Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

INDEX FOR 1/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 11/2008 120-130 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Steering really hard on a 122s 120-130

Hi to all you Volvo drivers,

Recently, my steering box seals were replaced and new bearings installed.
The worm gear is apparently slightly worn because as the steering wheel is turned to it's extremes, there is play on the wheel regardless of the setting on the adjustment screw.
I have not enquired about new worm gears etc, but i can imagine that it would be pretty expensive especially bringing it to SA.

Nevertheless, the box was installed and new tie rod ends and tie rods installed but the steering wheel seems very hard regardless of the setting of the adjustment screw on the box.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Steering really hard on a 122s 120-130

    If you've tried to adjust the play out of the extremes of you're steering box you're well on the way to destroying it irreparably. The box can only be adjusted on the high spot in the centre of the worm. It is supposed to be done by using a spring balance, but in practice can be done with the wheels off the ground, providing the ball joints are in good condition.

    You won't feel the adjustment on the steering wheel, the leverage is far too great, do it bu holding the steering shaft. You should just be able to feel the drag of the high spot, any tighter than that and the life expectancy of the steering box is litteraly in the hundreds of miles!








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Steering really hard on a 122s 120-130

    there's a bit of play when you reach the ends of the steering box on either ends left or right, totally normal.

    has the steering just started to get harder? what width tires do you have, anything new you've done to besides tie rods?








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Steering really hard on a 122s 120-130

      Hi there,

      Glad to know that the play is normal.
      I have 195/65 R15's and the only thing done was the seals and bearings in the box.

      Thanks








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Steering really hard on a 122s 120-130

    Hello,

    The play you refer to at the extremes of the steering is normal in all worm and gear steering boxes.

    The steering box adjustment is done when the wheels are straight.

    If the steering is still tight check the tire pressures and if okay suspect a ball joint(s).
    --
    Eric
    Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
    Torrance, CA 90501








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Steering really hard on a 122s 120-130

    Hello blueb20:

    I am not sure if I understand what you are saying. Are there two issues here? One being the behavior at the extreme ends of the steering rack movement, and the other a stiffness to the steering? Is there any sound associated with this issue?

    I can tell you from recent unpleasant experience that lower ball joints will stiffen up the steering just before they are ready to let go, dropping your precious beast onto the pavement. Check those real quick and no long trips until you do.

    Cheers,

    Jeff Pucillo








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Steering really hard on a 122s 120-130

      Hi Jeff,

      Yes sir, 2 issues - one the play on extreme ends of the steering wheel and hard steering.

      How does one go about checking lower and upper ball joints?

      Thanks








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Steering really hard on a 122s 120-130

        Hello blueb20:

        Oops, forgot to check back to see how you are doing. Sorry about that.

        I am actually not quite sure how to check ball joints thoroughly. On a reasonably long road trip about a month ago I tried to do exactly that and failed to detect a problem. It made itself known rather dramatically about 30 miles from home.

        One thing you certainly can do is to check the rubber boot between where the ball joint meets the wheel upright. If there is significant cracking then water and dirt might be able to get in. The joint will start to dry out and that is when you start to get bad behavior.

        Bad behavior is stiffness in the steering, an audible "chung" from the suspension on acceleration from a stop (this is the ball part of the joint knocking up against the top of the retaining cup) and eventually squeaking sounds when you steer.

        I have heard that you can check ball joints by compressing or extending the suspension but I am not sure how that works. Anyone?

        Cheers,

        Jeff Pucillo








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Checking Ball joints 120-130

          Jeff;

          The upper bjs are not loaded nearly as heavilly as the lowers...they just basically locate the upper end of steering knuckle...that's why they're smaller and rarely go bad...the lower bj can be checked by using your Tommy bar (or another possibly larger, longer lever) to check for slop by levering against the two parts...it's not an exact science because the whole assembly is under serious tension from the spring...and you also wouldn't want to damage the boot in the process...and you'd only see the slop once it was a lot and the bj certainly would need to be changed then...a small amount just might not be easilly detected...

          ...(lets see if I get this right) on the top of the spring rests the corner weight, the bottom of spring is connected to the lower A-arm, but the spring is compressed between the two A-arms, so the net effect is that the lower ball joint is constantly under tension (this is also why the lower A-arm falls to the ground semi-harmlessly with a lower bj seperation).

          The best and most accurate way to check the lower bj is to release the spring tension from the assembly and bj, then check it...remove wheel, jack up corner supporting lower A-arm...support vehicle at frame (crossmember)...loosen (old) castellated nut or (new) nylock, when fully loose, gently lower the lower A-arm a bit, allowing knukle to seperate from bj...if it doesn't immediately on its own, help it with some taps...once seperated, lower the lower A-arm with jack...bj is now free and able to be checked. Assembly is as they say, the reverse of disassembly.

          If it was me, I'd drill and thread in a zerk fitting (from below) which would allow greasing. Maintenance-free is just another name for unmaintainable!

          Good Luck







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.