My new issue. After replacing many parts I have a knocking in the left front. It may have started ages ago to a degree but is really bad now. I replaced the struts and springs as well as bushings on the stabilizer bar. Because of the noise I then did the front wheel bearings. Finally I did the ball joints. Still bad knocking. My theory is that the front strut mount (the rubber thingy at the top with a bearing inside) is spanked. I say this because when I popped the top off I can see major dry rot. I also shook the strut tower when the vehicle was raised and got some noise. Am I correct in my thinking? If so does it really matter if I order the Meyle for $45 from FCP or the cheaper URO? Appreciate all feedback to this new issue!
Matt

I once had, in an '80 I once had, a knocking that turned out to be the deteriorating bushings in the cup-like retainer held with three little bolts against the bottom of the firewall. The bushings support the rear, long extension of the A-arm or control arm (as I call it) -- whenever I ran over a bump, the "A-arm" is slammed rearward (as well as upward) and it banged!

I hope you recognize the parts I was describing -- pardon me if my terminology wasn't quite on the mark, though :-).

Anyway, keep this in mind if you don't find the answer in the more usual suspects.

If the knock got worse right after you did the work, I would say it's more likely that you finished off a worn rear a-arm bushing if you did not loosen the a-arm fasteners and pushed the a-arm down so that the strut could clear the fender. Did you force it down with your foot, or did you loosen the front and rear fasteners so that the bushings could move freely as you moved the a-arm past its normal range of motion to clear the fender? I once did this without loosening the a-arm fasteners, finishing off a bushing that "looked fine." I ended up with a nice loud knock. Replacing the rear a-arm bushings took care of the problem.

I don't think the top strut bearing assembly would suddenly start knocking after replacing struts because the strut-replacement procedure doesn't really stress the top strut bearing assembly much.
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Thanks for all the help. DougC 1981 242, Turbo bars and wheels, M46 ----------- 1993 245, B230 NA L-Block, M46, Turbo bars.

The knocking (clunking) is probably from a failed rear control arm bushing. Pretty easy if you use poly bushings. Dan

Ordered new urethane bushings. I'm figuring you all are right and I may have tweaked the old ones putting in new struts. I think I can feel the knocking if I press my left foot hard on the floor as I drive which would be the Control arm. I think I feel it anyway. I'll let ya'll know in a few days how it goes.

Thanks Again!
Matt

Hmmm, will check that out. Mine as well replace those too. :)