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Dear Chuck,
Good p.m. and may this find you well. Because wheel studs are a safety-critical item, I'd get replacement studs from a Volvo dealer. The MSRP is about $11/stud. Borton Volvo may discount.
If your car has ABS brakes, the "toothed wheel" on the hub (rotation of which wheel feeds the ABS sensor) can be removed, to ease stud removal/installation.
DEATH DANGER WARNING: THIS IS NOT A ROAD-TESTED OR A VOLVO-APPROVED PROCEDURE - DO THIS ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK. While I have removed and re-installed the toothed wheel in the way set forth below, I have not - repeat NOT - road-tested the re-installed hub unit. Thus, I do not know if toothed-wheel removal and re-installation cause the ABS sensor to malfunction or the ABS system to stop working entirely. PROCEED ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
To remove the toothed wheel, you'll need a workbench vise with 6"-wide jaws (or wider), a wide-blade (minimum 1.5") pry bar (e.g., a Stanley Wonder-Bar), a block of wood (0.75" (20mm) thick; 1.5" wide, and 8" long), and a hammer.
NOTE. DO NOT EVER hit the toothed wheel with the hammer!!! While the toothed wheel is wide, it is hollow underneath. If hit directly with a hammer, it will dent readily and so become useless. You will then need to replace the entire hub, as the toothed wheel is not available separately, as a replacement part.
Clamp the hub in vise, with the toothed wheel upwards. Position the hub, such that the top edge of the hub's flange is level with the top of the vise jaw. Tighten the vise as much as you can.
Use a length of thin wire, to hold in place the bearing retainers, which are inside the hub opening. Run the wire through the hub opening for the stub axle, and twist the wire a few times, until it snug. You'll need to loosen it, in steps, as the toothed wheel comes off. Using a magic marker or white-out, make a mark on the toothed wheel and on the hub body, so you can re-install the toothed wheel, exactly where it was.
Position the block of wood, so that it within 1/8" (3 mm) of the edge of the toothed wheel. Set the block, so most of it is on top of the vise jaw, and thus over the edge of the hub flange. So positioned, the wood block will help to hold down the hub.
Rest the flat side of the pry bar on the block of wood. Slide the edge of the pry bar under the toothed wheel, until the end of the pry bar is against the hub body.
Hold the pry bar with one hand. Using the other hand, take the hammer and strike flat of the prybar, about four inches from the end closest to the hub. Remove the hub and turn it 45 degrees. Re-set it in the vise, and repeat the procedure.
Depending on the extent to which the toothed wheel is corroded (my test hub was pretty corroded), it may take several cycles to loosen the toothed wheel. As the toothed wheel rises along the hub core, loosen the wire holding in place the bearing races, and re-snug the wire.
The process requires moving in one direction around the edge of the toothed wheel, lifting it a fraction of an inch with each cycle. Do not shift to a point opposite your starting point, as if you were tightening wheel lugs.
Once you have removed the toothed wheel, you can replace damaged wheel lugs. Once you have done that, you can replace the toothed wheel on the hub. Before you do that, use a brass wire brush, to remove rust/dirt from the area of the hub, onto which you will re-seat the toothed wheel. Do not remove your placement mark.
To re-seat the toothed wheel, set it atop the hub core, and align your placement marks.
Lay the block of wood across the center of the toothed wheel. With the hammer, strike the block of wood gently, in the center of the block. The toothed wheel should start to slide down the hub core, to its original place on the hub.
After each blow, check to see that the toothed wheel is not skewed, i.e., that its top edge is the same distance from the hub base, at all points on its circumference. If one edge is higher, move the block of wood, so it is atop the "high point", and tap the block of wood, until the top edge of the toothed wheel is level. Move the block of wood back to the center and continue tapping, until the toothed wheel's top edge is even with the top edge of the hub opening.
Re-install the hub, and all other removed parts. If, in a road test, the ABS light does not come on, you should not have any problems. To test the ABS system, go into a completely empty parking lot - or find a road on which there's no traffic (e.g., very early in the morning). Attempt an emergency stop. If you hear the "growl" of the ABS system, then all's well. If the ABS System does not work, consult a Volvo Master Tech.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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