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dumb question #1,000,004 D!@#$%%^^ search engine 120-130

ok clutch adjustment question.
just replaced the engine and like a good boy replaced the clutch while i was down there as well.
if my clutch engages real close to the floor and grabs immediatly upon releasing the pedal do i need to adjust the nuts on the rod coming out of the slave-cylinder towards the clutch arm or turn the nuts towards the slave-cylinder?
i know this is a pretty simple question that i could answer laying under my car fairly quick, but i'm sure there's one or two guys who could save me the aggravation of having to crawl under there more times than is necessary.
thanx in advance.








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    dumb question #1,000,004 D!@#$%%^^ search engine 120-130

    Think about it. If the pedal is not pushing it far enough, you need to
    adjust it to where it pushes further.... Too much play in the rod.
    (spring loading by the external spring doesn't count here!)
    The rod should usually be just snug so that you can turn it but not move it
    hardly any endwise.
    --
    George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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      dumb question #1,000,004 D!@#$%%^^ search engine 120-130

      well i did think about it, and what you're saying is what i came up with as well, but i just wanted it confirmed so i didn't need to crawl under more times than necessary (if i did it wrong the first time). thanx.








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    ANSWER dumb question #1,000,004 D!@#$%%^^ search engine 120-130

    You need to adjust it "out" towards the rear of the car to extend the range of the pushrod.

    One warning though. I did this myself and swapped in the good clutch from my original B20E but I was using a B18 clutch housing for the hydraulic clutch and then I discovered that I had only 1" of clutch at the bottom of the pedal with maximum adjustment... it was a different type clutch plate. I ended up removing the engine engine and M41 to swap the old plate and clutch back in....

    Worked out okay in the end and I got some extra engine swap practice.

    This post has been marked as an answer to the original question.








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      dumb question #1,000,004 D!@#$%%^^ search engine 120-130

      You might have had the wrong throwout bearing. That will do that. You can
      use any plate/clutch combo if you have the right throwout bearing.
      --
      George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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        Bearing Fun 120-130

        Yeah, that was probably the case, but of the three throwout bearings I had, none were any larger. 'course I didn't even consider trying the bearing from the cable-clutch housing, I just assumed that it wouldn't fit...

        I did swap the clutch itself for a less-worn unit from my spares, but I reinstalled the original plate so that the known working bearing and known working spring plate were back together. It all worked out in the end.

        Although this was when I fried my Head Gasket by not getting enough coolant into the new motor... One's first engine swap can be pretty tricky...








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          Bearing Fun 120-130

          ALL engine swaps can be tricky. Seems like there's always ONE more *&&#$%% thing!
          --
          George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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            Amen to that! 120-130

            Having just completed my first swap I felt like I found just about every hitch I could have. 3 hour job in theory. I guess that is how we learn.

            Luckily no damage to anything; I know what to look out for and the quirks of my equipment.

            All said the new (70,000 mile) B18B and M40 run world's better than my old setup. You don't really know how bad something has become sometimes.

            Lighter clutch, engine pulls with traffic, much more smooth and no more double clutching.. Drives like a regular car. The new tranny mount even has my shifter well clear of the seats now.

            Only issue it I have an uneven idle even after valve adjustment and carb tuning. Not horrible but I can hear some misfires.

            I'm thinking distributor or coil, deep tuning of carbs (remove, clean, re-tune), and possibly worn cam.

            Need to spend some time on the house before I track that down but the car is much more pleasant all said.








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              Amen to that! 120-130

              Check for vacuum leax.
              Also check valve lift to see if all valves lift the same amount.
              If they do that pretty much exonerates the cam.
              Throttle shafts tight?
              --
              George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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                Amen to that! 120-130

                Thanks George.

                I'll start tracking it down as time permits and probably post a call for suggestions.

                The SU's are ZTherapy with the needle bearings so should be no leaks there, guess I should check anyway.

                I have enough parts laying around now to replace pretty much anything that could be a problem and it is running pretty decent. But there is definitely something amiss and with gas around $3/gal I want the car burning as efficiently as possible.

                To be continued...







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