It sounds like you have an unusual problem with the gauge.
By measuring 10V on the yellow wire with it disconnected from the sender, you've seemingly verified the wiring all the way through the gauge (there's no temp comp board in an 83) to the voltage stabilizer. The gauge is operated by heated bimetal, so is about as reliable as a Toyota.
The voltmeter test does not prove there isn't a gob of corrosion that is part of the wiring path back to the gauge, because the voltmeter doesn't draw enough current to flag a defect like that. If water leaks inside the car, back of the cluster, there may be a problem like that on the circuit board or at the round plug where the yellow wire comes in. Also look for the same type of problem on the rainy side of the firewall, where the gray plug is. Yellow wire again.
If you are familiar with your meter to measure current, you could look for 200 mA measured between sender terminal (motor warm) and yellow wire. If much, much less, then you are fighting a high resistance corroded connection in the circuit. If in the ballpark, you've got no choice but to remove the cluster and have a look at why the gauge needle is stuck.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Be nice to your kids. They will choose your nursing home one day.
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