the opening is, of course, in the rear fender.) The motor grabbed the nylon gear and pulled it down. I think I may have had to cycle the radio on/off a couple of times. Anyway it worked just as the FAQs said it would. A very easy replacement.
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Sorry, no words of advice just a question: Did you cure your rough idle problem (232 code) and was the problem the MAF sensor or what?
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posted by
someone claiming to be 960 Brickster
on
Sun Sep 30 06:26 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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No fix to the 232 yet. I think it if the MAF. I know an expert Volvo Technicoian and he swapped his 93 MAF, and that seemed to fix it.
But the 95 960 has a MAF that only works for that year and model, and they are about $500 new/reman, and $200 used. I have already blown $150 on a bad used MAF.
Plus, I sent the original MAF to an electrical engineering company to see if they could do a circuit level repair - the could not fix it. This has been the most expensive and most difficult to diagnose car problem I have ever had.
So no, the 232 remains with every fix, tweak, part, and uttered curse.
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Yes, I've decided to spend some more time on my 232 code; found a small vacuum leak at the down hose connection on the back of the inlet air duct, fixed that and now, I'm getting a 233 code; I've replace the O2 sensors and that was expensive enough. I checked the IAC and MAF sensor and the resistance and voltage checks out OK; I think my problem is either a worn IAC or a intake gasket leak. replacing the IAC is easy but expensive; replacing the gasket will be cheap but a real pain. My next check will be to try some propane or WD-40 around the intake gasket to see if the gasket is leaking. If I find my problem I'll let you know.
'97 960 120k
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posted by
someone claiming to be 960 Brickster
on
Sun Sep 30 06:24 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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No fix to the 232 yet. I think it if the MAF. I know an expert Volvo Technicoian and he swapped his 93 MAF, and that seemed to fix it.
But the 95 960 has a MAF that only works for that year and model, and they are about $500 new/reman, and $200 used. I have already blown $150 on a bad used MAF.
Plus, I sent the original MAF to an electrical engineering company to see if they could do a circuit level repair - the could not fix it. This has been the most expensive and most difficult to diagnose car problem I have ever had.
So no, the 232 remains with every fix, tweak, part, and uttered curse.
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posted by
someone claiming to be 960 Brickster
on
Sun Sep 30 06:23 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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No fix to the 232 yet. I think it if the MAF. I know an expert Volvo Technicoian and he swapped his 93 MAF, and that seemed to fix it.
But the 95 960 has a MAF that only works for that year and model, and they are about $500 new/reman, and $200 used. I have already blown $150 on a bad used MAF.
Plus, I sent the original MAF to an electrical engineering company to see if they could do a circuit level repair - the could not fix it. This has been the most expensive and most difficult to diagnose car problem I have ever had.
So no, the 232 remains with every fix, tweak, part, and uttered curse.
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posted by
someone claiming to be 960 Brickster
on
Sun Sep 30 06:23 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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No fix to the 232 yet. I think it if the MAF. I know an expert Volvo Technicoian and he swapped his 93 MAF, and that seemed to fix it.
But the 95 960 has a MAF that only works for that year and model, and they are about $500 new/reman, and $200 used. I have already blown $150 on a bad used MAF.
Plus, I sent the original MAF to an electrical engineering company to see if they could do a circuit level repair - the could not fix it. This has been the most expensive and most difficult to diagnose car problem I have ever had.
So no, the 232 remains with every fix, tweak, part, and uttered curse.
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