None of which seem to address the real problem here.

Sounds like the car is not charging the battery! Therefore, the car will start and run just fine off the battery for a while, and gradually wears it down. Then you decide the battery's bad, and toss in a new one. Lo and behold, it works... for a while. Must have been the battery! Not necessarily so.

If you're gonna troubleshoot this yourself, you'll need at least a multimeter (voltmeter). Sears sells a nice little red one for $20, as low as $10 on sale last year. Radio Shack, and I'm certain many other places sell similarly priced cheap meters. Go buy one. You're here to save money, and you're going to do it by spending a little money and probably a lot of time troubleshooting.

My guess is the alternator wiring is trashed, or possibly the brushes are worn to the point of not working. The car is 20 years old, so stuff like this is gonna happen and needs to be addressed. Inspect the wiring at the back of the alternator. I know, the filter's in the way. Use a little mirror if you need to, or pull the oil filter off. There's a small red wire, a large red wire, and on the bottom, a blue ground wire. May have a red part ID tag on the wire.

All 3 wires in good shape? The ground wire must be solidly attached to the frame too, on a bolt that goes straight into the block right under the alternator. You'd need to look at it from underneath with the splash pan removed to see it clearly, but you need to make sure it's there.

The small wire is especially subject to damage. It starts at the alternator on a small push-on or ring terminal, and ends at the 8-pin grey firewall connector. It goes through hell on its way there, under the pulley and up through the intake manifold area. Many of these cars, almost all the ones I've owned, have had this wire re-routed across the firewall, through the RF strut tower, and down the ignition harness to the alternator. IMHO if Volvo had done this simple step, there would have been about 40% fewer problems with 240s.

If you find it's crusty, bare, frayed, broken, then try splicing and routing a new wire like that. There's only one red one at the grey connector, and if the harness is bad, you can just cut it off and leave it so it's not touching anything. Splice the new wire to it near the grey connector- don't cut it so short that it can't be fixed one more time.

OK, got that meter? We need to check battery voltage. Should be 12.6 V with the car off. May drop to 12V but it definitely will not run if it's lower than 10, during cranking. Get the car to start. Jump-start it if needed. Find out what the running voltage is, again measured across battery terminals. Should increase from 12-something to at least 13.8, better yet 14.3 +/- 0.2V.

Rev the engine and see if it comes up a bit. Turn on lights and see if it drops just a bit. If it's not over 12.6 V, the battery is NOT being charged, and the alternator needs work. If this is the case, unhook the battery, maybe remove it and charge it with a charger or jumper cables to another car. At the very least disconnect one battery cable to isolate it.

The alternator has a 13mm locking nut on the adjuster, a pivot bolt underneath with usually a 12mm bolt and a 13mm nut, and 8mm and 10mm nuts on the wire connections. DO NOT disconnect the big red wire before you unhook the battery! You'll probably also have to back off the loooong 10mm adjusting bolt quite a ways to get the belts clear. There are two belts on it and the water pump, right?

Ok, once the alt is out, the regulator/brush holder can be removed from the back. Use PB Blaster on all the bolts, they tend to be stiff. A new brush pack with regulator is about $30. An alternator shop usually does a rebuild for about $100-125. Mainly they replace this thing and check the bearings. They do test the windings and other stuff, I don't mean to knock the shops.

Ok, assume you straighten all this out. Now, make the car start and run reliably. Replace the 25A white fuseholder right behind the battery (do this with the battery disconnected or removed!) Thats the main fuel injection fuse. They're always crusty and they're only $3 or $4 from Volvo or FCP.

Replace the fuel pump relay (under dash, right side, clipped to firewall). Should have a date code. If it's over 6 yrs old, I'd say it's suspect. Swap it out and keep one in the glovebox.

On this car, other than timing belt service, there's very little that will leave you stuck besides these items. Your car does not have a crank sensor, and the engine computer and ignition computer are thankfully just about bulletproof. Highly unlikely for either to go bad; leave any shop that tells you it's a computer problem in an 87. 89-up cars, yes. 85-88 cars, never.

Post back with results and we can help you more. Good luck with it!
--
::: Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244 ::: 90 745GL ::: 90 745T ::: 84 242DL ::: 90 745T Parts ::: Used to have : 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 91 244, 88 244GL, 88 744GLE, 82 245T, 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 245DL, 89 244DL!

OOPS !!!!!!!!!

I forgot the Main Ignition Fuse Holder could be the problem.

On that year there is a single Spade Fuse (like in the newer cars) in a Fuse Holder under the Hood.

It's located on the Drivers Side near the very edge of the Fender and Hood opening about 1 to 1.5 feet back from the Headlight. You'll see a fairly heavy Red Wire coming off the Posative Battery Cable Clamp that goes to a small Power Distribution Block (little flat thing with a black plastic cover, looks a little like a pack of matches).

Either next this or very near it you'll find this in-line Fuse Holder. It would look like a small round barrel in the middle of a wire as you're used to with tube type fuses. The two wires (I think red) go into the same side of this white plastic thing that has a Spade Fuse in the other side. The white plastic may have discolored from heat and age to tan, brown, dark brown, black, or charred depending on how bad the connection has gotten.

As it sits on the edge of the Fender everything that can drip around the Hood will drip into this Fuse Holder.

When this degrades and there's increased Resistance on this Fuse it gets hot and that causes increased Resistance and further degradation or an intermittant Open circuit causing a "no run" condition.

When you pull the Battery Cable you're probably flexing the Harness just enough to get it operational for a time.

IPD sells a replacement/ upgrade kit that's excellent.

When I did mine I put it in a slightly different location just in case.

If you're going to sort of shotgun this without much troubleshooting, do this.

1 - check, clean and tighten everything in the Fuse Box

2 - toss in a new or nice used Fuel Pump Relay and Crank Position Snesor (clock sensor)

3 - toss in a used Air Mass Meter (AMM) identify yours by the Bosch number on it


If you don't have these parts in a box somewhere from your trips to the junk yard then you need to make some trip to the junk yard.


These three items are generally cheap at a junk yard and easy to swap in and out. The Fuse Panel is notorious for have cranky whiney problems so dress it up and do maintenance on it every year or so. If there's no power through the Fuel Pump Relay, there's no Fuel. If there's no crank rotation and posiyion signal from the Crank Sensor there's no reason, motion or 'timing' to fire a Fuel Injector or the Ignition Coil. Similary, if there's a whacked out AMM output the fuel management doesn't know what to do.

The AMM can often do this sort of thing. I have one in my box that makes a 240 do what yours is doing. I have another that will start and idle like a dream but stalls at the tiniest RMP above idle.

Speaking of this, your Throttle Assembly has to be CLEAN and the Throttle Position Sensor has to be properly adjusted (Engine off you'll hear it click at just the tiniest fraction of a milimeter off Idle/ Home Position.

Not that I think it's either the AMM or Throttle Position Sensor is the likely problem. Just an additional bit of information.


The Fuel Pump's "health" can be checked for Resistance and Continuity with the car off and the Plug disconnected. You can also check operational health by puting your multimeter in Series with the Fuel Pump and checking hw may Amps it draws during operation (once the cars running again).


Good luck !!

I've not read the other posts, but I'll guess that you have already gotten good advice on checking and cleaning ground connections.

I can tell you that when the fuel pump relay failed in my '91, it was quirky as heck for months, with constantly changing symptoms that defied my best attempts at systematic diagnosis.

In contrast, when the transistor failed in my fuel control module in the '90, it failed suddenly and completely. Kaput. That transistor in the fuel control module is the source of ground that closes the fuel pump relay.

If in doubt, get a new relay. If it turns out not to be the problem, it is a good idea to carry a spare anyway.

Suggestion: In your post, try to be more precise (or verbose) in choosing the words to describe the problem, when you say that "it cranks but won't turn over" you are using two terms that many of us use to describe the same thing - that the starter is turning the crankshaft. In your case, where you have suffered from two different problems - both weak cranking and failure to start, it is critical to be clear on the description. (i.e. "engine cranks vigorously, spark looks strong and blue, but engine does not fire at all")

I haven't done any further work on the car yet, will likely have to wait until the weekend when I have free time. I wanted to throw out some mor information to see if this sparks any new thoughts.

Last night my car would once again crank but not turn over, after running fine on Sunday and Monday (until Monday night). I decided to try to replicate the scenario where I replaced the battery and the car started right up after putting a new battery in a few hours later. Last night I disconnected the battery (disconnecting the negative battery terminal cable) and left it disconnected overnight, thinking maybe some sort of electrical charge might need to dissipate. I don't know if this is possible since I'm an electrical idiot, but why not try. I reconnected the battery this morning and it started right up. Tried starting it a third time and it would crank but not turn over. The battery is disconnected right now and I'll try reconnecting it again tonight to see if it starts.

Does this new information make anyone think something different? Thanks again for all the responses so far!

Tom

Tommy,
There are things you have to check before blaming fuel pump relay.
First, very morning if you can start your car right away. It tells you that your relay is good.

Second, if you drive in the hot day for a while. For example, you go to Wal-mart and buy something, after that you are planning to go home and you try several time to start your car. According to my experience with my 88 240, the check valve (the first problem) may be leaking or not completely close, so you do not have enough fuel in the fuel line to keep enough pressure to start you engine. The rubber tube (the second problem) in the fuel tank may be broken, especially when the fuel in the tank is lower than around half (If I remember right) then you will observe the same problem.

I suggest to check relay first (open it up). If you do not see any problems such as those experts just mentioned (below) to you, then think about the check valve or the rubber tube in the fuel tank.

I have experienced all the above problems with my 88 240 (these are very common problems with old Volvo from 87 to 93). After solving these problems, I really enjoy driving my 20 years old Volve. I want to keep it until engine is completely dead (I think another 10 years).

Good Luck

88 Volve Lover

Look man I just went through this on my 82 245. If it the same sending unit and everything and you have power at the top of the pump than it could be the connection at the pump inside the tank that made contact when you gave it a wiggle. Check your main pump fuse in your fuse panel if this fuse is bad neither one of the pumps will work. Next remove the panel again and then remove the hose that has the clamp on it (its the bigger one) pull that off and have your friend crank the motor if the pump is working it will spray fuel like a bugger. Now if its not working I would remove the pump and check the connections down at the bottom. you don't even have to remove it all the way just enough to get your test light down there and test the power and the ground on the pump itself(make sure the key is on. If you get no light than the connection is broken and you have to mcgyver it(hell it beats a new 230 dollar unit).

You see the wires from the top of the unit connect to the pump via these stupid little copper coils, one on either side. They are resistors but the ground side does not need a resistor so if it is broken remove the coil and hook the wire straight to the pump with a small round wire connector then re-check with your light and see what you get. While your in there I would replace the filter sock and the little connector hose just so you don't have to do it later. Hope this gives you some help let us know if you get it fixed.

There are things to try before blaming the relay, although jumping it hot would help rule it out. Are your wires old or cracked? Sometimes the wire from the starter coil to the distributor will ground out against something. The 25A blade fuse referred to in the other post could also be making a bad contact, since the fuse holder sits right up against the wall there.

hope you find the culprit,
voitokas
--
'85 240 wagon, '86 ford pickup

I'm a bit confused with your Post. When you say "Turn Over" do you mean it was Cranking but not Starting or do you mean the Starter wouldn't even turn?

Fuel Pumps: Not true, they can be intermittent. Like Starters, sometimes a rap on the Fuel pump will get it to go.

Someone needs to help me here...Does the '87 have the 25 amp Fuse on the Fender? That too could be your problem. That powers up the Relay.

--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Fuel pump relays are notorious. Search the archives or google for pics showing resoldering relay. Search for Don Foster, he described the problem and solution very well.
Pull some spares from Pick a part, resolder to have on hand.

Hello!

This is my first time answering a post. I hope I'm right.

You can 'bypass' the relay by jumping terminals. I think you would jump #30 to #87 and #87b.

Those terminal numbers should be found stamped on your relay if you disconnect it.

My guess as to the reason that it keeps starting, running for a bit, and then dropping off again is that the relay was not soldered properly. For a few bucks you can get soldering equipment, and fix it to work like it should, if it is the relay. If I can solder, ANYBODY can.

Good luck!