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This is in answer to the posts I Called Just plain Stupidity. Ok here is basics. 1979 242 GT B21F, manual tranny. Rebuilt head, installed, started and it went to H on temp. Did not have it pressure checked.. Tried all the suggestions you guys gave. It was not sending unit. It still could be gauge, later on that. Now the biggie. I replaced the thermostat when I rebuilt head due to not having one there from the PO. Today I took the hoses off and flushed the radiator and block. MUD water was what I call it. Anyway I have clean water. Noticed upper hose not hot near radiator and lower only hot near water pump inlet. Took out thermostat, water now flows but it is still getting a little hot. The gauge now reads between N and H. Is this normal for these engines? They do not have a comp board. Is it possible for the waterpump to be going out, causing the restriction at the thermostat? Also the fan clutch seems a bit weak. I would like to know how to pull the speedo cluster to check voltage regulator on gauges. I have removed the steering covers, and the two screws at the bottom of the cluster assembly. I thought it just pulled out from the bottom but I can not get it to go anywhere. Now remember it is different than a leter model, it only has two screws at the bottom as far as I know. Any help will be greatly appericated..Thanks,,Max
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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I removed the brand new thermostat. Leaving it out, the water flows. I did this; I left the top hose off the rad., Water flows except when I rev the engine, then the water stops for several seconds and then flows again, a little stronger at first. Then just the same steady flow. I left the garden hose in the top radiator hole to keep water in it. So is there still a possibility of the water pump being bad? No noise or leaks at pump. I will replace thermo tomorrow and see if it gets hot. It is staying exactly between the N and the H, that is without a thermostat. I was in the middle of this when Leno came on with Jib Jab,,Laughed so hard I can hardly see the screen..Anyway, is there a real pressure check that can be performed on the waterpump? Like it puts out X amount of pressure through the system??Thanks again all. you have been great..Max
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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I've heard of water pumps having their impellers corroded away so they hardly pump any water. Also can happen that the pump shaft decouples from the impeller, partially or completely. I think maybe your've got one or both of these situations.
Sorry I haven't read the other posts in this thread, could be that someone else already covered these possibilities.
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.
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You have two problems. One is that the water is not circulating.
You NEED to have a good thermostat because when you don't part of the
cooling system is short-circuited. When the stat opens it blocks off
the short circuit (the tube that sticks up directly below it).
But the thermo may or may not be the reason why the water doesn't circulate.
Get a good one in there and then see if the radiator hose gets hot when it
opens. If not, it didn't open. You can test it by boiling in a pan of water.
If it circulates but slowly you MIGHT need a new water pump but all mine have
suffered bearing and seal failure (noise followed by leakage) first.
You should test the water temp with a thermometer when the engine is hot and
see what the temp REALLY is. If your gas gauge is reading high and your temp
is reading hot that kinda points a finger at the regulator that controls both
of them, as others pointed out. Once you know how far they are off you can
sorta work with that.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Wed Mar 28 15:01 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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By the way Max, where are you located. I'm near DC/Balt
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CB...TN...
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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Max:
Keep in mind that I haven't worked on the older 240s, so I am extrapolating a bit here. Ran into a similar situation with a 65 Ford 390 motor... full of coolant mud. Flushed out the engine with a hose, had the radiator tanked at a rad shop along with a tiny patch. Put it all back together and the sucker still overheated. Lower and upper hoses were "hot" near the engine but cold at the rad (no thermostat during this test).
Finally pulled the water pump and removed its backing plate to see the impeller (different design that a Volvo). The cast iron impeller blades had corroded to the point over the years that at best they were 1/16th of an inch tall, beyond that, the impeller could be spun on the shaft with minimal effort. Yeah toast!
Replaced the water pump and all was good, even after installing a thermostat. A few weeks later, one of the freeze plugs finally rusted through on the block and the coolant drained out. This is probably not a concern for you as the Volvo freeze plugs are about three times thicker... but it is a thought.
Good luck Max!
jorrell
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Wed Mar 28 13:14 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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some help. The fuel/temp gauge on these oldsters had a resitor type compensator. On the back of the board there is a brass module with blade connectors. You can pull this off and by bending back the tabs on the cover, look inside. If it's the original is has a wound wire type resistor...this was "updated" to a solid state resistor, same brass cover.
One year after the bianual flush and coolant change on my 80, I had a coincidental failure of this resistor...so when I started up with the new coolant...into the red zone!. Had me scratching my head for quite a bit.
I haven't had the cluster out for years, but I seem to remember it has 2 or three plastic spring type clips along the top as part of the assembly that snap it into the dash... so you've got to sort of reach back and push down on the top at the same time you're as pushing on the bottom...from behind.
I think rpr still sell the module
http://rprusa.com/
Why oh why don't they make 240s anymore :(
75 245(RIP), 80 244 M45 226K, 87 245 M47 172K
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Thanks I will try reaching back.. Hope my arms are flexible... Will let you know. I am really suspicious of the regulator, as the fuel gauge says I have 3/4 tank of gas. It has less than 4 gallons in it. Thanks again all...
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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Max:
Just remember that the gauge issue may or may not be separate, but I can assure you it can't prevent proper coolant flow between the engine and rad. I am basing this on your comment about the hose(s) being hot near the engine but cool at the rad.
jorrell
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92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Wed Mar 28 14:49 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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bad readings from both guages can sometimes be cured by simply slacking and then retightening the small mounting nuts on the back of the PC board.
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While true an intermittent or low reading might be fixed by retightening the gauge nuts, a high one won't. It sure is possible the gauge regulator is stuck, if it is the old mechanical type that works by heating a bimetal contact. To see if the regulator is working, turn the ignition on, pull the yellow wire off of the gauge sender on the head and measure the voltage at the wire's terminal. If a steady 10V, you have the new solid state replacement version (looks the same as CB mentioned) but if you have a pulsing battery level voltage, you are watching the mechanical regulator do its thing. If you have full battery voltage and it is not pulsing, your regulator, mech or otherwise, is stuck, making both gauges read too high.
--
-K (hope springs eternal)
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I indeed have the old bimetal mechanical regulator. This car has never been serviced other than change the oil. I looked today and low and behold it is the original. And it is malfunctioning. The heated metal, I guess, has gotten weak. Will replace it as soon as the dealer gets one in. Thanks for all the help..Max
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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That's a most informative post on the "Gold Bug".
Thumbs up.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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