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Did they make the 1985 240DL Auto trans for one year only??? We have a standard RWD sedan, nothing special. The mechanic tells us that they only made the trans for one year. Seems strange to me. We need to rebuild or replace it. Anyone know a reliable source for a replacement trans in Ft. Lauderdale,/Miami Florida area. Money IS an object.
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While the AW series (as others have already stated, a very durable, reliable unit) was used from 83-93, without major changes, an 85 car MUST have one from an 83, 84 or 85, if you want to have a speedometer. From the 86 model up, 240s have an electronic speedometer, driven by a sensor on the rear axle. The transmission from 86 and up cars will bolt right in to an 85, and work correctly, but there is nowhere to connect the speedometer cable, so it turns out the guy at the transmission shop wasn't really too far off base.
If looking for a used transmission, the only weak point to watch out for is that the tailshaft housing is prone to wear, resulting in fluid leakage around the output shaft. This is repairable, but would add to the cost of the job. The overdrive solenoid can also fail, and new ones are quite expensive, so be sure to save the one from your old transmission.
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re: "...The mechanic tells us that they only made the trans for one year...."
That's crap! The transmission in your '85 non-turbo is an AW70 (if it's a turbo engine, then it's an AW71, a slightly beefed up version of the 70) -- it's the same through 1993 for all 240s from about ~'82-on.
Anyone who knows anything about Volvos would know that, so there are only two reasons why he would tell you that:
1) He doesn't know how to work on or replace your transmission, or
2) He wants to compel you to agree to let him rebuild it (at a higher price) than swap it.
Either way, you ought to look elsewhere for your repair.
There have been other transmissions: prior to '82 (or '83), there was the 3-speed (non-overdrive) BW55, for example, but that's the only exception for 240s.
Also, certain other cars (700/900 for example) had a BW70/71 (it was also an overdrive transmission similar to yours, but it had no button on the side of the shift -- instead it had a quadrant, PRND321, instead of PRND21 like yours), but stay away from it (it self-destructs too easily if you rev it in neutral, as in an idle emissions test).
Also, some later 700/900 cars had a AW70/71-L, the -L designating a lockup torque converter, a good choice for your swap, as it will give you better fuel economy!
But these variants were never in any 240.
Good luck.
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You are correct about the AW series transmissions, but the troublesome one in the early 740s (which, as you described, has PRND321 on the quadrant and no button on the knob) was made by ZF of Germany, and was designated 4HP22. (The BW designation was used for 3 speed automatics in pre 83 cars. These transmissions, while up to the job, were pretty miserable to drive.) The same unit was installed in BMWs and Peugeots. Oddly, they seemed to fail more often in the French cars than the German or Swedish, from exactly the cause you describe---revving the engine in neutral.
I had one of these cars, (86 744) which I parted out, but not before driving it a few hundred miles. The transmission worked flawlessly, and was much nicer than the AW series. The shifts were smoother, and the shift points were much more intelligently chosen. However, due to it's reputation, I didn't bother to save this transmission.
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Read the facts in the answers you already have, and go find a new mechanic.
That tranny was used many many years, in the 240s, 700s and 940s. Chances are you can get one that has the lock-up torque convertor. Look in later modela 240, and 740/940 models.
The AW-70 you have is tough, but the mixing with engine coolant is a killer. I think the later AW-71 and AW-71/L will work.
Good Luck,
Bob
;>)
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That tranny was used in many years. They are also bullet proof and rarely fail. So reliable that they are cheap and plentifull from the wreckers. A mechanic that says it was only used for a year may also be dignosing wrong. They just love to replace transmissions.
What are the symptoms?
--
David Hunter
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First, after the trans started failing (the engine would rev up and car would not continue any further). Would happen after driving a short distance, like a mile or two. Checked cooling system. He replaced the radiator, which caused the problem since the exchanger tubing was rotted and fluids mixed through engine and tranny. Then he flushed the entire tranny and engine cooling system several times and the tranny still started failing after it would get well warmed up. We were able to drive it carefully five miles back to the mechanics shop without failure. He took out the "Body" and checked that, which was fine. He says that if that was OK, then the trans is shot.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Peter
on
Sun Jul 15 07:18 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Transmissions operate on oil pressure (lots of it). As heat increases, oil gets thinner and pressure drops. It probably has a bad pump or leaking internal seals. A transmission shop can put gauges on it and test the pressure.
But, I would go with a used one. If you are near a "Pick & Pull" wrecking yard and have the skills to pull it out yourself, get one with a guarantee. Otherwise you will have to pay a bit more to a yard that will pull it for you. But, if you get a guarantee that lasts long enough to get it installed and checked out, you should be in good shape.
A 1985 car is probably not worth the price of a full rebuild.
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Thank you all for your responses. Your right about the rebuild being to expensive. Will continue to look around my area for a used one. This forum is great.
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Blue Horse is correct on the tranny only being available for a few years. However, it is possible to swap tailshaft housings so finding a transmission with no speedometer drive isn't a huge issue because you've got the parts you need on the old transmission. There are a couple of internal parts to swap as well to make the newer-style transmission drive a speedometer gear but I did it in my garage in about 20 minutes and that included removing and replacing the tailshaft bushing.
--
Dale
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