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1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

posted by  MLMSYSTEMS on  Fri Apr 27 14:39 CST 2007
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last visit: Fri Dec 7 04:00 CST 2007
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Hi all.

About a year ago, I bought an P1800E. The cosmetics of the vehicle where behond beleif. Absolutly beautiful in every way. The Drive train was different. It did run but like a bucket of crap.

Anyway to cut to the chase. I have totally rebuilt the whole thing. I mean everything, all the brakes, engine, transmission and dif.

Only problem is (think I have mucked something up). She starts fine but revs really high (Have checked for vacuum leaks - cannot find) Although when you block the hose going to the engine (Its called a starter valve I think) it does reduce. Changed that part - no difference.

Also and I feel this is the true problem all the electricals seem a bit mucked up. Everthing worked before indicators, tacho etc. Now nothing essentially works except headlights and brakes.

Has anybody done 1 of these rebuilds and can think of something that must be really obvious, and staring me right in the eye that I have clearly missed ?

Nearly forgot...to mention. With the tacho not working - Also had distributor modified to breakerless points. But I did not think that would effect. after all the tacho should just connect to the negative of the coil...right ?

By the way I am an eletronics engineer. Have studied the circuit diagram pretty well. It all "looks" pretty right.

Any idea's of where to look would be appreaciated.

Thanks - Mike.








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    1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

    posted by  Phil S. on  Sat Apr 28 04:58 CST 2007
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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    after all the tacho should just connect to the negative of the coil...right ?

    Noooo... it goes in series. The trigger to the coil negative goes through the tach -- it's inductive, not voltage-sensing.








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      1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

      posted by  MLMSYSTEMS on  Sun Apr 29 16:48 CST 2007
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      last visit: Fri Dec 7 04:00 CST 2007
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      Phil

      Thanks for that...OK thats probably the reason the Tach is not working.

      Traced the wires back...They are not connected !

      That will do it :)

      OK...found the other end (Engine bay) - There is a red wire and white wire.

      That is in accordance with a doco I found...But no one seams to give a circuit for connection of this "so called revolution counter".

      Any idea where the 2 wires actually connect ?

      Mike








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        1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

        posted by  Phil S. on  Mon Apr 30 06:33 CST 2007
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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        The trigger output of your breakerless conversion doesn't go directly to the coil -- it goes to the white tach wire. The other tach wire into the engine bay (I should this as being orange) hooks to the coil negative. That puts the tach in series with the coil trigger signal.

        The red wires to the tach are lighting (as I'm sure you've seen), and there's a green wire to the voltage stabilizer (regulated 10V supply). I remember there being a black ground that goes between one of the two mounting clamps and the knurled knob that fastens it.








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          1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

          posted by  MLMSYSTEMS on  Tue May 1 17:06 CST 2007
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          last visit: Fri Dec 7 04:00 CST 2007
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          OK the Tach is now working fine...

          What I had to do was remove the wire from the breakerless ignition that was connected to the negative of the coil. connect to the white wire from the tacho, then connect the red wire from the tacho back to the negative of the coil. (In other words a Phil correctly stated - In series).

          As an update now I know what else is happening...Just for the life of me cannot figure out why.

          Removed all the injectors and fitted now rubbers and seals, including the little "O" rings and fibre washer under the mounts...

          She is still revving her brains out....

          Now that I can the the Tacho - Just a smidge over 3000 RPM







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            1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

            posted by  Phil S. on  Wed May 2 04:43 CST 2007
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            last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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            The ONLY thing that can cause very high idle is unwanted air getting into the intake manifold. It could be from any number of places. One trap is reversing the hoses for the crankcase ventilation and the brake booster -- the crankcase vents to the restricted fitting on the manifold.

            Check that, for a start...








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              1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

              posted by  MLMSYSTEMS on  Wed May 2 12:34 CST 2007
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              last visit: Fri Dec 7 04:00 CST 2007
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              As usual Phil was correct - But I cannot understand why. I tok literly hundreds of photo's as I dismantled - every single little wire and all the hoses, leads etc.

              I have the original leads and I went and bought a new section of heater hose. The original was not even long enough !!!!

              Changed over (reversed the crankcase) heater hoses. She is now purring like a pussy cat !

              Thanks Phil & others that contributed.

              Regards Mike







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    1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

    posted by  Ron Kwas on  Sat Apr 28 03:05 CST 2007
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 04:03 CST 2014
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    Mike;

    Just because you can't find a vacuum leak, doesn't mean there isn't one...fact is that the engine can ONLY rev high if it supplied air...either by an open throttle OR by a vacuum leak...and the later can simply be verified in that you put it into gear and try to drive away...if it sputters and dies (due to the lean mixture) I suggest you keep looking for the source of false air!...and by the injector seals as other poster says is a good start. Check also cold start thermal valve on head...it bypasses throttle...maybe sticking open...

    ...ground strp is certainly important, but I fail to see what it has to do with this...and if it was not in place it would cause more that the tach not to work...check power to tach first...otherwise, check for enough trigger signal from the electronic IGN. You might check this with an oscilloscope.

    Good Hunting!








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    1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

    posted by  Redwood Chair on  Fri Apr 27 18:02 CST 2007
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    last visit: Tue Feb 25 21:29 CST 2014
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    Is the ground strap on the engine?
    --
    69-145-S ; 71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES ; 87-245-DL








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      1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

      posted by  MLMSYSTEMS on  Fri Apr 27 19:01 CST 2007
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      last visit: Fri Dec 7 04:00 CST 2007
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      Yes ground strap is definetly on....You mean the "braded" one from the transmission to the engine and then battery to engine. Yes checked that.







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        Shouldn't there be one to the chassis of the car? (nmi) 1800 1970

        posted by  someone claiming to be hudson on  Sat Apr 28 04:53 CST 2007 [RELATED]








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    1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

    posted by  yellowbricktoad on  Fri Apr 27 15:32 CST 2007
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    last visit: Sat Mar 23 10:03 CST 2013
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    I had the same thing happen to me after a rebuild when I put the wrong o-ring seals under the injector holders. The one set looks to be the same diameter but is the wrong thickness giving you a massive vacuum leak, hence the extremely high idle. It also made the exhaust header glow red hot-meaning a REALLY lean mixture. If not those o-rings check for other vacuum leaks-PCV hose,power brake unit,etc.
    Good luck & let us know.

    Mike M.








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      1800E problems after rebuild. 1800 1970

      posted by  MLMSYSTEMS on  Fri Apr 27 18:59 CST 2007
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      last visit: Fri Dec 7 04:00 CST 2007
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      Mnnn...Now thats an intresting thought, because yes...I did put new injectors in. Yes the exhuast header is also definetly over hot as well. Well worth checking. Thanks for that thought. Will check and advise.







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