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Have had a no-start on my 1993 245 since an attempted tune-up last week. Here's what I've done and discovered:
1) codes in both #2 socket and #6 socket show 1-1-1.
2) New timing belt,distributor,cam and crank aligned correctly.
3) New crank position sensor
Tests:
1) swapped ICU with one from 1992
2) swapped Radio Suppresent Relay with another (maybe not good also?)
3) Spark (yellow) at both spark plug and coil wire
4) Noid light shows intermittent current at injectors
I will try to swap out ECU later today after work and see what happens.
Anybody have any other suggestions?
Gracias,
el Raidman
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If it ran fine before the 'tune-up', then it might be another example of the lastest addition to Murphy's Law.
"When ever anything really strange, odd, or unusual happens, suspect the last installed new parts"
If you try hanging more 'new' or different parts on it, and do not know the cause of the no start, then you can end up with more problems.
Try re-installing the old parts and see if it starts. If it does, then add/swap in the new ones one at a time to find the culprit.
Could be a bad (new!) dist cap, wire set, plugs etc. Or the old dist rotor.
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I have been suspicious about the timing since your earlier post, where you found the rotor 180° off and pointing at #4 plug wire... Then you "corrected" it by remounting the distributor. If it ran before you started this operation, then the distributor correction must have been a mistake.
Given that this was your first Timing belt job, that first sentence above describes just what you would see if, by mistake, the #1 piston was at the top of its EXHAUST stroke (rather than COMPRESSION). Because that would mean that #4 was at TDCompression, AND the rotor was pointing correctly at the #4 plug wire, like it should.
Those Crank pulley marks line up to the 0°reference for both #1 and #4 TDC—it's the cam position that makes the difference. When #1 is on compression, #4 is on exhaust and vice versa,
Make an old man happy and verify the following:
1) Crank on 0° TDC for #1 piston (feel piston top thru plug hole)
2) Cam has the first two lobes pointed upward and outward (sort of like a shallow "Vee")
3) Rotor points at #1 plug wire
My guess is that either 2) or 3) is not as it should be. Assuming #1 piston is really at TDC, and the Pulley markings haven't shifted due to a failing rubber bond between the inner and outer sections.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Thanks for the help,Bruce. Let me try to communicate what I've done.
1) removed spark plug #1 and felt (hopefully correctly) the piston at TDC.
2) removed valve cover and verified both #1 lobes pointing up.
3) removed and reinstalled distributor to have rotor point at notch in distributor body.
4) installed new timing belt and made sure all gears were lined up with marks as per Bentley book.
Anything I missed??
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1) removed spark plug #1 and felt (hopefully correctly) the piston at TDC.
2) removed valve cover and verified both #1 lobes pointing up.
3) removed and reinstalled distributor to have rotor point at notch in distributor body.
A - Steps 1 and 2 sound right. But as I said, if it WAS running before this activity, then the Crank, Cam, and Distributor must have been in sync before you started on the belt job.
B - If A is true, then you would not have had to perform Step 3, which would introduce an out-of-sync condition on an engine that was running before.
My post above was based on the only thing I know of that might (accidentally) cause the distributor to "appear" to be 180° out of time — #1 on tdc exhaust equals #4 on TDC compression equals spark to #4, as you first found it.
Bottom line is that something "significant" took place during this job, and that 180° distributor adjustment sounds like it to me. Something was not (or is not) as it appears to be.
• Could you have been counting the cam lobes wrong? The "first" two are at the front, and viewable thru the oil fill hole. You said you pulled the valve cover to see the lobes, maybe the rear two for cylinder #4?
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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OK, tomorrow I will REALLY make sure that the compression stroke is up by removing the #1 spark plug,turning the engine over by hand and feeling with a wire when the piston comes up and looking in the oil filler cap for the "V" of the cam lobes. I can check that the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is pointing to #0 in the lower cover and that the rotor is pointing to the score mark on the body of the distributor.
Whew!
I'll post a new entry as this one will get buried tonight.
gracias.
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Are you sure you aligned the cam and crank correctly? I mean, those aren't things that just wildly misalign themselves. Perhaps someone tried jamming the distributor cap on backwards?
Maybe the wires were mixed up and the firing order is wrong?
What exactly did your "tune-up" consist of and what do you mean by "no-start"? Does it crank? Does it turn over and try to get going? Is there fuel coming out and spark igniting it at the right time?
To me, a tune-up means new dist. cap and rotor, plugs and wires. The only way to go from running fine to no-start is to screw up the firing order or forget to put something back.
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OOOPS...sorry. Yes, cranks but no start.
Yes, I made sure the crank,cam and dist.drive gears were correctly aligned.
wires to plugs are in the correct 1,3,4,2 order.
New plugs (.30 gap),new cap but used rotor.
checked fuel supply by removing fuel line at fuel rail before injectors and got a big shot of petrol with small crank time.
Maybe it is the power stage? Or the ECU?
I'll try these later after work.
thanks for your suggestions.
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usually if you are sparking your power stage is ok
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