Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 9/2010 120-130 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Dual-Circuit Power Booster Brake Success! Last Question. 120-130

posted by  RepairmanJackal on  Thu May 17 17:04 CST 2007
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014
[RELATED]

Okay... not entirely there yet. I need to finish the plumbing and the vacuum hose to the booster. But check this out




Pricetag for this lovely thing? $90.00 for just the welding...

$40.00 - firewall mount fabrication and welding.
$50.00 - booster mount fabrication and welding.

To be fair, they had to rush the booster flange for me so I think it was a bit more. Plus they used proper 1/4" steel there... The overall booster stand is much shorter now too. And a good thing too if you see how little space I have in front of it.

So. Now the tricky part. How to get my 122 brake pedal to actuate this thing. The booster has a really big (5/16, 1/2) fine thread bolt that I need to secure to to my pedal... I recall having a hard time finding a long grade 8 fine thread when I was using an external booster and just the 1800 MC. Not sure how I'm going to get it all together without another trip to the welder and at least $15.00.

I saved the pedal box from the 1800E, but there's no way I can use those parts to join the booster up to my 122 pedal...

Any ideas??







  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Dual-Circuit Power Booster Brake Success! Last Question. 120-130

    posted by  chasmataz on  Fri May 18 18:59 CST 2007
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Sat Jul 6 15:11 CST 2013
    [RELATED]

    what if you bought a piece of steel rod and got the die set out and cut your own threads for the booster, and on the other end for you cleavis.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Guess I'd need a die kit.. 120-130

      posted by  RepairmanJackal on  Sat May 19 06:32 CST 2007
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014
      [RELATED]

      Well, I have a couple taps, but no die set. I seem to recall that 20 pitch (fine thread) taps and dies are uncommon. I guess I'd need to find some suitable grade 8 rod stock.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Dual-Circuit Power Booster Brake Success! Last Question. 120-130

    posted by  planetman on  Fri May 18 14:04 CST 2007
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:29 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    Hello,

    Do you still have the pushrod and pedal clevis from the 1800 you parted out.
    --
    Eric
    Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
    Torrance, CA 90501








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Dual-Circuit Power Booster Brake Success! Last Question. 120-130

      posted by  RepairmanJackal on  Fri May 18 18:26 CST 2007
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014
      [RELATED]

      As I noted previously, I have the entire 1971 1800E pedal box cut-free and saved, but not disassembled.

      I don't see how I could use any of it to meet my need for an extra-long pushrod aside from another trip to the welder... with the clevis pin and threaded bit.

      Does a 140 use the a similar clevis pin and the same size/diameter pushrod?







      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Dual-Circuit Power Booster Brake Success! Last Question. 120-130

        posted by  planetman on  Sat May 19 08:22 CST 2007
        Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
        last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:29 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        Hello,

        Brainfade, I forgot that on the 1800e/es, there is no shaft.

        The pedal clevis with male threads with a jam nut accepts the long tube nut on the booster and the tube nut can be turned so that you can screw the tube nut onto the male threads of the pedal clevis.

        Since you are using mixed parts, I can not tell you what length of tube you will need. But you should get some steel tubing of appropriate diameter and length and then tap one end to fit the pedal clevis threads and weld in a piece of threaded rod in the other end.

        I believe the thread is USS 3/8" x 24 fine thread.

        As I say to all my do it yourself customers, on pre-1974 Volvos, ALMOST all of the bolts are the US standard threads, again ALMOST all, there are a few metric threads so you need to be careful.
        --
        Eric
        Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
        Torrance, CA 90501








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Sounds workable. 120-130

          posted by  RepairmanJackal on  Sat May 19 15:35 CST 2007
          Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
          last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014
          [RELATED]

          That sounds workable. I'll have to investigate the threads more carefully as the old clevis has a female captive nut and used 5/16 20-thread rod.

          My 120/1800 conversion ring required me to get an extra long actuator rod with the same pitch, and luckily, the longest 20-pitch grade-8 bolt available (4 1/2") did the trick.

          The 1800E clevis is a male connector of unknown size ( have not checked it yet). The tube nut on the booster is around 3/8 with a 20+ fine thread pitch.

          Hopefully the two ends are at least the same size bolt and I can figure it out from there with some steel tube.

          Thanks!








          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

            Sounds workable. 120-130

            posted by  planetman on  Sun May 20 06:26 CST 2007
            Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
            last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:29 CST 2014
            [RELATED]

            Hello,

            The clevis with a stud attached, screws into the tube nut on the back of the booster, so they both use the same thread size and pitch.

            The only question is, will that clevis easily mount on your stock brake pedal?
            --
            Eric
            Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
            Torrance, CA 90501








            •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

              Done 120-130

              posted by  RepairmanJackal on  Sun May 20 12:36 CST 2007
              Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
              last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014
              [RELATED]

              3/8" 24 pitch. Almost the largest sized fine thread bolt you can find at "home de-pot (which I dislike but is the only hardware store open on Sunday around here).

              So, I picked up a length of 3/8" ID steel tube, a couple 3/8-24 bolts (and nuts) and a couple small cotter pins.

              I took one of the bolts and sawed the head off. I then inserted it backwards into a 5" length of pipe, (threads-out) and used my drill press to put two 1/16" holes through the pipe and bolt. I secured them with the cotter pins and then screwed the clevis into the other end of the pipe. The fit is tight enough to hold the clevis.

              Lucky-for-me-and-everyone-else is that the clevis fits perfectly through the brake pedal.

              This is great for the moment, but when I have a chance, I'll have a fine thread 3/8" nut welded to the open end of the pipe.

              So, the system is back together, but I found a couple fluid leaks when I tried to bleed the system. So, once that's done, I'm ready to go.

              I can snap a pic of the pin setup if anyone is interested.








          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

            Sounds workable. 120-130

            posted by  Redwood Chair on  Sat May 19 20:07 CST 2007
            Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
            last visit: Tue Feb 25 21:29 CST 2014
            [RELATED]

            Grade 8 is really tough stuff,might not thread well.
            Grade 5 is strong but not brittle.
            Allthread comes to mind,
            also having a stirrup welded on to
            allow the clevis pin set up.
            Some thoughts...
            --
            69-145-S ; 71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES ; 87-245-DL








            •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

              Parts 120-130

              posted by  RepairmanJackal on  Sun May 20 12:44 CST 2007
              Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
              last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014
              [RELATED]

              Well I went with grade 5 because that's what they had in 24 pitch, and because I would have to drill a couple holes through it to secure it to the steel tube.

              I could not find any 24-pitch all thread in any size above #10 and then only if I wanted brass.

              Fortunately I was able to find a nice workable solution to the entire assembly and my system now works - except for hydraulic leaks at the rear calipers...

              Always something else to do...

              Despite the leaks, I did get some brake function and was able to move the car under its own power for the first time in months.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.