No light out trouble light showing on dash either, all other taillights working except brakelights and 3rd brklt. Fuse is good. All I can figure prob to be is the switch at the pedal... What do you think? all opinions gladly accepted.. TIA Tom 27940aholic Also I listed a 91 245 w/145k for sale a month and a half ago with no takers, will now take $1800 for it if interested...

Yikes.
This thread has been diluted and dispersed by discussions of a car's condition and other purchases under consideration. BTW, P1800's = rust. If you're ready for acid dip baths etc. etc, jump right in. See the 1800 tab on this page.

As for your non-working brake lights:

I hope you can use a voltmeter or a multitester.
Or at a minumum, use a test light.

Hot voltage for brake lights is always on - at least on my '89 245. Does not depend on ignition key position. Check the fuse and fuse holder tabs for corrosion - I see you checked that the fuse is not burned out but they often get corroded.

Brake switch is on brake pedal lever, up a bit from the pedal itself. One side of switch is always hot, other side hot only when you step on brake. Mine is right side = always hot 12V into switch. Left side = voltage out to brake system.

True that you can get to the brake switch via the instrument cluster opening. However if you're willing, you can push the seat back and crawl in from below, head first. BTDT. Use a flashlight.

From switch it goes to the bulb failure sensor (BFS). From there it splits out to the brake lights. If all brake lights are not working the bulb failure sensor could be at fault. Or could possibly be a failure in brake switch or in the wiring up to the BFS.

Three wires leave the BFS to power the three brake lights. Since all are not working I would not suspect anything beyond the BFS. However, just to eliminate what's easy to check, I'd assume you've already checked the bulbs.

BFS is located under dash, left side, tucked under the bottom front face of dash. Red-orange can about 2" diam and 2" long. Has quite a few connector pins so not easy to disconnect.

If you're very patient you can inspect the wiring at rear of car and decode which color wires are the brakes. Then you can find the matching wires at the BFS and do some testing there.

Good luck!


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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam to 7" from ground, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns, tach, small clock. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock.

Thaks all for the feedback, again it is much appreciated.... Here's another good one, My local paper is listing someone selling a 68 1800es with twin SU's, ad says it looks and runs well, asking $3800.00. If only I had the cash, was trying to get a 66 1800 in my area last year but the guy never contacted me back, needed much work but was quite solid yet. Ended up buying my 85 ZX, now my 15th ZX ranging from 79 to 89..... Tom 27940aholic and Z nut...

If all the brakelights went out together my money is on the bulb out sensor relay. That big red round device above the knee bolster on the driver's side. It is more common than you might expect.

They are way too expensive new but there are tons of them in the recycle yards (and in my parts inventory). The clue is all the lights going at once (as would be expected with the switch as well, but they are fairly bullet proof).

They can be opened and with a strong light and magnifying glass you can probably see the solder joint that is at fault. Simply resolder it or replace it.

I bet you a cold Guinness it is the bulb out sensor.

Randy

I've got 1 or 2 of those sensors in my parts bin, is it the same p/n for 2,7& 940's? I'll try that first for them, I thought it odd that the bulb out light did not come on when the pedal is applied, that would make sense.. Tom27940aholic

The bulb out sensor is designed to illuminate when an imbalance is detected in the circuit, so I am not so sure that all the brake lights being out would be detected as an imbalance.

Let is know what you find out.

Randy

Check for voltage at the brake light circuit board if it's not there check the switch. Dan

Hi Tom:

I was just looking at the 200 board and say your name. We exchanged info a few years back and I bought a apir of 240 lights from you. My wife and I met you at an empty abandoned shopping center on Rt.9 near Fishkill.

I believe you worked for IBM there. Ironically, my daughter just left the Micro Electronics operation about 4 months ago after 6 years there.

Hope all is well with you. I have (2) '91 245's How good is the one you have for sale?

As for your brake light situation, I'd bet good money that it is the brake pedal micro switch. I had to replace one on an '89 about 7 years ago and did not know the brake lights were out until someone told me.

Best regards,

Al B.

Hey Al, yes I recall that, They finally built a Home Depot in that old mall. Actually the 91 245 is in quite nice condition, I got it from the 2nd owner in Jersey a couple months ago, he had it about 7 or 8 years, kept it maintained well. It's that nice silver/blue color with dark blue vinyl inside. I put tires on it all around, got the o/d working, changed the solenoid and afterward realized the relay was at fault. Put a new left rear doorhanlde on it, did a couple other things also, Car is well worth the $1800 price.. Tom 27940aholic

Tom:

Thanks for the reply. I would appreciate if you would call me at my cell # left on your Voice mail to discuss.

Regards,

Allan

Hope the brake pedal micro switch change out works for you!

Swapped out the bulb out sensor with a couple spares I have, no good, suggested they take it to a local shop and have the switch changed. Don't feel like dealing with it myself......... Thanks all Tom 27940aholic

Wow, I am surprised. I do, however, owe you a cold Guinness.

Randy

Hi TW. I'm going to assume you've checked fuses. Have you pulled the plugs off the back of the tail lights and checked for power? Most likely suspect is the brake light switch, which is very difficult to reach. Way up high on the pedal mount assembly. No easy way to get to it, but you can get to the wiring more easily from the dash by removing the cluster. You might check for power there first before tearing up your hands removing the switch itself.

DS

My money is on the brake pedal switch.

I've had to replace mine 2x in 17 years. The second time I took out the drivers seat and laid down on my back. Much easier! It really doesn't take too long to remove the seat and also allows you the opportunity to "pick up" some small change, french fries and do a really good job vacuuming!
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If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 249K looking forward to 300K badge (or sticker??). >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}

Know what you mean by that drawing blood thing, yeah i've had 240 seats out a number of times swapping foam and covers, actually the brakelight fault is with and 89 240 I sold a couple years ago when I picked up a 93 944 w/105k for my wife. The 240 is still within 3 blocks of my house so if the owners have a prob they call me occasionally. Also checked on another of my customer/friends cars which I sold him a few years ago, repeat customer, he's got a 90 740 wagon, also within 3 blocks from my house. I't's kind of neat to see all those Volvo's still going around the neighborhood knowing I supplied 'em. Tom 27940aholic I drive a 91 745ti just turned 265k yesterday, droved it 8 hrs round trip to Cape Cod last weekend. I've still got one of those old bumper stickers in my tailgate window that says it all, "I Love My Volvo", also loving my 85 300ZX 2seater w/112k....