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Braking shudder. 200

posted by  pearl on  Mon May 14 00:02 CST 2007
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last visit: Sun Jun 7 09:41 CST 2009
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When braking at highway speeds the steering wheel shudders as if I'm all of a sudden driving a car whose front end is much out of alignment. If I brake either real soft or hard it does not happen, but with any braking in the mid range then it does.
I haven't taken the wheels apart yet, but my first guess as to the origin of this problem is the brake discs needing turning or replacment.
What else might it be? The brake peddle is stiff and steady, but could the system need bleeding?








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    Braking shudder. 200

    posted by  Strong-Pimp-Hand on  Mon May 14 03:48 CST 2007
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    last visit: Sun Mar 8 12:15 CST 2009
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    check these things:

    run out of old rotors? if no dial indicator or if age of components is questionable, replace them. rotors are cheap for 240s.

    rims on hub right? torqued properly? always torque those rims!

    ever check or pack those wheel bearings?

    could need a steering u-joint inspection (pretty remote).

    sticky brake pad pins? rusty brake pad pins? bent brake pad pins?

    pads worn evenly? calipers not binding?

    age of brake fluid? this is not a factor, but a good indication of system neglect. old brake fluid does make calipers sticky though.




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      Braking shudder. 200

      posted by  larseko on  Mon May 14 06:29 CST 2007
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      last visit: Sat Aug 1 23:51 CST 2009
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      I see that sticky/rusty pads/pins aren't on the top of the list here, and some rule them out completely, but I did have the same problem as thread starter here, and it appeared that I had very rusty pins. After I replaced the pads (and pins/mounting hardware) the problem hasn't showed up again. If the pad is wedged somewhat, I could see the possibility of a rattle when braking gently in high speed, and when you put the pedal to the floor, it might force the pad past the rust buildup, making for even braking.

      I'm a hopeless beginner myself, but at least this is easy to rule out. Turn the wheels over and check the pins in the caliper for rust, and see if the pads can move freely along the pins. If not, replace (pins and pads if worn, you can buy new pins/mounting hardware separately from fcpgroton.com etc.). If they are moving freely, well, you have ruled out this and can go about checking the (more expensive) rotors etc.

      About rotors: Wouldn't warped rotors also be noticable when braking heavily?

      Again, just a beginning DIYer's 2 cents...








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    Braking shudder. 200

    posted by  Lummer57 on  Mon May 14 02:05 CST 2007
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    last visit: Thu Oct 28 03:22 CST 2010
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    Sounds like rotors/discs need either turning or replacing. If so probably best to just replace rather then turn as there just not be much thickness left anyway. Also could be wheels/tires need to be balanced but as you say it only happens when braking so this leads me to think discs/rotors.
    --
    ' 86 manual sedan nearly 200,000 and ' 87 auto sedan about 120,000








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    Braking shudder. 200

    posted by  Lummer57 on  Mon May 14 02:05 CST 2007
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    last visit: Thu Oct 28 03:22 CST 2010
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    Sounds like rotors/discs need either turning or replacing. If so probably best to just replace rather then turn as there just not be much thickness left anyway. Also could be wheels/tires need to be balanced but as you say it only happens when braking so this leads me to think discs/rotors.
    --
    ' 86 manual sedan nearly 200,000 and ' 87 auto sedan about 120,000







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